Chef Daniel Angerer's Blog

CRUCIFEROUS VEGETABLES - the blog

On my last trip to the farmer’s market I noticed that carrots got smaller which is a sure sign of the season changing and the next bundle of vegetables to come.

On the east coast we’ve already had a few cool days. Cruciferous cabbage vegetables will soon appear on the vegetable stand – start to look for white cabbage, red cabbage, Savoy cabbage, kale, mustard greens, bok choy, kohlrabi, cauliflower, broccoli and so on. These vegetables will be plentiful seeming like seasonal flowers with their many leafy layers. The first batch of local Brussels sprouts will hit the market in about 10 days – can’t wait for it. 

(Napa cabbage "loaves")
There is one cabbage that has particularly caught my attention  – Napa cabbage. The first impression will remind you of a big bushy head of romaine but once picked up the weightiness will most likely surprise you. Napa cabbage is a handsome looking vegetable with thick white veins that end in thin branches running through the leaves. The lightly curled edged leaves are tender and have an addictive crunchy texture.  Eaten simply raw one gets that sweet cabbage flavor which pairs very nicely with a spicy tomato-based sauce.  Ideally your tomato sauce should have a thick consistency so that it coats the chopped leaves well. Following is one of my favorite raw Napa cabbage preparations.

(open-face lasagne with napa cabbage, bok choy and a spicy tomato sauce) 

 (fall vegetable casserole)

Spicy Tomato Dressing
(recipe yields four portions)
2 tablespoons fresh oregano leaves
1 bay leaf
1 clove garlic, peeled
1 teaspoon hot sauce such as Sriracha
1 cup canned plum tomatoes
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
sea salt, to taste

1.     Chop oregano and bay leaf finely.
2.     In a mixing bowl crush tomatoes with a table fork.
3.     Add other ingredients to the crushed tomatoes

Napa Cabbage
1 Napa cabbage
Spicy Tomato Dressing (above recipe)

1.     Cut  ½-inch of  Napa cabbage bottom then peel off outer leaves and discard.
2.     Cut Napa cabbage lengthwise into six wedges then cut across into mouth- sized squares.
3.     Rinse Napa cabbage with water then dry in a salad spinner or on a kitchen paper towel.
4.     In a bowl toss Napa cabbage and spicy tomato dressing.

Nutrition
Napa cabbage has a few healthy surprises

- A generous quantity of vitamin K and C
- a cholesterol lowering effect
- cancer preventing properties

Plus Napa cabbage is low in calories and makes your stomach feel satiated.

(bok choy)                     (Brussels sprouts) 

…more delicious serving suggestions to make Napa cabbage shine
Steamed
Napa cabbage steamed for a few minutes works well with solid flavors such as braised pork for or grilled salmon.
Sautee
Stir-frying in a bit vegetable oil such as grape seed or canola works well for a sautéed version of Napa cabbage. I recommend adding some crushed peanuts, for crunch in addition to flavor and a touch of unsweetened coconut milk for richness and roughly chopped cilantro will make the flavors jump.
Grilled
Cut Napa cabbage into large wedges and sprinkle with olive oil. Grill the leaves on all sides. Serve on a large platter sprinkled with some thinly shaved hard cheese such as sharp Manchego from Spain.  Chopped sun-dried tomatoes add tasty colorful speckles to the dish.
Mac & Cheese
I have been working on a cheese book project for a while now and developed a recipe with chopped Napa cabbage and cherry tomatoes – to be revealed in the book!

 

PUMPKIN SEEDS -the blog

I relate to pumpkin seed and its oil like an Italian to his olives. When pumpkin season starts it moves to the top of my ingredient list.  I’m accustomed to the taste from growing up in Austria where pumpkin seed oil dressings would leave dark green residue on white salad plates, the shiny hue seemed like a greenish-golden color.

(golden-greenish hue left on the plate - pumpkin seed oil)

Nutrients
Pumpkin seed oil is rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids and is a rich source of zinc and magnesium. It is said that pumpkin seed products may contribute to male prostate health as well as contributing to good bone density for all. 

Pumpkin seed oil
Hulled pumpkin seeds get lightly roasted in the production of oil similar to coffee bean roasting. In addition to the heritage of the seeds, the toasting process is one of the key stages in the making.

At it’s very best pumpkin seed oil is pressed in the “extra virgin” manner where it does not create nor require any heat leaving all the nutrient value and exceptional flavor intact.

