Chef Daniel Angerer's Blog

OD on chocolate – the blog

Chocolate overdose made with dark chocolate

Like most children, I was a huge fan of chocolate. The holidays, in particular, were always about chocolate indulgence. It meant plenty of Hershey bars, M&M’s, Snickers, Reese’s peanut butter cups…and let’s not forget the hot chocolate concoctions. As I grew older all that indulgence not only made me feel guilty but also affected my appearance because of constant facial skin breakouts and dark spots.

Undoubtedly it had to change. Not wanting to give it up completely, I looked into the various ingredients in chocolate treats to see where I could cut down on the unhealthy stuff. Unsurprisingly, most mass-produced chocolate has a great deal of added white sugar, the health hazards of which have been extremely well documented. To make a long story short I weaned myself of that commercial sweetness and discovered the flavor of dark chocolate. Many manufacturers enhance dark chocolate’s deep, complex flavor by adding spices such as vanilla, sea salt, or cinnamon. In terms of texture, adding ingredients such as crushed cocoa nibs, coffee beans, chia seeds, nuts, puffed rice, or quinoa can be interesting. Besides cocoa butter, the richness of chocolate can be supported with nut butters, e.g. peanut butter, almond butter or coconut butter.

A plus point is that a number of chocolate brands have been popping up that are organic and fair trade. Naturally such chocolates suit the sustainable mind set. If you don’t want to eat soy products look out for the emulsifying ingredient soy lecithin; many brands contain it.

Chocolate brands worthwhile tasting ; )

Taking chocolate under the microscope
Fat: Here is the good news - some of the fats in chocolate do not impact your cholesterol. The fats in chocolate are:
1/3 oleic acid. Oleic acid is a healthy monounsaturated fat, the kind that is also found in olive oil.
1/3 stearic acid. Stearic acid is a saturated fat but it has a neutral effect on cholesterol.
1/3 palmitic acid, which is a form of saturated fat. It is said to raise cholesterol and the risk of heart disease.

That means the worry of fat is considerably lower in dark chocolate, since only 1/3 of the fat in it is not that great for you.

The flavonol factor
If you’re a dark chocolate lover, you’ve probably seen the research that suggests it has
important health benefits. After all, who doesn’t want to justify their chocolate addiction in the name of living a long life? The greatest benefit from dark chocolate comes with the highest concentration of cocoa, which contains flavonols. Flavonols are antioxidants, mopping up damaging free radicals that are produced during cell metabolism. There is evidence that this prevents the onset of cancer. Furthermore, flavonols can reduce high blood pressure since they make blood vessels more elastic. In extra-bitter chocolate, flavonols are present in concentrations 8 times the number found in strawberries.

It’s a common belief, especially among the parents of chocoholic children, that chocolate can get you wired. You may have heart that chocolate contains caffeine but also the lesser-known theobromine, which has similar affect to caffeine but with a milder sway. Chocolate acts as a stimulant to endorphin production, which gives a feeling of pleasure. Even better, that dark goodness contains serotonin, which acts as an anti-depressant.

Can you OD on chocolate?
You may ask how much chocolate is ok to enjoy before its advantages are cancelled out by the bad fats and the added sugar. Suggestions for a concrete amount are hard to come by. I learned about a study of nearly 20,000 people, followed over a period of eight years. It concluded that those who ate an average of 6 grams (0.2 oz) of chocolate per day had a 39 percent lower risk of heart attack or stroke. That’s a very small amount of chocolate, but it’s worth mentioning that the study did not put a cap on eating chocolate. Still, let’s be realistic. It does not mean that you should eat a pound of chocolate a day. In fact chocolate is still a high-calorie, high-fat food. One bar of dark chocolate has around 400 calories. If you eat half a bar of chocolate a day, it’s not a bad idea to balance those 200 calories by eating less of something else, e.g. pasta, bread or butter. Do it like me. I simply cut out other sweets or snacks and replace them with dark chocolate to keep my total calories consumed the same.

Let’s recap…
Taste the Chocolate
It is a complex food with over 300 compounds and chemicals in each bite. To really enjoy and appreciate chocolate take the time to taste it. Savor the appearance, smell, mouth-feel and taste of each bite.

Go for Dark Chocolate
Dark chocolate has far more antioxidants than milk or white chocolate. The latter two latter can’t, unfortunately, make any health claims. In the US, milk chocolate has to contain only 10 percent cocoa butter and white chocolate, 20 percent; the rest is often an excessive amount of sugar. Dark chocolate, on the other hand, has 65 percent or higher cocoa content. My suggestions are to look for pure dark chocolate or dark chocolate with nuts, orange peel or other natural, unprocessed flavorings. Avoid anything with caramel, nougat or other fillings. These fillings are adding tons of sugar and unnecessary fat, which erase many of the benefits you get from eating the chocolate.

Avoid Milk
It may taste good, but research shows that washing your chocolate down with a glass of milk could prevent the antioxidants being absorbed or used by your body.

Now, if you’re a little more convinced to give dark chocolate a go try it with the following hot chocolate recipe. Enjoy!

OD Hot Chocolate
(recipe makes four cups)

4 cups nut milk such as almond or cashew
4 tablespoons maple syrup
1 pinch cayenne powder
1 stick cinnamon, cut in half lengthwise
1/8-teaspoon sea salt
4 ounces dark chocolate (preferably at least 75% percent cacao) broken into small piece

1) In a pot combine cinnamon and nut milk and bring to boil.
2) On the side of the stove add the other ingredients.
3) Mix with a whisk until the chocolate has melted.
4) Steep for five minutes.

Hot chocolate spiked with rum

Tip: If you’re into spiked hot chocolate like me add 1 ounce rum just before drinking it.

JACKFRUIT WHAT? - the blog

Over the weekend, strolling through a health food store in a locale new to me, I came across a strange-looking fruit. There were large chunks of it with big seeds, and it reminded me of a durian fruit. In other words, the outside looks like a fossilized porcupine. Curious, I read the label and realized that I was holding jackfruit in my hands. It was excited because lately I have been hearing much about that fruit, as it is supposed to have a meaty quality to it and it makes its round in plant-based food circles. Can't beat a vegetable version of BBQ'd pork without the two-day prep time and hours of slow cooking. 

Check out that skin!

So what's the deal with jackfruit?
Jackfruit is the largest tree-borne fruit in the world — one fruit can weigh between 10 and 100 pounds and contain numerous seeds that are rich in protein, potassium, calcium, and iron — all of which are important for bodily growth.

These fruits are large!

