Chef Daniel Angerer's Blog

WHAT MAKES A DISH SING!

I come across this mental question often. Why do I love certain foods?
What makes a particular classic dish delicious and why has it sustained years on menus and the recipe was handed over from generation to generation already. Why do critis rave about these dishes?

Mental debate
See, for me as a chef it is not easy as – “I just like it.” I have to know why a dish is delicious. The flavor combination has to make sense to me. That is when the mental debate starts:
A. What are the individual ingredients of that recipe?
B. Is it creamy, crunchy, crispy, citrusy, fatty, prickley. Does it make my tongue numb or is  it soft, or chewy? It might be even stinky, or just fragrant. Does it make my mouth feel  hot or cool?

Favorite Dessert
When my spouse and I go for dinner we often try to guess each other’s dessert selection she always is right when there is tiramisu on the menu because for sure that will be my dessert for the evening. I worship that Italian classic and I am willing to “travel” out of my neighborhood for a good variation on this classic.

Let’s do the twist
Most of the time I like to change the recipe of a classic dish. So - the question comes to mind when does an added ingredient to a well know food “favorite” become an distraction or when is it a welcome addition to the already delicious dish?
So what makes this tiramisu sing? A creamy layer of house-made mascarpone between crunchy, nutty twice baked almond cake layers (I also did one version with a blackberry-nut cake layer – delicious).

A classic tiramisu recipe I dug out of an old Italian cook book wanted me to whip egg yolks with sugar over steam to the ribbon stage (this is the stage the eggs yolks are partially cooked and someone can see ribbon streaks when whisking)
For my version I  decided not to add eggs. I find the house-made mascarpone rich enough already and I did not want to have a partially cooked egg yolk in my dessert for safety reasons.
The question arises can I call my version tiramisu? We decided - as long as the flavors are the same like a traditonel tiramisu we can call it that. We will see what the response is when I serve it as a dessert amuse bouche to some of my regular customers…

My version of Tiramisu
Mascarpone:
You can make your own mascarpone it’s not that difficult.
Heat pasteurized heavy cream (4 cups) to 180 degrees Fahrenheit, then add tartaric acid (1/4-teaspoon). Continously stirring cook the mixture for four minutes, then put it in a container and refrigerate it (3 hours).
At this point the cooked mixture curdles (thickenes significantly).
Poure mixture into a cheesecloth lined basket, put a container under the basket to catch any excessive liquid (whey). Whey is quit healthy.
Store the mascarpone filled basket in the refrigerator overnight (8-10 hours).
Sweeten mascarpone with honey to taste.

Almond ladyfingers:
Sugar, eggs, ground almonds, melted butter, all purpose flour (measure each 18 ounces).
Whip egg and sugar over steam to ribbon stage (see explanation for ribboon stage above) then add ground almonds, melted butter and flour.
Bake in preheated oven in cake mold (I used 18x13x1-inch sized, square) for 40 minutes @ 325 degress Fahrenheit (or a cake tester is clean when pierced in middle of cake). Cool cake then cut into half inch thick pieces, then lay out on sheet pan and bake at 250 degress Fahrenheit for 30 minutes.

Coffee: I brewed fresh espresso (6 espressos) and mixed it with Kahluha (2 shoots) (Mexiacan coffee falvored liqueur with vanilla) instead of tratidionaly Marsala (Marsala is aged in wooden caskes. A fortified wine similar to port wine).

Assembly: Brush the almond-ladyfingers with little of the espresso/Kahluha mix then pipe (pastry bag) the honey sweetened mascarpone on it and sandwich it with a layer of almond-ladyfingers. A few dots of mascarpone cream and espresso dust finishes the chef’s tiramisu.

The question remains - what makes a chef sing? It’s probably the kaffeine in the espresso!

THE SYMPHONY OF COOKING - WHAT DOES AN EXECUTIVE CHEF DO?

Many guests ask my front of the house staff “Is chef cooking tonight?” The answer is “yes I am.”  This certainly does not mean that I cook every meal in the house but let’s face it as a chef  I am orchestrating my kitchen from A to Z whether I want to or not.
  
("Is chef cooking tonight")

Spoon or Baton?
I visited a Mozart festival this past week and listened to an orchestra of 40 musicians playing violin, cello, clarinette, trumpet, drums, piano and so on.
The conductor was a bundle of energey making almost loops in the air. He did a masterful job in directing the orchestra - it seemed immaculate. The concert scenario was familiar because it is certainly comparable to the daily kitchen life. The conductor’s wavy baton movements came close to mine with my favorite large spoon (which sometimes flies in the direction of a line cook to get his attention.  I did not see this happen on stage at the concert).
 
(chef's baton)

Is the Conductor in Tonight?
A conductor acts as a metronome to the orchestra much like a chef conducts his kitchen staff. When the kitchen is well orchestrated a dish will come to the kitchen bus just like the “composer” of the piece directed it. A chef has to be an encourager like a conductor to make the members of the orchestra play their best whether they want to or not, whether they are tired, hot or played that piece 20 times this week.  Each time it must sing and flourish because for every guest it is their singular experience that counts. 

