Chef Daniel Angerer's Blog

A RECIPE FOR BOILED EGGS - SERIOUSLY

Recently eggs have been on my radar, possibly because my  toddler daughter’s obsession with them, especially hard-boiled eggs for breakfast. Of course she makes a big mess  of the egg breakfast holding it in her tiny hands but she is happy and gets good nutrition at the start of the day. My spouse and I jumped on the bandwagon – it’s delicious and seems easy enough to do at home early in the morning.  So it seems one of us is always carrying a boiled egg around.  The other day a few questions came up on how to boil an egg perfectly since I commented to my spouse about the dark green shaded ring around the egg yolk, which indicates to me that the egg was cooked too long.  Another issue is that eggs often brake during the cooking process simply because they bump into each other and roughly hit the wall of the cooking vessel once the water boils violently, even when you delicately lower them into the pot on a tablespoon. Not that Arabella cares about broken or overcooked eggs but I owe it to my daughter as a professional chef  to make her the perfect boiled egg.

I took over the egg cooking process in our house - for now at least.   So we started experimenting with cooking time, temperature fluctuations and even changing the cooking vessel to perfect the ever popular but sometimes overlooked glorious hardboiled egg.

Eggcellence
My spouse buys organic large brown eggs for us at home which is an excellent source of vitamin E. and as you probably know eggs are rich in omega-3 fatty acids. The chickens that lay our eggs are fed an all-organic and vegetarian diet.

I utilize the egg carton  in the cooking process – yes, I cook the eggs in that cardboard box actually - a large enough pot is needed to fit the boxed eggs though.  Cooking them in the carton solves the problem of egg breakage since they can’t roll around wildly anymore in the boiling water.
Note: the eggs in this recipe come out of the refrigerator – this influences the cooking time

 

My ideal recipe for a hard-boiled egg:

• bring water to boil and immerse the card-boxed egg(s) into it .  Wait until the water boils again then switch the heat setting to the lowest level on the gas burner. Then steep for 12 minutes. So that the eggs cook gently to the point of moist doneness without running into problems of having a dark green shaded ring around the egg yolk. If you prefer the egg yolk to be drier, steep the eggs three minutes longer.
• Cool eggs under running cold water for 1 minute then peel.  The shell should come off easily and
  the center of the egg will be warm which adds to the pleasure of the eating experience.
  
  (boil water)
  
  (lower egg carton with eggs into the water
  
  
  
  
  (egg peeling) 
  
  
  (deviled eggs with golden beets)
  Note: sprinkle sea salt over halved breakfast eggs

If you want to be an “eggspert” keep reading
I realized that egg cookery has many variables:
Salting the egg cooking water (1 teaspoon/4 cups water) will make the cooked eggs shell come off more easily - the protein firms up better in the egg white.
Fresh eggs are often more difficult to peel like the ones I get from the Farmer’s market. Eggs that have been in our refrigerator for 3 days are easy to peel. 
If you have a hard time peeling a boiled egg: put the already cracked egg in the center of your microwave and zap for 20 seconds - this will solve the problem.
A trick to know if an egg is cooked sufficiently:  with a slotted spoon remove a cooked egg from the cooking water then spin it on the kitchen counter - an uncooked egg will spin out of alignment versus the cooked one which stays centered because the cooked egg yolk does not move around anymore.

 

 

BOK CHOY - BINGO - the blog

(charred bok choy with croutons, fermented pickles and radishes)

I was introduced to bok choy when I created a restaurant back in the late nineties. We were three partners one of whom was Chinese and loved bok choy, the other French and myself Austrian. Of course I wanted to reflect all of our interests and likes in our menu but being committed to locally sourced ingredients bok choy didn’t seem to be an option – I thought it was an imported vegetable. I was proved wrong when I met a family from Asia on my frequent farmer’s market trips. The family operates a local farm not far away from New York City and grows the most amazing bok choy and they sell it at the farmer’s market – Bingo. I created a chicken dish which I spiced with freshly ground licorice and then pan roasted it simply. The licorice underlined the natural roasting flavor quality. The chicken was served on a local three apple puree and bok choy which was quickly sautéed.

(saute bok choy with sausage and poached egg)

Thanks Bok Choy
Over the years I came to realize when creating menus that vegetables are actually triggering the sale of a protein such as beef, chicken, lamb etc – meaning that a guest generally knows what these taste like and actually chooses by the accompaniment.  So thank you bok choy for making my dish a top seller - the chicken and bok choy combo outsold the other menu items by far. 
Bok Choy is known to me in three versions shoots, baby sized and large. Younger bok choy is tender compared to the large one which has more texture. I love the crunchiness and simplicity of cooking it -- a quick steam makes the three versions palatable but when  kissed by a skillet quickly it becomes one of my favorite refreshing vegetables in Summer time.