Jackfruit origin
The jackfruit is believed to be indigenous to the rainforests of the Western Ghats of India. It spread early on to other parts of India, Southeast Asia, the East Indies and ultimately the Philippines. It is often planted in central and eastern Africa and is fairly popular in Brazil. Jackfruit is adapted to humid tropical and near-tropical climates. I read Bangladeshis greatly value jackfruit, while in India it is not popular due to its “poor-man’s” reputation. In the US it is indeed rare to find it. Luckily, I realized Chinatown in Manhattan sells whole, fresh jackfruit, as well as canned jackfruit that is brined, in sweet syrup or simply submerged in water. 

Giant fruits 
Jackfruit is the largest tree-borne fruit in the world, reaching 80 pounds in weight and up to 36 inches long and 20 inches in diameter. The exterior of the fruit is green or yellow when ripe. The interior consists of large edible bulbs of yellow, banana-flavored flesh that encloses a smooth, oval, light-brown seed. The seed is 3/4 to 1-1/2 inches long and 1/2 to 3/4 inches thick, and is white and crisp within. The average fruit bears 100 or up to 500 seeds in a single fruit. When fully ripe, the unopened jackfruit emits a strong disagreeable odor, like that of decaying onions. The pulp of the opened fruit smells of pineapple and banana. 

Jackfruit eatable fruits that I used for cooking

Nutritional bonanza
Jackfruit is high in protein, potassium and vitamin B. And, with about 95 calories in about a half a cup, they aren't as high-carb or caloric compared to staples like rice or corn. 
Fruits are typically picked in summer and fall. They drop of their own accord by the time they are overripe. A yearly yield can be in the 150- to 200-fruit range.

What to do with jackfruit?
Jackfruit can be dried, roasted, added to soups, or used in chips, jams, juices and ice cream. The seeds can be boiled, roasted or ground into flour. Even the tree itself is valuable: high-quality, rot-resistant timber for furniture and musical instruments.

The jackfruit is made up of hundreds or even thousands of individual flowers that are fused together. Commonly, the fleshy petals that surround the seed—which is the actual fruit—are eaten. As for the taste, it tastes better than it smells, in my opinion. The taste can be described as a mild mango, almost pear-like. The texture is a little mealy and stringy. It is sweet in a good, tropical kind of way. Its texture lends itself to mocking meat and absorbing just about any flavor you throw its way.

Let's get cooking...
For canned jackfruit, drain and clean it, and to be sure it’s young, green jackfruit in water, not brine or syrup. This is key to achieving the proper flavor and texture in savory dishes. 

I sautéed my jackfruit in vegetable oil and then tossed it with tomato sauce and spices, then continued to simmer it for about 30 minutes. That's it! If you don't have the spices handy, I recommend using your favorite store-bought BBQ sauce. 

Jackfruit BBQ 
(4 - 6 1-cup servings)
1-1/2 pounds fresh jackfruit (fleshy petals that surround the seed) 
or (2) 20-ounce cans young green jackfruit in water (NOT in syrup or brine)
2 tablespoons vegetable oil, such as safflower or olive oil 
1 teaspoon sea salt 
1/2 teaspoon chili spice 
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon 
1 tablespoon garlic powder 
OPTIONAL: 1 teaspoon liquid smoke and 1/8 teaspoon clove powder 
2 tablespoons agave nectar 
4 cups chopped canned tomatoes or (1) 28-ounce can or 3 cups of your favorite BBQ sauce 

1. If using canned fruit, rinse, drain and thoroughly dry the jackfruit. Chop off the center "core" portion of the fruit and discard. Cut into 1" pieces. 
2. Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add jackfruit and cook for 10 minutes. The pieces should have a brown color at this point; if not, continue to cook. 
3. Add spices, agave, and tomato or BBQ sauce, and 1 cup of water. Stir and reduce heat to low, then cook for about 20 minutes covered with a lid. Season with salt and pepper. 

Serving suggestions: 

• Serve your BBQ jackfruit between buns as a BBQ pulled pork sandwich. A creamy veggie slaw goes great with that. 
• Ladle the saucy goodness over steamed jasmine rice enriched with beans. 
• Serve it next to steamy mashed potatoes drizzled with extra virgin olive oil and seasoned with salt, pepper and fresh basil. My meat-hungry family loved that! 
• The next day, after the BBQ jackfruit has sat in the refrigerator, spread it on toasted, olive oil-brushed sourdough bread. Delicious! 

CONSCIOUS DOUBLE BURGER - the blog

Eating more vegetables is not so much an experiment as it is more of a life style change, and it just feels great on my system.

Worth mentioning is that along with all that came more education of animal husbandry and no-cruelty animal clothing or no-animal-fabric textile products. A recently viewed animal cruelty video that was filmed by undercover PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) agents sent shivers down my spine and made me wonder how those desensitized "humans" can possible do such awful things to any other living creature. 

For now, if there is dairy in my house it is organic or purchased at the close-by farmers market and predominantly consumed by my 6-year-old daughter. It’s not that her little body needs it, but I want her to have her own experiences and make her own decisions about eating.

Sweet Potato Burger

The reality is that it's quite amazing what's been going on with food inventions. You can get your necessary proteins through insects or have totally plant-based, meat-like burgers or steaks that behave just like the real thing—including "meat" juices juices.
Also chicken-like mixtures are on the vegan forefront. I read about mixtures that get extruded. It is being done just like pasta making with a machine where pasta is squeezed through dial – virtually any shape is possible and even Mark Bittman got excited.

Personally, I love vegetable burgers like those you can get in NYC joints like Blossoms and By Chloe. (In full disclosure, I work on this concept daily.) But occasionally my friends head over to burger places like Five Guys or Shake Shack and it made me think about how to diversify their meat cravings a bit, which leads me back to the title of this blog post—how to double up burgers consciously. Want that double burger experience? I suggest mixing up a potato or vegetable patty.

Double Burger with Veg Patty and Meat Patty

The Double...Conscious Burger 
(recipe makes two burgers)

Potato patty

1 cup or 5 ounces sweet potatoes, skin removed
1/4 teaspoon sea salt 
5 grindings black pepper from the mill
1/4 cup canned beans, drained and rinsed (I prefer kidney or black beans )
1/4 cup panko bread crumbs, finely ground in a kitchen processor  
1 teaspoon Sriracha sauce 
1/2 onion and 1 garlic clove, chopped and cooked slowly in 1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1. Combine all ingredients in a bowl and gently toss together with a table fork.
2. With your hands, gently shape and press the mixture into two 4-inch wide patties. Place the patties on a plate and transfer into a freezer for an hour. 
3. In a very hot skillet, cook the patties in vegetable oil for 4 minutes on each side. They should have a brown-roasted color; if not, cook for another minute. 

The rest of the ingredients
(6) 1/8-inch thick slices red onion rings, center removed 
(2) 1/8-inch thick cut steak tomatoes 
(2) butter lettuce leaves 
(2) 4-ounce beef burger, cooked (I suggest a grass-feed, 80:20 meat to fat ratio)
2 tablespoons of your favorite burger sauce (or see below)
2 potato buns, about 5 1/2" diameter 
I find the following burger spread addictive.