Tasty Music!
“Maestro”  Eric Weiss invited me to participate in an event called “The Taste of Music the Sound of Food and Wine” at the Steinway Hall Rotunda.
Champagne was freely flowing for a selected group of connoisseurs. A pianist played classical pieces by Mozart, Bethoven, Hayden and Strauss.  My role in the act was to create a culinary course inspired by or complementing each musical piece. Towards the end of the evening live Blues entertained the crowd for dessert.

Musical Foods
Thinking about the comparisons of food and music I noted how many foods or culinary tools are named for music or instruments …
bell pepper
Champagne flute
 
chicken drum sticks
dinner bells (using music to signify the beginning of a meal, or in a diner when the food is up)
mandolin (an essential kitchen “instrument” for slicing vegetables and fruits paper thin)
opera cake (a layer cake)
organ meats  (okay, maybe for innards but still…)
trumpet mushroom
tuning fork (music borrowing from food!)
spaghetti “a la chitarra” (for the harp-like instrument used to make these square elongated noodles)
 
Can you think of more?

 
(Viennese Sacher torte with poprocks)
For a more pleasurable sound sensation try adding poprocks (the favorite childhood explosive candy) to unexpected dishes.  Not only does it create a great mouth sensation but the crackle in your ear is a delight. 

Chef’s Tip:  Fyi “slurping” your soup does not count as “music” during your meal! 

 

DECADENCE IN A SALAD

Summer Heat
I realize when the gym gets less and less crowded towards the weekends I realize its August. The heat is brutal during the day and lots of  people are on vacation. Beach food anybody? 
 
(beach side cooking - grilled sea bream stuffed with lemon)
 
Girlyman
Although I am not a lettuce and field green guy I can appreciate a well prepared salad with fresh ingredients. I am talking about decadent lobster salad. Many people don’t think of it as a salad but lets face it this is a salad for the not-so-many-greens eater.

I dig lobster roll-salad
When time allows in the peak of summer we escape the city. We usually go beach side.  Everybody in the family seems to have a different place in minde where to get “their” favorite lobster roll. At least we have some sort of understanding which is that everybody agrees that they don’t agree to go to one particular place to eat lobster rolls. The simple solution for my folks is that I prepare lobster rolls to their specific needs. Since I dig lobster rolls not a bad thing thou. 
 
(small bite lobster roll)

My lobster roll
1. I prefer to use small lobsters (around 1 pound). Generously calculate one lobster per person.  Bring a large pot of water to boil (I cook four lobsters in about 1 ½ gallons of water). No need  to add salt.
2. Put lobsters head side first into the boiling water then shut the heat off.
3. Once the lobster has steeped in the hot water for 10 minutes transfer to a bowl and rinse with  cold water.
4. When cool enough to handle twist lobster tail off (hold one hand around lobster tail and the  other hand on lobster body and twist). Line your palm with a kitchen towel then put the   lobster tail in your hand (curved outside shell facing your palm) break lobster tail shell by  closing your hand palm (like you would make a fist) then peel shell of. You can  use also  kitchen sicssors to cut tail shell off. Put lobster claw and knuckle into a folded-in-half kitchen  towel and give it a hard whack with the back of a heavy knife or another heavy object like a  mallet. Unfold the cracked lobster claws and knuckles then break  shells from lobster meat (I  find kitchen sicssors helpful to get all the shells of the lobster knuckles). Discard shells or use  for other purpose.
5. I like to cut the lobster in large chunks (1-inch pieces) and then I mix it with cut green celery  stalks (1/8-inch sized dice) for crunch. As long the lobster is of good quality meaning plump  and sweet in flavor I suggest adding a minimal amount of mayonnaise (2 tablespoons for four  1-pound lobsters. I use Hellmans-style mayonaise when I cook for my family).
6. My lobster roll mix gets a touch of sea salt and cayenne and the juice of one fresh lime  brightens the flavor.
7. A top loading  bun (pan, butter-toasted on its two sides) is a must. I think that is the  difference between good and great. 

You can get excellent quality Maine lobster at The lobster Place directly shipped to your door steps. 

 

HOT CHICKS!

A crispy layer over hot, moist and succulent tender chicken.
Who would have thought that fried chicken is en vogue again. I must admit
I have had a fried chicken weakness for quite a while. We have had it on our menu at Klee since day one. It brings memories back of “Wienerwald” (Austrian for Vienna forest) a chain restaurant. I devoured their fried chicken  when I was a kido it compares to … lets say fancy KFC (Kentucky Fried Chicken). They call it “Backhendl” (Austrian for fried chicken) in my  old country.
The fried chicken is a highlight on the Monday menu of my restaurant. You can be sure that up to 40% of the evening guests munch on a plate of “Viennese fried chicken” on Mondays. Actually it was one of  the winnning dishes we prepared on the Iron Chef Show against Boby Flay. It became a singature dish since then. Every Monday I allow myself a little morsel of the golden crispy chicken, it is delicious. It becomes evident how not fancy simple good food can be. If there is any chicken left (from Monday night) the next day staff-family meal is a big hit.
 