Sautéed Bock Choy Salad
(recipe yields four bok choy side portions)

1 large bok choy or 2 lbs baby bok choy
3 scallions
2 tablespoons sunflower seeds
1 tablespoon canola oil

Dressing
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
1 tablespoon light soy sauce
1 teaspoon agave syrup or honey may be substituted
1 teaspoon sesame oil
pinch pepper flakes

1. rinse bok choy with water then cut into 1-inch pieces
2. rinse scallions with water then cut into 1-inch pieces
3. toast sunflower seeds in a skillet on medium heat setting until browned
4. for the dressing combine rice vinegar, soy sauce, agave, sesame oil, and pepper flakes then mix with a wire whisk
5. In a large (11-inch diameter) skillet heat canola oil on high heat setting then add bok choy and cook/brown for 4-5 minutes then add dressing. Serve immediately (at this point bok choy still has a nice crunch but lost it’s rawness)

(bok choy salad with carrots, ping pong radishes and Sriracha dressing)

Note: bok choy contains a high amount of vitamin A and vitamin C 

Chef’s Tip: bok choy is terrific next to bbq pork or beef and perfect under a filet of grilled fish

MY OMA IN AUSTRIA - the blog

(my mother's Liptauer cheese spread)

As a young boy I was fortunate to have a mother who cooked traditional Austrian meals on a daily basis. It was natural for her to bring to the table what she had learned from her mother and the food and traditions on which she was raised. Needless to say all foods were locally sourced, some of it a stoneks throw from where I was raised. I remember walking to my grandmother’s farm-house quite often - it was a large estate, two stories high. My grandmother wasn’t herself into farming and agriculture she just owned the house and the surrounding land. The first floor of the farm and stable of the house was rented out to an operating farmer who raised oinking piggies, brown flecked cows, proud chickens and a whole family of dogs and cats. My oma (grandmother in Austrian) always had an abundance of edible goodies from the farm ready to be enjoyed. As I grew older I realized that this plentifulness of food from the farm was no coincidence, it was actually a part of the lease terms to have an unlimited supply of milk from the cows downstairs which was sweet as vanilla cream. The orchard supplied fragrant apples, aromatic pears, fleshy plums, soft skinned apricots and we relished a variety of tender lettuces and crunchy radishes from the farm’s garden. The agreement even included schnapps which was distilled on premises from the various gifts of the orchard - a hobby of the farmer. 

(Heurige cheese & apples  "everything from this years harvest") 


This season's wine and food
Lease agreements where certainly different back in the day compared to these days. Recently I have been involved in a few of them in my own life. I guess it triggered old memories so much that we want to revitalize some of those traditions in our restaurant. In Austria there is one word which describes a restaurant which sources its ingredients from the immediate area and often produces everything themselves in a fashion similar to a farm. It's called a “Heurige” which essentially means everything edible and drinkable comes from the most recent harvest such as wines, beers summer sausages, cured hams, pickled vegetable. I remember eating saibling which is from the rainbow trout family, and smoked carp looking over the picturesque Danube river in one of those Heurigen on our most recent visit to Vienna. It was accompanied by a green and zingy, fresh Grüner Veltliner wine (an Austrian grape) from the most recent harvest which was a perfect match.
The following recipe is my mother’s it did not need any revisions and will go right on the menu.

(house-pickled market fresh vegetables - perfect for snacking in the wine tavern) 

Liptauer Cheese Spread
(enough cheese dip for a party of four person)

4 ounces butter    
4 ounces farmers cheese    
4 ounces cream cheese  
1 glove garlic
1 shallot
1 large pickle
1 tablespoon capers,
1 tablespoon flat leaf parsley
1 teaspoons sea salt such as Baline
1/8 teaspoon cayenne
2 tablespoons Hungarian-style paprika powder

1. Soften butter at room temperature (let butter sit for 15 minutes at room temperature).
2. In a electric kitchen blender whip butter (4-5 minutes) with paddle attachment then add topfen, cream cheese and cooked garlic continue to whip mixture (4-5 minutes).
3. Peel and cut shallot, garlic (1/8-inch dice), dice pickles (1/8-inch dice), chop capers finely and cut parley (1/8-inch wide). Bring a pot filled with water (2 cups)  to boil then cook onions and pickles for one minute then poor into a strainer and let cool.
4. Combine spices, cooked/cooled vegetables and parsley with butter mixture and mix to combine (1-2 minutes)

Chef’s note: the farmer’s cheese used in this recipe is called topfen - I get it from the farmer’s market. In Austria a cheese dip is eaten with thin slices of dark fragrant  rye bread.

 

 

PEAS IN A POD

This time of year evenings are still cool and the day temperatures are quite high already. This seems to be a good climate for peas since they have a natural sweetness unlike any other vegetable - the mild candy quality of the peas makes me think I should create a dessert with them where very little added sugar is needed. Yes, I’m enamored with peas - so much that I chose it as a part of the cookbook title I have been working on …Sugar From Peas. 

(peas in a pod)

On the menu
At my guests' request each spring season our chilled pea soup makes a comeback in my restaurant. I remember a dish which I loved as a young cook when I was a culinary trainee in Italy. We had to prepare risi pisi which is peas and rice with some cubed carrots in the mix for color - it was simple and delicious because of the excellent green peas. I feature something similar on my current menu which I combine with luscious bbq Berkshire pork belly, and it’s a real treat, just a terrific combination of flavors. 