Burger Sauce
(yields enough for two burgers)

2 tablespoons vegenaise
1 tablespoon ketchup 
2 teaspoons yellow mustard 
2 teaspoons Sriracha sauce
1 teaspoon agave syrup
1/4 teaspoon sea salt 
1/4 teaspoon chipotle spice powder 

1. Combine the ingredients in a small bowl and mix with a tablespoon. 

Burger assembly

I suggest drizzling the cut-in-half burger buns with vegetable oil. Brown them in a medium-hot pan for 2 minutes or until they're brown-toasted. Spread the burger sauce onto the bottom and lid pieces of the bread, then layer as following:

Bottom bun 
Potato patty 
Lettuce 
Tomato
Onion rings 
Beef patty 
Top bun 

HASH BROWNS THE ALPINE WAY - the blog

HASH BROWNS THE ALPINE WAY.

Hash browns is a simple dish in which potatoes are shredded, diced or crushed and then griddled or fried. Certainly, they’re a staple on American breakfast menus.

To my astonishment, there are a myriad of ways to prepare them. I realized that when I looked hash brown recipes up online. Indeed, an endless number of cooks claim their preparation to be the best. While the obvious potatoes are a must, how those spuds are cut varies widely. Cooks shred either raw or cooked potatoes on a box grater, others swear on cutting them into strips, a.k.a., julienne with a knife. Others simply crush baked potatoes and give them shape by pressing them into cool-looking molds. I came across raw hash brown preparations that instruct the cook to rinse off the starch from the shredded potatoes before they’re cooked in a skillet. In my experience it made a rather light hash brown that fell apart easily.

perfectly crisped potatoes

Let’s hash brown
Indeed, I have had my share of trying different methods for hash browns. Currently, my vote goes to the following preparation. I bake russet potatoes on a bed of salt, then chill and peel them. Later, I shred the potatoes on the largest hole of my box grater and season them with salt, pepper and a small amount of garlic powder. I used to shy away from using garlic powder versus fresh chopped garlic, but in case of hash browns I like to use it since it distributes perfectly in the recipe.

When it is time to do the cooking I prefer to use a cast iron skillet. I leave on the stove for 2 minutes first so I can be sure it’s really hot and then I add vegetable oil and the potatoes. I’m looking for a crunchy-fried outside and a pillowy steaming hot interior.

Making hash browns in this way puts me right back to my apprentice years, high up in the Austrian Alps where we young cooks were given the task of making rösti.

Many Swiss people consider rösti to be a national dish. Indeed, its preparation is similar to hash browns. Rather than considering it to be a breakfast dish, it is often eaten in Central Europe as a vegetarian main course, usually served with pureed spinach and a fried egg. Making rösti still evokes the mental imprint of me adding nut-sized pieces of butter into the skillet back in the day. For sure, it made for a delectable potato dish. Often, people add a generous grating of alpine cheese, such as Appenzeller, just before serving. It added cheesy nuttiness and a heart-warming aroma.

For my part, I love a serving of golden-browned, crispy potatoes with that steaming inside. I recommend cooking a rösti up for your next steak dinner instead of French fries.

Hashbrowns the alpine way

Rösti – Swiss-style hash browns
(recipe yields four servings)

1 pound russet or Idaho potatoes
¼ cup Kosher salt (used for baking)
½ teaspoon sea salt
1 teaspoon garlic powder, 1 clove finely chopped garlic can be substituted
8 gratings of black pepper
4 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 tablespoons butter

1. Pre-heat oven to 450 degrees Fahrenheit. Spread salt evenly over a cookie-sheet pan. Arrange potatoes over the salt and bake in the hot oven for 45 minutes. The potatoes should be undercooked—you’re looking for a firm center.
2. Put potatoes on the kitchen counter to cool off. After 30 minutes, peel the potatoes and chill in the refrigerator.
3. After 2 hours, grate potatoes on the largest hole of a box grater.
4. In a bowl, gently toss potatoes with the sea salt, garlic and black pepper.
5. Heat a 10-inch cast iron pan for 2 minutes on the highest heat setting.
6. Add 2 tablespoons vegetable oil and carefully distribute the potatoes over the skillet.
7. Cook potatoes for 2 minutes, then continue to cook on medium heat. With a spatula, shape the potato into an even circle by pressing the edges gently to the middle. Continue to cook the potato for 15 minutes longer.
8. With the spatula, carefully release the potato cake from the skillet by gently scraping it off the bottom of the pan.
9. Slide the potato cake onto a plate. Cover potato cake with a second plate and flip them by pressing the two plates together. Slide the potato cake, cooked-side facing up, into the hot skillet and add 2 tablespoons vegetable oil. Continue to cook potato cake on medium heat for 15 minutes.
10. Add butter around the edges of the potato cake, cook for 2 more minutes, then slide the potato cake onto a plate.
11. Add a sprinkle of salt just before serving.

SOUP...THE LIQUID ASSET OF THE MOMENT – the blog

Not so long ago soup was what you got at the soup kitchen when you were down on your luck. Soup is what my mother advises me to eat when I happen to have a cold. Soup is what my grandparents ordered when they took us kids out to a restaurant. Last year bone broth became fashionable and it became the “it” food of the moment. 

It's becoming winter, and while I find the warmth of a stove comforting as I prepare dinner, I’ve also discovered that my motivation to fire up my home stove is declining. 

The best soup I've had recently was a bowl of spiced butternut squash with apple and quinoa along with some chopped kale.

The following recipe is made with parsnips and chestnuts. Of course, this recipe works just as well if you prefer foraging for your own chestnuts, but I defer to vacuum roasted and then frozen chestnuts available in select markets such as Whole Foods. If you'd like to cook your own chestnuts you can roast them, which lends more fragrance and nuttiness compared to boiling. In either case, you’ll need to cut slits on each chestnut beforehand, an absolutely essential step to cook them properly. For oven roasting, these slits serve as steam vents. If you don’t make the slits, the chestnuts can become mini bombs. Chestnuts exploding inside your oven will not make this recipe a quick clean-up job.

