Chef Daniel Angerer's Blog

BBQ - TO MARINATE OR NOT?

BBQ
To marinate or not?

The 4th of july weekend is around the corner and charred meat, macaroni salad, berry pie and of course beer will be own our porch table. If the meal looks similar in your neck of the woods you might struggle with a question whether to marinade the hunk of meat or not?
 
Many people still think that marinating is tenderizing meats which is only partly the truth.

Certain fungi, plant enzymes and acids do break down muscle, connective proteins in meats and fish. For example papaya contains papain and pienapple contain bromelain. It is available in powdered, refined form commerically. You can use fresh fruits also but don’t use canned products because they won’t work.
These enzymes have the capapbility to “destroy” the connective tissue of the meat hence it will not hold its natural juices as much anymore,  resulting in a mushy, drier piece of meat. Therefore use marinades to give flavor not to tenderize. It is  the cooking process which will give meat its texture. 
 
BBQ pork belly with caramelized endive and cherries - first brined then roasted and the last minute brushed with a bbq sauce

A few tricks I recommend 
- brine your meat (which is a form of marinating). A rule of thumb is to brine for 1-2 hours per inch of meat. Simply mix 1 cup of Kosher salt with 1 gallon of water. Make sure you refrigerate the meat during brining. This will lock the natural juices in.

- flavor meats with a marinade instantly just a few minutes before it is grilled versus long time marinating. This will require a lower grilling temperature otherwise the meat will be heavely charred before it’s done. If you decide to slow cook your meat the tenderizing enzymes act in a temperature zone of 140°F – 175°F and deactivate at boiling point (212°F)

- do not marinate with raw wine, cognac or others it will “burn” your meats. Bring it to boil for one minute which will burn off the alcohol. Make shure you cool the liquid before adding the meat.

- when marinating with oils, herbs, vegetables or such be sure to wip it off  before the meat is grilled othervise it will burn instantly.

- another way of tenderizing is with a Jaccard which is a handheld tool with many little blades with which you break down the connective tissue of meats instantly by puncturing the meat in a controlled way.

- use your marinade just before the meat is ready by brushing it on the meat so to give flavor and heat up but do not burn.
 
BBQ Bershire pork ribs & Belize shrimp with potato confit and cucumber ribbons
The ribs are brined then cooked for 10 hours, five minutes before serving I brushed the ribs with a bbq sauce.

A WHIFF OF BAKED BREAD

What do you do when you’re financially strained and work many hours? I ran to work to save on Metro fair. I still remember when I sprinted through the streets of Paris early in the morning and passed by bakeries which where busy turning out the daily bread. The scent of freshly baked bread in the air was mesmerizing. I would make a point to stop and stretch my muscles in front of a bakery vents to get a whiff of what was coming out of the oven.

I apprenticed at a Michelin starred Relais & Chateau hotel in Bavaria (www.residenz-heinz-winkler.de ) where a heavenly breakfast buffet was served.
I was working the fish station at the time and I made sure to stay good friends with my collegues in the pastry department who were responsible for the majority of breakfast.
Once in a while I could sneak one of those  heavenly rolls with a crusty outside and a fluffy light inside. Amazing air dried hams, seafood delicacies and expertly prepared house-made jellies where on hand too.

I have had always little bites on my menu which suit  the economy in particular now.

Toasted Mini Lobster Roll

Paprika Cheese spread Pinnwheel – with Gherkins, Capers and Farmers Cheese

Duck Ham with Strawberry & Hot Pepper – draped around duck leg confit 
 

Canape of Whipped Foie Gras & Cassis Jelly

Pumpernickel with Egg Middle & Caviar

Roasted Organic Beets in Rhubarb & Lovage

 

NOT ONLY PEARLS

I often wonder why people like oysters so much because let’s face it they are slippery, soft & stringy-textured foods. Is is because the frisky Casonova devoured 50 of the mollusks every day for breakfast to get his stamina going? 
 
Wellfleet oysters

I remember a time in Paris during the holidays when resaurant where I apprentized was closed for a break. Cooking in Paris was rather difficult - to say the least - since most of my collegues at that time made it feel like nobody else could actually cook delicious food other then a French person. So back to my oyster memory. I always enjoyed the scent of freshly baked baguettes wafting out of some close by bakery and on a particular morning I decided to do something “Paris cliché”… eat some oysters.