(toasted pumpkin seeds and squash) 


(rigatoni with kale, pumpkin seed and pumpkin seed oil) 

A “Light” Oil with no let down
Pumpkin seed oil should be used in room temperature or cold prepared recipes - meaning you should not cook with it since it would destroy its qualities.  I recommend substituting it for extra virgin olive oil in some dishes.  However, its flavor is intense and a little goes a long way so I suggest using only 1/4 – 1/3 of the amount of olive oil that you would use.  This flavor concentration makes it comparatively light. 

 (roasted quinoa with late harvest carrots and paprika sprinkled with pumpkin seeds) 

The versatility of the dark gold makes this oil a staple in my refrigerator. I use it frequently in dressings, a drizzle on soups such as potato or as a finishing oil. The exquisite taste of the toasty oil is amazing paired with lentils – a favorite of mine. It even has a place in desserts, just try a few drops on vanilla ice cream – a secret delicious combo. The viscosity of pumpkin seed oil is velvety and silky and next to other oils is like cream compared with milk.
Chef ‘s Note: Interestingly the oil appears green in thin and red layers giving it a shine like a rainbow would when poured out.

Preparing Pumpkin Seeds:

1. remove seeds from the pumpkin’s inner cavity
2. remove excess pulp and spread seeds out over a cookie sheet pan covered with parchment paper
3. dry seeds overnight
4. the next day toast them in a 180 degree hot oven for 30 minutes.

Chef’s Preparation & Serving Suggestions:

• in a skillet heat 1 teaspoon vegetable oil then roast pumpkin seeds continuously shaking pan back and forth – sprinkle with sea salt
• toss pumpkin seeds into sautéed seasonal vegetables such as carrots, kale, Swiss chard
• grind pumpkin seeds in a blender with lemon juice, olive oil and fresh Italian parsley to make a pumpkin seed/parsley pesto – toss this before serving into pasta

Oil Quality
I have tried a few different brands from different whereabouts that were not all impressive. Some oils suffered from smeary texture and burned flavor from over-roasting probably made in big batches the best to my means come from Austria. A good pumpkin seed oil has subtly sweet and nutty taste with a smell like an unripe almond. The texture of the oil when applied to the back of your hand feels silky like good skin oil. The opposite is often true sometimes it resembles almost something like motor oil – this might sound extreme but what’s the point. I think an Austrian pumpkin seed oil is a safe buy – I might be biased growing up there thought.  

 

 

RICE COOKER - THE GREAT MULTI-TASKER - the blog

Other than for cooking rice what’s the use of a rice cooker?  I have been wondering about this lately.  Sometimes you don't’ have the option of dragging in a commercial cooking range to do the cooking at catering event or for out of home cooking, so rice cookers have done wonders for me. It worked perfectly where open flames were not an option (e.g. museum, consulate). Also if you have a tiny apartment and need an extra hot spot there is your friend the rice cooker. Another factor is that rice cookers hold the heat within compared to a cooking vessel on the stovetop, which radiates a lot of heat and energy, particularly disturbing on a hot summer day. Let’s face it, it is simple to fill a rice cooker vessel and push one button - the hardest part is to wait until the food is cooked!

What To Cook
Beside the obvious rice I find it easy to cook plenty else with great success.  Grains such as quinoa, wheat berries, faro, beans, steel cut oats, polenta and even risotto shine when cooked in the rice cooker. Vegetables by themselves such as cabbage, carrots, Swiss chard etc. have great results, so flavorful. I call these braising vegetables, which are different than quick cooking vegetables such as peas, and asparagus. One pot food wonders like hot pot soups, stews, and sauces are the most ideal meals to be cooked in that rice cooker vessel with its electrical no-brain supervision.

Once you have figured out the time to cook a few recipes in a rice cooker you realize the options are limitless and you’re free to hit the button and leave instead of watching the stove.

Warm Holding
A warm holding option after the food has been cooked is a tremendous asset as you are able to keep food hot for a long period of time at a safe temperature where bacteria growth is unlikely to happen (above 150 degrees).  This comes in handy if you need to step away during the cooking process like my spouse does often when she is negotiating our toddler daughter’s busy play schedule.

Entertaining at home becomes easy without looking like a total mess in the kitchen since the holding capabilities give you plenty of time to get things organized and cleaned up before your guests arrive.

Hopeful Future
What you can’t do is grill in a rice cooker, for now, but that is just another invention away.  I’ve heard of stories where people made bread, cakes, egg dishes and more in a rice cooker!  This tells me there is still plenty to be discovered for us.
 