Parsnip soup with chopped apple

Parsnip and Chestnut Soup with Coconut
(recipe makes four portions)
5 oz (1 can) unsweetened coconut milk with no binders (e.g., carrageenan or xanthan, such as Thai brand)
15 chestnuts, peeled and cooked 
2 parsnips, chopped into 1/4-inch cubes (no need to peel)
1 white onion, peeled and finely chopped 
1-inch piece of ginger, finely chopped
3 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped 
2 tbsp olive oil (or coconut oil)
1 pinch cayenne 
1 teaspoon sea salt, and more to taste
4 cups vegetable broth (no sodium) 
2 cups water 
freshly milled black pepper

1. Put the coconut milk in the freezer for 10 minutes. Open the can and spoon off the creamy part. Keep that cream in the refrigerator. Reserve the coconut liquid.
2. Heat the oil in a gallon-sized pot on medium heat. Add the onions, garlic, chestnuts, parsnips, salt and cayenne and cook covered with a lid for 20 minutes. Stir the mixture every 5 minutes. 
3. Add the reserved coconut liquid, the vegetable broth and two cups of water and bring to boil, then continue to simmer on low heat without a lid. 
4. Strain the mixture through a colander and reserve the liquid. Transfer the cooked vegetables into a kitchen blender and process. Slowly add the cooking liquid one cup at a time through the blender lid opening and continue to blend, making a smooth consistency. This process takes me about 5 minutes.
5. Adjust seasoning with sea salt. 
6. Ladle the soup into four bowls. Just before serving the soup add 1/4 of the reserved, refrigerated coconut cream on top of each bowl. Garnish the soup with black pepper from the mill.

parsnips

Chef’s Note: Even my kid loves this soup, especially when I sprinkle salted popcorn over the soup just before serving. Your favorite brand of crushed potato chips can fill in instead. 

FALL APPLES - the blog

As fall has arrived, a friend of mine went apple picking to the beautiful Hudson Valley last week. She was kind enough to surprise me with a big bag of apples when she returned to the city. I love apples, but I can only eat a small portion of raw apples. If I eat too much, I get a strange stomachache. At home, I watch over our refined sugar intake, especially as my daughter gets super hyperactive from it. Always tweaking recipes, I came up with the following apple pie. The recipe is made with butter, but I decided to use a substitute – vegan Earth Balance butter, since I have that all the time in my refrigerator. 

An apple pie version with the apples nicely arranged.

Feel Good Apple Pie
(Recipe for a 12 inch diameter apple pie, yields 8 pie wedges) 

Pie Crust 
¼ teaspoon sea salt
1 ½ cups whole-wheat pastry flour
¼ cup vegan butter such as Earth Balance
4 tablespoons cold water 

Pie filling 
4 large apples, peeled and cut into 1" chunks
1 ⅓ cups unrefined apple cider, I bought mine at the local farmers market 
½ teaspoon cinnamon
½ lemon, juiced
2 tablespoons kudzu, potato starch or arrowroot can be substituted (more on kudzu at the end of this recipe) 

1. To make the crust, combine salt, pastry flour, and lastly the vegan butter. Mix well. Sprinkle the barley flour over this mixture, mix slightly, and add the cold water to make a thick ball. 
2. Quickly roll out between two sheets of wax paper.
3. Shape the dough into a 12-inch circle and place it into a lightly greased pie pan. Crimp the edges at the top of the pan. With the tons of a fork, prick the bottom and sides of the piecrust - this way, the piecrust won't puff up and it will allow the liquid from the pie filling to soak into it, which makes it super tasty.
4. Bake the piecrust for 15 minutes in the hot oven.
5. Meanwhile, combine the apples with 1/3 cup of the apple juice and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer 10 minutes. Then mix-in cinnamon and lemon juice.    
6. Combine the thickener and remaining 1 cup of apple juice, stir until dissolved. Add mixture to the apples and simmer for about 1 minute or until thickened. Spoon the apples into the crust and pour the thickened mixture over them.
7. Bake the pie for 40 minutes at 350 degrees Fahrenheit.

Chef's tip: I topped my apple pie with 1 cup of crushed walnuts that were first toasted and caramelized in 3 tablespoons of maple syrup in a skillet over medium-heat setting and then cooled on an oiled plate. They had a dark-brown caramelized color with crunchy texture. In addition, I chopped them with a chef’s knife and then sprinkled them over the apple pie along some fresh pomegranate seeds. 

Pomegranate

A note on kudzu
Kudzu is an unrefined, gluten free root starch derived from a Japanese tree. Kudzus applications are versatile. It can be used to thicken soups, sauces, stews, etc. In general, it has to be mixed with a cold thin liquid, e.g., water, apple juice, and the like, in order to work.

 

 

WONDROUS CHARCOAL - the blog

Activated charcoal has been a remedy for ages. I was curious about how it is being produced….after it is burned, it is treated with oxygen to open millions of pores in its atomic structure. Up to this day, it is still the go-to substance when it comes to preventing the majority of poisons from being absorbed into the bloodstream. It also eases gastrointestinal problems, such as stomach cramps, gas, and indigestion, because it absorbs excess gas in the gastrointestinal tract. It also prevents hangover. Because the body does not digest charcoal, particles of toxins will cling to it and exit the body.

Really black!

It sounds unlikely, but charcoal is an effective way to cleanse dirt and debris from the skin and body overall. The porous surface of charcoal has a negative electric charge that attracts positively charged unwanted toxins and gas.

When I feel unusually moody or suddenly tired, full from a heavy restaurant meal, activated charcoal often helps me get back in the game within minutes. I tried it on my child who had a tantrum after she ate sweet snacks. Activated charcoal calmed her down within about 10 minutes – sounds unlikely – try it out. Further, activated charcoal is often used in body detox products. It greatly helps alleviate body odor and bad breath – hurray!

And here comes the sell! Anti-aging properties – studies have shown activated charcoal prevents many cellular changes associated with aging, adrenal gland, and kidney function. Famous gerontologists discovered its powerful anti-aging properties in a study showing activated charcoal to increase the average lifespan of older test animals by approximately 34 percent.

Take it or leave it. It made me feel better in the following situations. When...

• eating out at restaurants or consuming junk foods
• drinking alcohol
• when I feel tired or unsettled 
• I dip my toothbrush into the powder about 3x a week and it does amazing whitening my teeth 
• also its my magic remedy for jet lag

How about brushing your teeth with charcoal?

Try it! You will most likely feel an immediate effect within a few minutes of consumption. It can be taken as a supplement every day to eliminate toxins of your system. It is recommended to take it between meals and not to combine it with the intake of vitamins, as it may interfere with the absorption of such. 

Charcoal production
The source of the charcoal counts. Fine grain material, e.g., wood or coconut shells, works well. You should know that it might stain the stool, which is normal. Activated charcoal is readily available in capsule form. The normal intake is two capsules a day. I take it after the above-mentioned bullet point. I make sure to drink a glass of water after the intake. 
It is important to note that activated charcoal is not charcoal from your barbecue. Barbecue charcoal is loaded with toxins and chemicals, and it should never be consumed!

More charcoal reading...

http://www.charcoalremedies.com/faq

 

 

 

MATCHA TEA - the blog

I’ve been getting asked about matcha a whole lot lately, and supposedly many dedicated coffee lovers are ditching java in favor of matcha!

