I can’t wait until the first warming sunrays shine in our faces and things get a little more Spring-like. Tulips appear, colorful foods return to the greenmarket and we can shed the wool sweaters and hats. I’m done with winter. Stews and pot roasts move over for lighter foods!
(Spanish mackerel ceviche with lime juice, mango, red peppers and rainbow trout caviar)
A healthy method of preparing fish comes to mind when I think of Spring and Summer cooking – ceviche. Preparing ceviche does not involve heat, therefore it helps to preserve nutrition and vitamins, similar to sushi. And there is something sexy about ceviche … maybe it’s the word, the vibrant colors, the glass it’s usually served in, the citrusy punch .. all of it.
(King salmon ceviche with black salt, cucumber and baby apples)
Pickled Fish?
Before I came to the USA I was not familiar with the technique of marinating fish or meats. It is similar to pickling vegetables but with different ingredients – and pickling I knew. But marinating fish and meat opened a whole other spectrum of “cooking” – if you can call it that – and thus I discovered ceviche. I’m grateful to my Ecuadorian chef colleagues who taught this Austrian chef a whole lot about it.
(fish "candy" fluke around caper berries with pop rocks for textural contrast)
Peruvian, Mexican, Ecuadorian
It seems that ceviche originated in Latin America from the time when most homes lacked refrigeration. It provided a way of preserving fish especially in warm climates and now it is a signature dish of many Latin American countries, made in a particular regional, signature style. This natural preservation is obtained by adding citrus juices such as lime and spices and often hot peppers such as chilies to fish, which inhibits bacterial growth enabling fish to stay fresh for up to several days. Marinating in this way changes the appearance of raw fish and makes it look glassy and makes the texture silky smooth and tender when done right.
(diver sea scallops right out of the shell with button mushrooms and shiso cress)
What Happens To Raw Fish
Citrus juices have a high ph level which penetrates the fish protein (it denaturizes the protein) and breaks it down thereby softening the texture and changing its color to white or a translucent appearance. It does not kill bacteria as cooking does, so you must use impeccably fresh fish. We don’t really worry that much any more about storing fish over a length of time since we have the means of refrigeration and ice but the technique is still used now quite simply because it’s delicious.
(a squeeze of lime juice - ten minutes later the fish turns opaque)
Ceviche versus Escapeche
Ceviche refers to preparation with seafood and citrus juice. Escapeche is a similar preparation but fish is mostly prepared with vinegar and sometimes citrus juices, and it is usually fried or poached (gently cooked in liquid) before being marinated in acidic juices.
Ceviche Novice Recipe
(recipe for 4 appetizer portions)
½ cup fresh lime juice (4 limes)
2 teaspoons sea salt such as Baline
3 pinches cayenne
1 jalapeno pepper
2 scallions
1 pound fish such as fluke, salmon, mackerel (skinless)
1. Combine lime juice, sea salt, cayenne in a non-reactive bowl (stainless bowl) then mix with a wire whisk.
2. Cut jalapeno pepper in half then remove seeds and white jalapeno inside-walls (if you like your ceviche spicy, leave white walls attached to the jalapeno, for really spicy ceviche save jalapeno seeds for your dish). Cut jalapeno into slices 1/8-inch thick.
3. Cut scallions 1/8-inch wide.
4. Cut fish into slices with a sharp knife (I use a knife with a flexible blade to cut the thinnest slices possible).
5. Combine cut jalapeno, scallions and fish in the lime/spice mixture and marinate for 5 minutes or so – the fish will turn pale white and will tenderize.
Chef’s Note: It’s of utmost importance to use fresh, disease-free, and parasite-free fish.
A potential hazard can be controlled by using frozen fish for ceviche (freeze for 1 day), which will kill parasites like tapeworms and roundworms.
Once you have mastered the above basic recipe try different combinations such as your favorite spicy pepper, and try lemon juice or key lime juice in your ceviche recipe. I like red onions in ceviche which I dip into boiling water for 15 seconds or so before I add them to the ceviche mixture.
