Chef Daniel Angerer's Blog

THE WORD OF MOUSE

I’ve had several discussions over the last couple of months with other restaurateurs about marketing and social media in the hospitality field. The discussion centered on whether it is important for restaurants to interact with guests via social media beyond their experience in the dining room. For us it has been its fun to interact and stay connected with our guests and friends through Facebook, posting recipes on my blog and by tweeting about exciting updates so that our followers know what’s going on in the kitchen and beyond. We’re “Facebooking” restaurant status updates and perhaps at the same time bother our old elementary school mates we haven’t seen in ages. I frequently connect on LinkedIn with peers and other industry professionals to get a handle on what’s happening in their lives. Indeed all that is fun although it extends my already long restaurant day even more and spending quality time with my loved ones gets more and more challenging.

(pretty pictures help to get "Likes" on Facebook - Buckwheat greens with Spring carrots and fresh ricotta)


Marketing versus connecting
Not too long ago in the restaurant business if we wanted our guests’ attention we contacted a pr agency and tried to get the word out using their relations to the press – with not much measurable result.  Today marketing is a click away with a computer mouse or a hand held communication device in the restaurant which can increase business or at the least generate energy with comments or a simple “Like” or thumps-up (Facebook) – which is certainly more instantaneous and personal than traditional marketing in my opinion. 

(schnitzel pounding and using a phone should be two different tasks)
 

What Schnitzel and an I-phone have in common
Of course there are hazards when you try to go virtual in a commercial kitchen. The other day by pounding schnitzel and tweeting I accidentally pounded my handsome looking I-phone with the schnitzel hammer which was lying next to the cutting board. I concluded that schnitzel pounding and tweeting should be two different tasks.

(good for tweeting the right now dish - Tumbleweed cheddar dusted with fresh-dried morel mushrooms with the first local radish and the first tender mustard greens of the season) 

Opa knows how to get people to look at his site
My father (a/k/a Opa which is German for Grandpa) has been making me feel grandfatherly when it comes to YouTube since I’m not currently set up on it. He’s had lots of fun and about 6 million impressions already with his art related YouTube account! Hey Opa how do you post a video again? All that traffic that he gets on his site makes me jealous.

If you’re curious check it out – http://www.youtube.com/user/Art4you1943. 

In a Nutshell
I feel like I’m living in a daily cocktail party with this social media thing looming above my head constantly. It certainly creates terrific opportunities to make new friends and tie future relationships. Maybe the best of all is that it can be done from just about anywhere - even when you’re in pajamas on your couch. For my part I use social media most often when I come across exciting things food related. Reaching out in this way makes me feel socially connected to others.

(A typical seasonal daily Facebook post - carrot-pea green salad with sugar snap dressing) 

 

I'M IN A SCHNITZEL FEVER

(golden pan-fried schnitzel) 

In Austria where I grew up schnitzel is called “Wiener schnitzel” (meaning Viennese schnitzel) and it has to be made from veal by law. Schnitzel meat is sliced from the leg which is called Fricandeau.  It is sliced thinly then flattened gently with a mallet and then it gets dipped in flour, mixed egg and finely ground bread crumbs. Then it is cooked in a skillet filed with oil - only a finger deep –and pan-fried.  There is a significant difference between deep frying and fan frying – when properly pan fried, the schnitzel will cook to a golden, air puffed perfection.  By carefully and continuously shaking the oil-swimming schnitzel in the skillet over heat the actual veal meat develops steam and puffs-up the bread crust creating a type of souffleing-effect.

(cucumber salad)

Schnitzel Things
Traditionally, the Austrian schnitzel gets garnished with a wedge of lemon and some curly parsley. Each country seems to have their own specialized way of doing schnitzel things (accessories, accompaniments, accoutrements) with different garnishes such as tomato sauce, gravy, melting cheese (chicken parmigano anybody?), anchovy fillets, sunny-side eggs atop and on and on. My Japanese friend eats his tonkatsu (thick pork cutlet, bread crumbed) with lot of soy sauce.  I’m amazed and amused by guests’ insistence “this is how schnitzel must be served” if he or she had it in one region of Austria or another, or Bavaria or Switzerland or in Upstate NY.  If he had it with cucumber salad then memory demands that same garnish to call it “authentic.”  My staff always says “it’s called Wiener schnitzel, it’s from Vienna” with a smile (I hope)!