The greenness adds to its visual appeal, and unique flavor makes it the current darling of the tea world. Recently, it has been promoted by the health and beauty sectors because the green tea leaves are believed to be high in antioxidants. Common steeped green tea has the reputation of being healthy because the leaves contain antioxidants; however, when preparing green tea traditionally, water can only extract a small amount of the leaves’ nutritional properties. In the case of matcha, one consumes the entire leaf, making it even more healthful. It has to be mentioned that matcha contains caffeine. You may get three times as much caffeine as is in a cup of steeped tea, which is about the same amount as in a cup of brewed coffee. Many matcha devotees say that compared to the caffeine buzz from coffee, matcha creates an alertness and mental clarity. Scientists say that this is caused by a natural substance called theanine, which induces relaxation without drowsiness. 

Matcha production
The preparation of matcha starts several weeks before the harvest and can last up to 20 days, when the tea bushes are covered to prevent direct sunlight. This slows down the growth and turns the leaves a darker shade of green, which causes the production of amino acids, in particular that theanine. Only the finest tea buds are handpicked and then dried. Later, the leaves are stone-ground into a powder.
Because of the tealeaves have to be handpicked to produce matcha, the tea has a steep price tag when compared to other tea.

Matcha preparation 
In America, matcha is consumed in a causal way. In the traditional Japanese tea ceremony, it is a ritual emphasizing the notion of mindfulness. The idea is that every encounter is unique and can never be reproduced. It means that each particular occasion and experience, each cup of matcha, can never be replicated and hence should be treasured. 

- Using the chashaku, sift a teaspoon of matcha powder into a chawan (bowl).
- Gently pour-in three ounces of 175°F hot water.
- With a bamboo whisk, aka chasen, whisk the water and matcha rapidly in a zig-zag
motion until frothy. The result is a hot and frothy beverage. It should have only small bubbles on the surface, if at all. 

Matcha taste
Matcha is grassy with a gentle sweetness and sometimes with a hint of bitterness. The flavor of matcha depends on the quality of powder used and the region from which it comes. There are clear distinctions between good and bad matcha quality. Not so good matcha tastes unpleasantly bitter. It can oxidize when exposed to prolonged exposure to oxygen. Usually, bad matcha has a distinctive hay-like smell and a dull brownish-green color. Matcha is best kept in an airtight dark container. I keep mine in the refrigerator for a longer period. 

Culinary matcha uses:
The naturally sweet, grassy notes adapt excellently to food and drink preparation. Some time ago, I was first introduced to it through a Japanese kitchen friend. Indeed, there's no shortage of creative uses for the powder. It can be infused into cocktails or whipped into lattes; in fact, Starbucks has made good use of it already in one of its latte concoctions. It is often dusted atop savory dishes and mixed into any number of sweets, from cakes to doughnuts and macaroons.

A simple way to enjoy matcha is the following chia puddingd.

Matcha Chia Seed Pudding
(two servings)
3 cups almond milk
1/2 cup chia seeds
1 tablespoon matcha (food grade)
2 tablespoons maple syrup 

1)   Combine all ingredients and stir with a whisk. Refrigerate the mixture for 15 minutes.
2)   Mix mixture with the whisk and refrigerate for 2 hours.

Chefs note: You can keep the matcha chia pudding for up to three days in the refrigerator.

 

SEPTEMBER GOLD - the blog

SEPTEMBER GOLD – the blog
Summer is ending. For most of the country, it will be a relief from the heat-in-your face that made the past month not too pleasant. Fall season coming upon us with its golden shaded brown and dark green colors brings with it seasonal vegetables to hit the kitchen counter: Swiss chard, Jerusalem artichokes, turnips, Fall squash, grapes, apples, and pears, just to name a few. 


Local
Those who are committed to eating local seasonal produce products don’t get to enjoy all fruits or vegetables at any time they want. It is similar to clothing, we just don't get to put our tank tops on all year around, as some clothing is clearly seasonal. Eating seasonally is also a simple way to support the environment and the local economy. Picking up fresh fruits and vegetables grown in the local area puts money in the farmers’ pockets. Moreover, it means that the food does not travel by plane, boat, and train to get from the farm to an overpriced grocery store. Indeed, the average food in the US travels 1500 miles, which burns unnecessary fuel and increases the carbon footprint caused by the food industry. 

kale salad

Grape & Tomato Salad with Maple Caramelized Walnuts 
(recipe yields 4 salads) 
1 cup seedless grapes cut in half 
3 heirloom tomatoes cut in mouth-sized pieces 
1/2 cup toasted walnuts tossed in 1 table spoon maple syrup cooked in a skillet until brown 
1 cup grain bread cut into 1/4 cubes and toasted 
1 bunch of arugula, cleaned and thick stems removed 

1) Arrange the arugula leaves on the plates and place tomatoes and grapes on the leaves
2) Sprinkle walnuts and breadcrumbs over vegetables 

maple caramelized walnuts

Maple Dressing:
3 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 
1 tablespoon maple syrup 
1 tablespoon water 
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
1/4 teaspoon sea salt 
8 turns black pepper from the mill 

1) In a jar, combine all dressing ingredients. Close the lid then shake vigorously.
2) Spoon dressing over the vegetables.

Chefs Tip: You can swap grapes for apples or pears.

 

 

 

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LOVE MYSELF SOME TOAST – the blog

I’m always looking forward to dinners at home. This past weekend it was one of the first few days that I was not working. There’s nothing like sitting around a table with friends and family. I'm bringing all this up since a weekend off is not the norm in a chef’s life. Appetizers are a must for any get-together, whether it’s a backyard barbecue, holiday get-together, or game night. I have a soft spot for toasts, or you can call them crostini. They're quick and easy to prepare so you needn’t spend much time in the kitchen, and less kitchen time equals more quality time with friends and family. There are so many amazing vegetables at the market at this time of the year—mint, basil, corn, vine-ripened tomatoes—and they’re all perfectly suitable for a crostini preparation.

tomato toast

Toppings 
Simple fork-mashed avocado and wedges of grape tomatoes are not only visually appealing, they’re delicious. Also, I like to cut tomatoes into mouth-sized wedges and season them with salt, pepper, a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, and fresh basil and roast them in the oven at 300 degrees for 20 minutes. It concentrates the flavors and is a nice contrast to the crunchy baked toast. 