(millet in the rice cooker before and after cooking)


Braised Napa Cabbage w. Spices
(recipe yields four portions) 
1 head Napa Cabbage
1-tablespoon vegetable oil          
2 cloves garlic, peeled
½ teaspoon turmeric
½ teaspoon cumin
½ teaspoon sea salt
½ teaspoon cayenne
¼ teaspoon cardamom

1.     Halve cabbage with knife then cut hard core out of bottom. Pick deep-green outer leaves from         cabbage and discard.
2.     Cut cabbage halves into ½-inch wide strips.
3.     Put oil and garlic into the rice cooker, close lid then push “cook” button.
4.     After two minutes add cabbage and spices then close and push “cook“ button.
5.     Cook cabbage for 35 minutes.
6.     Serve immediately or put on the “hold setting” to keep the cabbage warm for an extended time         period.
 
(Nappa cabbage & spices before and after cooking) 

Chef’s Note: Be careful when you open the lid – scalding hot steam escapes!
Some rice cookers have settings for a range of foods but all of them have a cook and hold button, which is totally sufficient.
 
The theme of that day was vegetarian friendly dishes cooked in the rice cooker.
(left picture tofu, bok choy, buckwheat cabbage) 
(right barley risotto, baby spinach, string beans, Shisisto peppers with a sprinkle of Gruyere) 

In case you always wanted to know why rice washing is important?
Rice is washed before cooking with clear water to rinse off impurities, bran and starch which will result in light fluffy rice.

SWEET POTATO CASSEROLE - the blog

A comforting dish like sweet potato casserole has been on my mind since I saw gorgeous sweet potatoes at the local market recently. I never saw sweet potatoes until I came to the US where they are a staple on many holiday tables – not that you don’t know that!  Thanksgiving pops into my mind immediately when I think of them like a mental bridge to a beautiful, festive table setting with abundant food and somewhere in the middle you’ll find sweet potato dish. Just thinking about Thanksgiving puts a smile on my face.

(Sweet potatoes or yams?)

Sweet Potato Farming
I learned from my farmers that sweet potatoes are a bit tricky to grow: they’re not resistant to frost or draught and are not tolerant to water logging and also require good aeration in terms of storage since they develop tuber rot rather quickly. On the other side sweet potatoes grow in poor soils with little or no fertilizers. The fast growing vine inhibits weed growth since it covers the soil - it shades out weeds – so it barely needs weeding. 

How Sweet Those Nutrients!
Besides being fleshy and having a pretty orange color sweet potatoes are rich in complex carbohydrates, dietary fiber, beta carotene which is a key antioxidant, vitamin A, C, B6 and various minerals such as iron and calcium. Let’s face it sweet potatoes are rated excellent among the world’s healthiest foods since they’re plentiful available in many different parts of the world.
 
(cooking, steaming, mashing)
 
(toasted nuts, spices - all mixed together) 

Cooking
Sweet potatoes are simple to cook and are naturally delicious, ready-to serve. Just a pinch of this and a sprinkle of that and they are ready to be devoured.

Baked Sweet Potato Casserole with Mozzarella
(recipe yields four side-sized portions)

1 cup walnuts
1 branch rosemary, about 5-inches long
3 lb sweet potatoes
½ cup Kosher-style salt
Sea salt, to taste
Fresh black pepper grindings, to taste
2 pinch cinnamon powder
½ nutmeg, freshly grated
4 ounces or 6 thin slices of locally produced Mozzarella

1.     Preheat oven to 450 degrees Fahrenheit.
2.     Sprinkle walnuts into a baking pan then toast in oven for 8 minutes or until browned.
3.     Strip leaves of rosemary stem then cut finely.
4.     Sprinkle 1/2 cup of salt over bottom of a baking pan then put sweet potatoes on top. Cover pan with aluminum foil tightly then cook in hot oven for 1 h 30 minutes or until soft when pierced with a small knife.
5.     Cool potatoes for ten minutes then peel and put into a large bowl and add walnuts, sea salt, pepper, cinnamon, nutmeg and rosemary then mash and stir with a fork.
6.     Transfer sweet potato mixture into an ovenproof baking dish then put cheese on top. Bake casserole for five minutes and serve immediately.

Chef’s Tip: Try different nuts in the sweet potato recipe such as hazelnuts or for a special treat pecans.

Did You Know
The true yam is an entirely separate species of vegetables that grows only in the tropics  - so NO a sweet potato is not a yam. Sweet potatoes belong to the morning glory family and true yams belong to the Dioscoreaceae family – whatever that means.