(peas & carrot salad)

Peas & Co
Unlike the rounded pods of garden or English peas, the pods of snow peas are flat. When selecting them choose smaller pods as they tend to be sweeter. The peas I have from the Farmer’s market this week Iare so crunchy, sweet and satisfying I don’t even cook them as their flavor and texture are such a nice component in salads. I simply cut them in mouth-sized pieces and toss them with sliced radishes - another of the moment's vegetables. Last week we combined peas with chopped asparagus and green celery and I'm already looking forward to tomatoes and corn in a few weeks which will make terrific companions for peas. I suggest staying raw with these vegetables - simply chop’n dress and stay cool in the heat wave. 

(peas & radish salad)
 
Snap Peas & Radish Salad
(recipe yields four appetizer portions)
 
Lime & Honey Dressing
1 lime
1 teaspoon sea salt such as Baline
1 teaspoon honey such as clover honey
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
2 pinches cayenne
5 gratings black pepper corn
 
1. Cut lime in half then juice into a small bowl.
2. Combine lime juice with salt, honey, vinegar, cayenne and pepper then mix with a wire whisk.
3. Poor olive oil slowly into lime/honey mixture constantly mixing with the whisk.

Snap Pea Salad
Sea salt (to taste)
4 cups sugar snap peas 
2 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley 
4 radishes (1/2-diameter) such as red garden radish

1. Cut off ends from snap peas then cut in ½-inch long pieces
2. Cut radishes with a vegetable slicer such as a mandolin (1/8-inch thick slices) or a knife.
3. In a bowl toss snap peas with radish slices and parsley then serve.
 
(a mountain of peas)
(peas and funny name radishes)

Chef’s Note:
I read up on the nutrient value of peas it turns out they are a good source of vitamin K, C, A and B, they support blood sugar regulation and are beneficial in preventing stomach cancer since peas are a good source of antioxidants!  

 

PICNIC

We live close-by an amazing green walk-way which is located on and old railroad track two stories above street level it’s called the Highline – this week is the highly anticipated opening of the second renovated section  of it with the main entrance on 23rd street.  If you visit New York City I recommend you take a stroll along the beautifully designed pathway during your stay. If you live in Manhattan and you haven’t been yet – it’s a must check-out. It gives a voyeuristic glimpse into the surrounding scenery -- buildings, human pedestrian traffic, and backyards -- all interesting to look at. The other day we had friends visiting from out of town and were showing off our new pathway-park – they enjoyed it very much.

(Farmstead cheddar from England, 5-spoke Creamery cheddar from Pennsylvania, Emmentahler from Switzerland)

En plein air snacking
We realized it’d be nice to nibble on something during chatting, sitting on the funky benches and absorbing the bustling walk-way – a picnic came to mind.
Our new restaurant Little Cheese Pub happens to be a stone’s throw from the Highline so I phoned in an order of a cheese plate and my favorite large pretzel with cheese dip, and a few more dips next to house-pickled vegetables. Within 20 minutes we were happy to see Roberto our delivery man with the goodies. It was delicious and straight forward -- we ate with our hands, no bother with cutlery, and enjoyed little wedges of cheese and loaded up on house-baked poppy seed crisps with green olive hummus and dipped the giant pretzel in the piquant cheese dip seasoned with Hungarian paprika and minced pickles. Al fresco snacking on a beautiful sunny day certainly has its appeal. Really not much can compete which is why everything tastes so good on vacations! The following cheese dip is fairly simple to make and I suggest bringing this potluck along to your next picnic party. It will be much appreciated.

(green olive hummus with poppy seed crisps)

Cheese Dip
(enough for a snack for four people – accompanied by crackers, bread crisps or pretzels)

8 ounces cream cheese  
¼-tablespoon roasted garlic puree
1 shallot, diced
¼-cups pickles, chopped
¼-cup capers, chopped
1 tablespoon flat leaf parsley, chopped
Kosher-style salt, to taste
2 pinches cayenne
1 tablespoon Hungarian-style paprika powder

1. In a mixing bowl combine all ingredients and mix with a wire whisk.

A few picnic tips:
- I recommend firm cheese for picnics which can withstand hotter temperatures (parmesan, cheddar chunks, pecorino, etc.)
- nuts, olives or such finger foods are ideal and easy to maneuver on a blanket
- utensils are not worth bringing so look out for pre-portioned edibles (grapes, sandwiches, mouth sized pieces of fruits etc.)
- some controlled outdoor places let you bring wine and beer if that is the case I recommend screw caps on bottles (I forgot several times either corkscrew or bottle opener
– which is a bummer at the moment)
- whipped cream, chocolates – keep’em for the romantic picnic in the cooler evenings - who needs the melting mess during the hot day

(my little family having a picnic) 

Picnics are a terrific way to connect again: We planned my mother-in-law’s birthday around a walk along the Highline with a picnic snack and I’m planning about a quiet, romantic Sunday evening with my spouse – I’ll arrange a babysitter for Arabella our daughter and perhaps bring strawberries and cream.