One of my favorite things to do is stroll through the local farmers market with no particular plan on my mind as to what to cook. I always come home with a bunch of great random seasonal vegetables. Actually, that's how I find my best inspiration for cooking and writing for my blog. 

grape tomato & garlic toast

Oven-Roasted Tomato Toast with Avocado 
(recipe for four toasts) 

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
4 plum tomatoes, cut into 1/4" wedges 
1/2 pint grape tomatoes, cut in half 
black pepper from the mill, to taste 
1/4 teaspoon sea salt and more for seasoning
4 thick slices of rustic whole grain bread
1 ripe avocado 
1 lime, juiced
sea salt flakes (such as Maldone) 

1) Pre-heat the oven to 300 degrees Fahrenheit.  
2) Toss the cut tomatoes with salt and pepper and spread evenly over a cookie sheet pan. 
3) Bake the tomatoes for 20 minutes. 
4) Drizzle toasts with olive oil and bake 5-8 minutes, until golden brown.
5) De-skin the avocado and remove the pit. In a bowl, mash avocado with the lime juice and sea salt. It should have a chunky consistency. 
6) Spread avocado onto the toasts with the baked tomatoes. 
7) Garnish with thinly sliced basil and a sprinkle of sea salt flakes. 

Chef's Tip: I encourage you to vary the above recipe—e.g., steamed English peas mixed into the mashed avocado sprinkled with finely chopped pink radish and fresh mint. 

BASIL AROMA THERAPY - the blog

Basil is in its peak season locally from July until September. There is nothing like the aroma of fresh basil in the summer, am I right? I like to use fresh basil in pizzas. Further, it's a versatile sauce condiment. I suggest using it in the form of pesto to finish pastas, spread on grilled sourdough bread, or served along with grilled fish and meat. In addition, basil adds an extra pop of nutrients like Vitamins A, K, and C, magnesium, iron, potassium, and calcium. 
In the steamy summer heat I also like to use fresh basil in smoothies. Ripe pineapple, fresh basil along with ice cubes make a tasty, refreshing concoction. 

wild, blossoming basil

Pineapple & Basil Smoothie 
(recipe makes 16 ounces)
1 cup peeled pineapple, chopped
4 large basil leaves 
1 1/2 cups of ice cubes 
1 tablespoon agave syrup

1) Put all ingredients in a blender and process for 1 minute. 

In terms of pesto, where old and new comes together is with a mix-in like avocado—trust me, it’s a revelation. 

basil-walnut pesto

Avo-Walnut Pesto 
(recipe yields 1 cup)
1 ounce fresh basil leaves 
1 cup walnut pieces 
1/4 teaspoon sea salt 
5 black pepper grindings 
1/4 cup cold water 
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil 
1 ripe avocado, peeled and pit removed 

1) In a kitchen processor add walnuts and process. Turn processor on and off several times in 5-second intervals or use the pulse button. 
2) Add oil, water, basil, salt, and pepper. Process mixture for 1 minute. 
3) Add avocado and process for 30 seconds. Scrape the sides of the blender cup and process for 15 seconds. 

Chef’s Note

Traditionally, pesto often has cheese on the ingredient list; it adds an additional dimension. That flavor is known as umami flavor. I keep the pesto relatively light by not adding any cheese. Instead, I like to add two tablespoons nutritional yeast, which adds a cheesy flavor without the heaviness. 

Holy Basil 
You might have heard of holy basil, which has a more peppery, clove-like taste than its familiar Western counterpart, sweet basil. For sure, the two are closely related. It's the secret weapon against various ailments in Ayurvedic cooking. Similar to sweet basil, it can be used to flavor all types of savory dishes. I like to think of it more along the lines of spicy stir-frys and soups than Italian pasta sauces.

 

STREET CORN - the blog

roast corn cobs

Corn this time of the year tastes amazing. I eat it raw and plain with nothing on it further steaming brings out the natural sweetness and roasted sprinkled with sea salt and perhaps some butter equals vegetable candy.  To me corn is perfect for any day of the week in summer so long it’s fresh and local.

Nose to tail corn cooking
Let's take a look how to roast cook corn ears in the simplest and delicious way

ready getting ready k

First of all let’s keep the kitchen clean so I recommend not to peel the husks off. A little prep work is necessary and I’m in favor of cutting off the silk sticking out of the ends also the bottom of the corn. Any tips of leaves that are extending from the body of the corn will burn off anyway so remove them There’s nothing to worry about, but doing a little trimming beforehand makes sure that nothing will catch fire during roasting. Rinse the cobs with water to moisten the cobs. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit and lay the ears of corn directly on the oven rack positioned in the middle. I can fit eight cobs in my oven at one time. After 60 minutes check the cobs for doneness. You’ll know the corn is done if it gives a bit when you squeeze it if it doesn't continue to cook it for another 15 minutes.  Remove the corn from the oven and allow cooling for a few minutes. 

Next step is to shuck the cobs. I use an oven mitt or kitchen towel; hold the base of each ear of corn and shuck away the husk and silk. Be careful of very hot, escaping steam! The silk peels right off with the husk. If you'd like spread butter on the cops and sprinkle with sea salt and a few grindings of black pepper – that will do the trick. Also I like to serve  them with lime wedges. The acidify will balances the sweetness of the corn and bring make the corn more flavorful.

Chef’s tip: Sprinkle the corncobs with finely ground toasted almonds and freshly chopped parsley.

 

 

 

 

GOING NUTS ABOUT NOT-SO-CHEESE MAKING - the blog

’m a passionate nut lover and I jumped on the wagon of a no-animal-product-eating lifestyle some time ago just to try it out how I’d fair.  I have to admit I miss the delicious taste of cheese though.

Indeed, this blog post is not about traditional cheese from the perspective of culinary innovation, but I'm constantly learning to push the limits of food preparation and creativity with whole-plant-based foods. It really gives contemporary cuisine a run for the money.

Nut cheese making
Raw nut cheeses can be wonderful. They can be made 100% dairy free as well as free of preservatives, casein, gluten, soy, lactose, cholesterol and trans fat—perfect for all of us who worry about the intake of such.  Give it a try—you just might be surprised how much you like it. There is a good chance to find the big name, non-dairy staple cheeses, e.g., mozzarella, gouda, and parmesan, in assorted supermarkets. If you're into cooking and shy away from preservatives, it does make a big difference to prepare them yourself—and your taste buds will be thankful! Nut-based cheeses are made from alternative milks such cashew, almond, and macadamia nuts, or seeds like sunflowers. Depending on the milk and preparation, such nut milks can have several benefits, e.g., a boost in vitamins E and B12 from almond milk. Next, let’s talk about the basics of non-dairy cheese making.

Raw Cashews: Raw cashews are very popular because they have a neutral taste and create a very creamy texture. Other nuts and some seeds can be used instead, but will give the recipe a different flavor and texture.
Water and nut milks: Water is needed to create an agar gel—it requires boiling. Generally, nut milk is used for a more authentic and rich flavor, but it is not required. You could use water instead. Once you heat the nut milk it will no longer be a raw product, and the heating diminishes the nutritional content of the nut milk. 
Agar Powder: Agar is a sea vegetable.  It is a somewhat magical ingredient in the nut cheese-making process, because it gives the cheese its structure. You can use agar flakes instead of the powder, but you’ll have to use three times as much.  It is also more difficult to dissolve agar flakes in the small amount of water called for in recipes.
Tahini: It is made from ground sesame seeds. It adds a hardy flavor in the nut milk making.
Shapes & Molds: In terms of cheese shape there is flexibility. It's downright liberating that it can be made in just about any size and mold by pouring the nut base in differently shaped containers. I suggest moving quickly when pouring as it sets fast, but if you have them all lined up there is nothing to be worried about.