(Popcorn crusted fried chicken, beer spaetzel pasta, velvet spinach)

Size’em?
I have had the best results frying chickens with large birds (around 3 ½ lbs).
- When cutting the chicken in pieces make sure you leave the skin attached (this will prevent  the chicken from drying out).
- Cut chicken into two breast parts and two leg parts. I prefer to take the bones out of the  chicken legs (I feel it is more joyous to saw through the chicken with a knife once fried  without hitting a bone).
- Season chicken breasts and legs with salt and fresh black pepper.

Put a coat on!
- For the crust of the chicken put all purpose flour in a bowl. In a second bowl mix eggs until  well combined. Fill a third bowl with finely ground panko-style bread crumbs (use a food  processor). I prefer to mix the bread crumbs with finely ground popcorn (the ratio I use is half  bread crumbs and half popcorn).
- Place flour, eggs, and bread/popcorn crumb bowls next to each other. Handling chicken parts  one by one dip each part first in flour (shaking off excess flour), then whisked eggs and lastly  into bread/popcorn mix.
- Rest the crusted chicken for twenty minutes in the refrigerator (the moisture of the raw  chicken will bind with the egg, flour, bread crumb/popcorn crust and will form an insulating  crust).

To bake or fry?
If you prefer you can bake the crusted chicken in a 300 degree Fahrenheit oven for some time (45 minutes). But lets not kid ourselves. Frying does wonders!
- Preheat vegetable oil (such as canola oil or grape seed oil) in a shallow pot (11 inch diameter  and at least 6 inches high) to 320 degrees Fahrenheit. The oil should be three inches deep.
- Put chicken parts into preheated oil (use tongues to put chicken into hot oil so you won’t get  burned). The chicken parts should not be crowded in the frying oil (giving them space enables  the chicken parts to brown evenly).
- Fry chicken parts for eleven minutes (chicken should have an internal temperature of 165  degress Fahrenheit when tested in middle/thickest part of chicken with thermometer,  othervise cook longer) . With tongues transfer chicken parts onto a paper towel lined plate (4  layers of paper). Discard greasy paper towels. Repeat until there are no more fat stains on  paper towels anymore.

Leftovers?
Fried chicken leftovers are a joy. Serve it the next day chilled and thinly sliced over butter lettuce.

What else is there?
At its simplest I like to serve fried chicken with preserved lemons (you may substitute lemon wedges). And a side of steamed potatoes with freshly snipped parsley comes close to perfection.
 

 

"CORNY"

Wondering whether the term “corny” has its origin in corn I came across a few definitions saying something that was overused, tired and dead.  Is that what we think of corn?  If so I think it’s because we eat too much of it and we force it on cattle and other animals when they actually have a hard time digesting it.  And we tend to eat corn when it’s not in season – frozen, canned or truck ripened.
 
Misconception
Corn is treated at the table like it’s a vegetable when it’s actually a grain.  In doing so, we expect it to have these glorious nutritional properies like vitamin C, antioxidants or other leafy green qualitites and feel its failing us because it’s a cereal grain – protein, carbs.  You may have realized by reading ingredient lists that corn is as a by-product in thousands of packaged items in an average supermarket. This “filler product” is not the corn I am excited about here. Give corn a break!  Corn has a place and a moment and the moment is now.  EAT IT NOW.  

Young & Fresh
Every year around when summer peaks, fresh, young corn is one of the foods I really look forward to picking up at the market. The other day I saw a little girl gnawing on a fresh piece of corn with her little teeth buried into the juicy corn kernels. I tried one cob myself and was amazed how perfectly milky and flavorful it was. It didn’t need any seasoning or butter.
I bought a good amount of young corn that day and wanted to translate that fresh corn taste into some sort of a recipe. It hadn’t occurred to me to use corn raw, I guess I had plenty of “maiz” off the grill at the occasional street fair or I remember eating baby corn pickled when I was growing up.

Time is taste
The following recipe will be a success when you can get your hands on fresh, young corn which you will recognize by its natural sweetness. The fresher the corn the better since stored (not fresh corn) will change in flavor. The natural sugar content of the kernels converts to starch if stored, which leaves a mealy taste in your mouth. So get cooking right away!
     

Sweet Corn Soup

Shuck it!
- Bring a pot (gallon-sized) of salted water to a boil.
- Peel corn then pull of the hairy pieces (those fine hairs are reffered to as silk).
- With a serrated knife (like you use for cutting bread) cut the kernels from the cob.
- Blanche the corn kernels in the boiling water for half a minute. With a slotted spoon transfer the corn kernels into a food processor (reserve the water). Season with fresh black pepper, salt and roasted garlic.
- Process corn kernels until finely pureed then add corn cooking liquid. Add as much corn cooking liquid as you desire the consistency of the soup to be.
 
(Chilled corn soup with king crab and spicy Japanese radish)

The soup can be served hot or cold. Sprinkle thinly sliced radish wheels and toasted bread croutons into the soup before serving. If you don’t have bread on hand for house-made croutons consider using your unsweetened corn flakes or popcorn.