Oyster stands can be all over Paris and usually they are located in front of a restaurant. They are composed of a few oyster crates and a bar like set up where one can indulge in Champagne and oysters.

I devoured Fines De Claire and Belon oysters before and thought they were very good. Being in Paris slurping Champagne and briney oysters was even better.
It seemed to be the perfect day until half an hour later when I became violently ill and then had to spend the next 36 hours in my tiny dark studio apartment’s bathroom.

Since then I kept my distance from oysters for the obvious reasons.  But I was confronted with my memories when I had a seafood restaurant and oysters returned to my life. I made sure that my oysters were top notch and learned why there is a chance with oysters that they may not be “good ones.”  An oyster pumps up to 24 gallons of ocean water through their stystem throughout the day. So not only do they make their diet from the ocean water but also the occasional bacteria might enter their system this way. So, not only pearls come out of oysters!

In these days we discard oysters which are not alive anymore which means they must be snapped all the way closed and still have ocean water (also know as oyster liquour) in their shell. Another indicator of a bad oyster is a foul smell -- believe me you wont miss a dead one, it really stinks.
 
Beausolai oysters

But the question is still there - -why is it so exciting to eat an oyster?  Is it really an aphrodisiac?  Is it because of the organ-like quality it has?  Is it because it is challenging and decadent?  Or because it is oceanic like drinking part of the sea?  I think it is all of these reasons that make eating an oyster a sexy experience – and not to mention the war stories you get to brag about if you should be unlucky enough to encounter a bad one! 

THE FIRST TIME

I remember eating a soft-shell crab the first time in Europe 20 years ago in a three Michelin star restaurant and for me as a young cook it was defenitly the best food “thing.”  I never had seen something like it before - it was my first time.
The one the chef served was lightly pan fried and kind of small. It was draped over a tropical fruit and  herb salad I still can remember it was simple and really delicous with a seductive crunch. I found out that night that these kinds of crabs shed their hard shell every so often allowing you to eat it for a short period of time until the shell hardens again.

Dejavu
Many years later now a chef in the States I came across these little eight legged beach runners again. At the beginning of the season every year I have my dejavu and it puts a smile on my face still remembering my first time.

Lunch
I enjoy them often in a BLT version.  It reminds me of the American way of a casual lunch. It makes an ideal spring/summer lunch. Usually it consists of thinly sliced ripe avocado, vine ripened fat tomatoes and a good bacon, like the one from www.flyingpigfarm.com.  Everything is packed between two delicous layeres of grilled sourdough baguette.

Full moon in spring
The season is traditionally marked with the first full moon in May to early September when they are available at the fish market. I make sure that they are packed between hay which keeps them moist so they will survive at least a day or two in the refrigerator until consumed.

I love females
I try to get the ones from the Cheseapeak Bay - they are gorgeous.  I ask to pick female crabs because they tend to be fattier and jucier and they have the tomalley inside which we also call mustard.  This tends to ooze out when you press your sandwich together, its delicious.

Belly up
Turn your soft-shell crab belly up and flip the tail or apron back and cut it off with a scissor.  Flip the bugger over so the top is facing you and bend the two wings (pointy side flaps to the left and right of the crab) towards the middle so the lungs are exposed - it looks like fish gills, and remove it with a scissor. Then here comes the hard part cut across the front of the crab removing the little antennas and eyes.

Sizzle me
I prefer the jumbo sized crabs (around 5 ½ “) or even larger whales (over 5 ½ “).  I sprinkle them with Durum flour which is finely ground fancy hard wheat which makes a nice coating whithout beeing sticky. I tried several different coatings like tempura, beer batters or different crustings and various nuts and seeds but nothing really made them deliciously natural like the Durum dusting. For seasoning if you prefer them spicy, add a touch of cayenne which with their natural brineness is perfect, meaning they don’t need any additional salt. I usually sear them in a saute pan on each side in 1/8 of an inch deep vegetable oil on medium heat setting for four minutes or until golden in color. Once cooked place on a paper towel lined plate to absorb the extra oil. The making of the sandwich is self explanatory -- seared soft-shell, tomato, avocado and crispy bacon between sourdough bread.
 
Soft-shell crab with organic Maine salmon and fiddlehead ferns and lemon peel puree