Cashew Wheel
(recipe yields one 8-inch wheel)
2 cups cashews + 1 cup luke-warm water
1 cup water 
1/2 cup nutritional yeast 
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon mustard powder
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 teaspoons miso paste
2 teaspoons sea salt 
2 teaspoon onion powder
1/4 teaspoon turmeric
Agar gel:
1 1/2 tablespoons agar powder
1 cup water

Soak the nuts in the water for 4 hours, then drain and rinse them. 

In a blender, combine the cashews, 1 cup water, nutritional yeast, lemon juice, miso, salt and spices. Process the mixture. In my Vita Prep blender that takes 3 minutes. Adjust th

Veg cheese!

e blending time accordingly. It should be smooth and creamy—make sure it does not have a gritty mouth-feel. 

Agar gel: In a small sauce pan over medium heat bring 1 cup of water to boil, then add the agar. With a whisk stir continuously until the agar totally dissolves. Typically that takes several minutes. If most of the water has evaporated and the agar did not dissolve add more water and continue stirring.

Add the cooked agar gel to the blended nut mixture and process for 1 minute. 

Quickly transfer the mixture into the molds. Agar will start to set as it cools rather quickly.

Place molds in the fridge, uncovered, for at least 30 minutes.

Chef’s Note: In my experience the nut cheese releases easily out of the mold once it has set.  It just pops out when inverting the mold carefully onto a plate. It keeps up to 4 days in the refrigerator.

 

Parmesan-like crumble 

(recipe yields 2 cups)

2 cups blanched almonds (no skin) 

3/4 cup nutritional yeast

1 teaspoon onion powder

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1 teaspoon sea salt

 

Combine all ingredients in a kitchen processor. Blend mixture for 2 minutes. 

Store mixture up to 2 weeks in the refrigerator.

Chef’s Tip: I like to add fresh herbs, such as finely chopped herbs like thyme, parsley or chives. 

 

 

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Water?

A WELCOME LEAFY GREEN ADDITION – the blog

If you’ve bought beets with their leaves still attached, don’t toss them without giving cooking them a try. Vendors at my local farmers market usually tear them off,  but the leaves of this root vegetable are often edible, and frequently overlooked—they either get thrown away or composted. I used to walk away with a big bag of beet greens—for free! Now, some of these sales-minded folks offer them separately as “magenta spinach,” or with similar names, and charge a premium price. Beet greens look similar to chard, and if you never tried them there is a good chance you’ll really like them. They have a savory taste profile that I like to describe as earthy and tangy with pleasant, chewy texture.
Beet greens are great for a side dish simple sautéed along with some slivers of garlic, but they’re also a nice addition to a colorful leafy salad. I like them shredded in rustic vegetable soups or wilted into a home-y pasta dish.

beet top smoothy

Lately I’ve even tasted beet greens in smoothies. As a rule of thumb I swap them in place of spinach, kale or collard greens in a recipe.

beet top salad

Beet top cooking
Next time you get your hands on a bunch of beet tops, try the following recipe.

Rigatoni with Beet Tops, Tomatoes and Crushed Walnuts
(recipe makes four portions)
2 tablespoons vegetable oil, such as safflower
1 onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, chopped
4 plum tomatoes, chopped
8 cups beet greens, ribs removed, rinsed and chopped into ½”-wide strips
black pepper from the mill
1 tablespoon sea salt and more for seasoning
1 pound rigatoni pasta
½ cup walnut pieces, browned in a skillet until toasty smelling 

1. In a gallon-sized pot, cook the chopped onion and garlic for 10 minutes on medium heat, stirring with a wooden spoon frequently. Season with pepper and salt. Add the tomatoes and cook for 5 minutes longer. Add the beet greens and continue to cook for 5 minutes. Transfer the mixture onto a plate.
2. Rinse the pot and heat 3 quarts of water with a tablespoon of salt.
3. Cook the rigatoni pasta for 8–10 minutes, or check the box for specific cooking instructions. Pasta should be cooked “al dente.” Strain the pasta in a colander, retaining 1 cup of the pasta cooking water.
4. In the same pot, reheat the beet green veggie mixture, then add the walnuts. Take the pot off the heat and add the warm pasta, olive oil and 3-5 tablespoons of the pasta cooking liquid. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.

Chef’s Note: “Al dente” refers to food that is cooked so it is still “firm to the bite,” but not soft. This is important in that pasta should be removed from the cooking liquid just before it has fully cooked through. You can actually see the uncooked inner layer (a thin white line) if you slice one rigatoni in half with a knife.

Chef’s Tip: Instead of piling the pasta high into bowls, I recommend plating the pasta in a one-inch layer on a wide plate and grating Parmesan cheese over the top.

Good to know…
While beet greens can be eaten raw, they’re better eaten in moderation because they contain a phytochemical called oxalic acid. Oxalic acid (oxalate) binds to calcium, making it hard for calcium to get absorbed. My preferred way to prepare beet tops is in their cooked state.

Dark leafy beet tops are full of many nutrients. Think calcium, iron, zinc, vitamins A, C and K, chlorophyll and folic acid.  Adding a source of vitamin C, such as squeezing some lemon juice over your raw greens or at the end of cooking, helps to absorb the
iron. 

beet tops getting a good rinse

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

SLAW OF THE MOMENT - the blog

In terms of slaw making, I dig the technique of salting cabbage to draw some of the water out, which further softens the cabbage. Once the cabbage is salted and squeezed of its natural moisture, it sucks up flavorful dressing. Not to be misleading—the cabbage still has a little crunch, but has been penetrated by the salting. Coleslaw is the perfect thing for topping burgers, tacos, sandwiches—really, anything off the grill—which is perfect for this time of the year and the 4th of July weekend coming up.

Red cabbage Slaw

Slaw Recipe
My version of the recipe is easy to make and creamy but light—it explodes with flavor and is ready to serve to a crowd at a summer BBQ. I like to keep leftovers in small, recycled grab-n-eat containers for easy snacking at any hour of the day over the next couple of days. Kept like this, the texture becomes softer and the flavors literally melt together. 