(red cabbage salad) 

Childhood Proportions
When I was little my mother mastered pork schnitzel for us kids. I remember it covered the whole plate and it seemed gigantic. I’m sure you can relate to some degree -- normal things like a stair case, an adult dinner fork are totally gigantic to kids.  And the giant schnitzel is even giant to an adult so you can imagine my child eyes staring at this oversized delicious thing on my plate.  I want to capture these impressions so we put a JUMBO schnitzel on our current Spring menu at Klee.

(carrot salad) 

Jumbo Schnitzel
(recipe for two extra large schnitzel)
2 slices pork loin (each 7-ounces)
3 large eggs
salt
fresh black pepper
2 cups flour
2 cups bread crumbs (ground finely)
2 cups vegetable oil such as canola or grape seed oil
2 tablespoons butter
3 wedges lemon

1. Butterfly-cut pork loin slices.
2. Line a flat surface such as a kitchen counter with plastic seran wrap (12x12-inch square) then put butterflyed pork on it and cover with a second layer of plastic  wrap. Gently flatten pork with a mallet (thickness of meat is ideal at maximum 1/8-inch thick after flattening and in 10-inch diameter). Flatten second pork slice.
3. Line three shallow plates next to each other one with flour, second with mixed eggs and third with bread crumbs.
4. Season pork with salt and pepper. Tip seasoned pork into flour then egg and bread crumbs (shake off flour then dip into egg and lastly tip into bread crumbs). Do  not press coating onto schnitzel.
5. In a shallow skillet (12-inch or so in diameter) heat half of vegetable oil on medium heat setting then add breaded pork slice (oil should be sizzling at this point).
6. Cook pork on one side then add half of the butter and turn with kitchen tongues to cook other side (cook schnitzel 3 minutes or so until crust has a golden color –  move skillet carefully back and forth – in this way the hot oil swaps over schnitzel  surface then turn and cook for 2 minutes more).
7. Squeeze some of the lemon over schnitzel then transfer to paper lined plate to absorb excess fat.  Pan-fry second piece of pork.

(schnitzel with three salads)

Chef’s plating suggestions: thinly sliced cucumber seasoned with salt and pepper marinated with vinegar and oil make a refreshing companion to schnitzel. Thinly sliced red cabbage tossed with mustard vinaigrette add terrific textural contrast and color.

 

THAT OLD BREAD

What to you do with that old bread which has been on the counter for a day already?  Prepare it like our ancestors have been doing it for the last few hundred years. A recipe brought over from Europe by settlers a long time ago … French toast! It is amazing what a treat that old loaf of bread can be again.

(fun, past Sunday at home French Toast competition, my spouse Lori plating her French toast)

 
(Sunday home French Toast competition my spouses (l) and mine (r) they were both delicious) 

The Lost Bread of Europe
The French and Dutch call it ‘pain perdu’ which translates to “lost bread” because the recipe uses that stale bread which would otherwise be thrown out.

In Austria my mother cooked “Pofesen” for dinner which is a plum jelly (“Powidl”) sandwich dipped in a sweet milk and egg mixture.

During my travels through Germany I ate their version which is called “Arme Ritter” or “poor night” in English. The name is believed to originate from medieval times when knights were poor and stuffed their bellies with sweetened skillet roasted bread over open fire.

In Spain their version of French toast is “torrijas” which are often prepared during Lent. It is sweetened with honey and spiced with a touch of cinnamon and is eat it for breakfast frequently.

In Jewish-American households it is the tradition to use leftover challah bread from Friday’s Shabbat dinner to make Challah French toast on Sunday morning.

In Italy “Mozarella in Carrozza” is a savory version where mozzarella cheese is wedged between two slices of bread and then dipped into salted egg mixture.

Easter Sunday French toast recipe
After much trial and error I serve this crisp French toast recipe on Klee’s brunch menu (our restaurant).  Soggy French toast is such a disappointment so I made it my mission to create a toast that retained its crisp character.  Pressing rolled oatmeal flakes on the outside of French toast is delicious too and enhances the crispy bite. I hope you enjoy.

Corn Flake Crusted French Toast
(recipe yields four portions)

1 cup milk

3 eggs

1 tablespoon honey

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

pinch salt

8 slices brioche bread (3/4-inch thick) day-old, stale white bread or challah bread may be  substituted

2 cups corn flakes (crushed to small pieces by hand)

3-4 tablespoons butter

1. In a bowl combine milk, eggs, honey, vanilla and salt then whisk with wire whisk to combine.
   
   
2. Dip bread slices into milk mixture (do not let the bread soak-up the liquid –  this way the bread won’t break apart). Then press gently into crushed corn flakes on both sides.
   
3. In a skillet melt butter on medium heat setting then cook until golden-brown in color (2-3 minutes). With a spatula turn French toast and cook other side until golden-brown (2-4 minutes).
   
4. Transfer French toast onto a cookie-sheet pan and reheat in 350 degree Fahrenheit hot oven.   Prepare remaining toasts.
   
5. Sprinkle French toast with powdered sugar before serving.

Chef’s Tip: for a “grown up” version of the French Toast recipe add two tablespoons of rum to the recipe. Serve with maple syrup and fresh sliced fruits such as bananas, strawberries or your favorite fruit. 

(Easter Sunday French Toast)

 

A CUP OF JOE

I love myself a cup of joe on a daily basis. The aroma of coffee makes me gravitate to the coffee machine.  I bet you can relate to it, whether you drink it or not, the smell of coffee can be mesmerizing. I equate that delicious aroma with getting my afternoon fix when my mind starts to wander and I need a little boost to put my mind back on track, and for many others it’s the wake-up ritual every morning. Personally I limit myself to one cup a day during the week since I don’t want to get hooked on caffeine.  But Sunday I make an exception and I give in to more warming deliciousness throughout the day. We even make it a destination of sorts before doing family things. I’m certainly not talking about the Starbucks or Dunkin Donuts on every other corner. The places I’m talking about sometimes have lines out the door, astoundingly, and at times a stretched wait. I guess I’m not the only one who appreciates a really good cup of coffee. 

(cup of Joe)

Some of the places I like to visit in NY are Stumptown coffee roasters in the Ace hotel, Café Grumpy on 20th street and Ninth Street coffee roasters in the Chelsea Market (which use Stumptown coffee).

Golden Elixir
We know that coffee has different flavor nuances and can be described as earthy, fresh, nutty, citrusy, chocolatey, spicey, floral on so on. Beyond these flavors, in a while I experience that moment of coffee perfection which to me is like golden elixir and it is mesmerizing and memorable.  Then this coffee thing -- cultish coffee followers, brewers with attitudes, people who sit with a cup at the upper right hand corner of their desk or table all the time,  and this whole purist craze – it all starts to make sense. In an ideal espresso the aroma, body and richness is in balance with a perfect crema floating on top which is that distinctive heavenly foam on top of espresso which appears to be a layer of cream but no cream has touched this perfect espresso.

Making Coffee.
At home we make coffee in a Mocca brewer/percolator and a French press which is very simple and it does a fine job. We’re not set up at home for espresso making so I’m going to explain a few basic steps what we do in the restaurant all that you can apply at home to make a good shoot. First we make sure the spout of the espresso/coffee machine is clean (wiped with a cloth and/or flushed with clear water). For the coffee itself I recommend buying coffee packed in individual coffee package portions since coffee beans or ground coffee exposed to air degrades rather quickly. In my experience within a week or so natural coffee bean oils become stale and hence subtle aroma nuances are lost. I have two employees destined in the restaurant to check on supply and demand in this way we never overbuy coffee products since freshness is one of the main factors of a good cup of joe. My guy’s in the restaurant certainly make a good cup of coffee I think they have passion and pride and the knowhow how to handle/clean the coffee/espresso machine. Of course good quality coffee beans and a careful bean roast is a must.

Coffee Cuisine
I incorporate coffee into several recipes to raise certain flavor profiles some examples are:

Vanilla cream gets a sprinkle of espresso in the mixture which rounds out the vanilla flavor.

A beef burger made with all natural Brandt Beef from a Farm in California gets a small amount of ground coffee which enhances the natural flavor of the beef even more. 

Chocolate brownies benefit from a shoot of espresso in the recipe which form a perfect flavor symposium between coffee and chocolate.