Red Cabbage & Cantaloupe Slaw 
(recipe makes 4 portions) 
1 1/2 cups honeydew melon, cut into 1/4-inch cubes 
1/2 small head red cabbage
1 jalapeño
3 stalks scallions, sliced 1/8-inch wide
2 limes, juiced
1 teaspoon sea salt 
5 black pepper grindings from the mill
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil 
1/2 cup coconut milk, unsweetened 

1) Remove tough outer leaves from the cabbage, then cut out tough core and throw out. Slice cabbage with a knife or a kitchen mandoline. 
2) Season cabbage with 1/2 teaspoon salt and let sit at room temperature. After 30 minutes, spin cabbage in a salad dryer or press between the palms of your hands—this will remove excess water from the cabbage. 
3) Cut the jalapeño in half, then remove and throw out the seeds and white inner walls. Cut jalapeño into 1/8-inch cubes. 
4) In a bowl, combine cabbage, melon, jalapeño, scallions, lime juice, 1/2 teaspoon salt, pepper, coconut milk and olive oil, then toss. 

Red Cabbage slaw with cantaloupe and pistachio nuts

Chef’s Note: Herbs make a terrific addition to a slaw recipe. Add them finely cut, about two tablespoons of the following will suffice: cilantro, parsley, basil or tarragon. 

 

 

VEGGIE BURGERS - the blog

Gone are the days, it seems, when a veggie burger was almost a shameful dark spot on a menu. Sure, a few restaurants had a good chef and they fixed their own, but many defaulted to a dry, mass-produced patty. That burger might well have been made of natural ingredients of sorts, e.g., mushrooms, oats, black beans and brown rice, but the changes they underwent while collecting ice crystals in the freezer for an unknown period of time were pretty big. Eventually, the patties would be lucky enough to be the served to the occasional hippie showing up at a restaurant. 

But gone are these days! Veggie burgers have become super popular on menus and they're even in their own category. Sure, at times there is vigorous debate over how much a veggie burger should mimic the look and taste of real beef. I leave this up for discussion once people have tasted it. 

In my case, I like the framework, the challenge, of trying to make a veggie burger that tastes good (and doesn’t fall apart) and that tends to free up a customer’s imagination. So at times I omit beets, which are usually added to give a patty a color reminiscent of rare steak, but then there are a good number of people that feel like it looks too much like meat.

Making a vegetable burger
There are different ways I go about creating veggie burger recipes, and to be honest it still is about exploration. An ongoing challenge is that the patties end up either to too dry or too wet. It has to do with knowing which seeds, nuts and vegetables to mash and which ones to leave whole.  There are versions I have where I’ve been adding a touch of sweetness and stickiness via prunes, onions, carrot or sweet potatoes. For bulk, I add French lentils, quinoa, oats, chickpeas, beans and brown rice, and vegetables such as chopped and sautéed cauliflower and mushrooms add richness. Sometimes, to deepen the char-grill flavor, I smoke the patties and also add a small amount of smoked sweet paprika for a similar flavor note. In my experience, steamed tempeh and ground nuts add a nubby meat-like texture, and sunflower seeds and wheat berries worked well too.  You might ask if a burger is not made with an animal protein, which makes it stick together, how do you prevent it from falling apart in the bun? I recommend not to throw in the usual binders such as egg and bread-crumbs, a la meatloaf. Yes, indeed most of the elements that go into a homemade veggie burger (vegetables, beans and tofu) are high in moisture, which can lead to a soggy patty that’s unpleasant to eat and nearly impossible to flip on the grill without it falling apart. So, sometimes I reduce the moisture by roasting the ingredients before shaping the patties.

Yummy veggie burger

Can’t do without condiments
Condiments, like mayonnaise, make burgers succulent and almost juicy. If you can't do without the usual condiments smothering your burgers then go the whole nine yards and mix ketchup, yellow mustard and mayonnaise or veganaise in equal amounts. Personally, I favor the following sauce along with thinly sliced avocado. A quarter avocado per burger is usually the right amount.

Special Sauce
2 tablespoon tahini
3 tablespoon Dijon-style grain mustard 
1 tablespoon dill, freshly chopped 
1 tablespoon agave 

Too fragile to put the patties directly onto the grill. I like to use an aluminum pan to get a nice sear on the patties.

Killer Veg Burger 
For the patties:
(recipe yields 4 burgers) 

1/4 cup olive oil
1 onion, diced
1 clove garlic, chopped 
1 cup diced fresh mushrooms, such as oyster or Portobello mushroom
1 teaspoon sea salt 
10 grindings black pepper from the mill 
1 teaspoon smoked paprika powder 
1/8 teaspoon chili powder 
1 15-ounce can pinto beans, drained and rinsed with water
2 tablespoons vegetable oil, such as safflower (for cooking the patties)
2 teaspoons whole grain flour  

Burger fixings
4 1/4-inch thick steak tomato slices 
4 butter lettuce leaves 
4 sweet onion rings (I recommend Vidalia onions) 
4 burger buns, such as potato rolls or whole wheat buns 

1. In a bowl combine olive oil, onions, garlic, mushrooms, smoked paprika, chili, salt, pepper, mushrooms and pinto beans, then toss. 
2. Spread mixture on a sheet pan in an even, 1/2”-thick layer. Cook mixture in the oven for 25-30 minutes. At this point the top of the mixture should have a roasted appearance, then cool on the kitchen counter for 30 minutes. 
3. Mash mixture with a fork or process in a food processor until chunky.
4. Shape the mixture into patties.
5. Dust burgers with the flour. Cook patties for 2 minutes on each side in vegetable oil on the highest heat setting. With a spatula lift patties onto a kitchen paper towel.
6. Assemble burgers: Toast bun in the oven or in a skillet, smear 1 tablespoon of the special sauce over the bottom bun, add 2-3 onion rings, add patty, tomato slice and lettuce, then smear 1 tablespoon special sauce onto the lid bun and the burger. 

VEGETABLES FOR A SWEET TOOTH - the blog

I have a sweet tooth and I certainly like a mean carrot cake. In general, I like to wrap my head around ways to get another serving of vegetables in, even when they're in a dessert. This way I know that I'm getting nutrition along with my sweet snack cravings.

brownie stack

For years I have been baking amazing cakes with naturally sweet parsnips, carrots, beets, butternut squash, pumpkins and sweet potatoes. Occasionally I sneak in an avocado for a healthy fat option and leave out processed oils and butter. That makes guilt-free snacking, and indeed it’s a terrific way to bridge me to my next meal.

Sweet potatoes in a brownie? 
Below I'm listing my favorite brownie recipe at the moment. These brownies simply have everything I like: an intense, dark, super chocolate-y flavor followed by subtle sweetness. Also they have a dense but super moist and pleasantly chewy texture. To finish, the brownies are topped with a creamy and decadently smooth, melt-in-your-mouth frosting.
They're at their best when they are completely chilled.

freshly baked brownie

SWEET POTATO BROWNIES
Makes (16) 2x2-inch brownies.

Brownie:
1 cup cold sweet potato puree*
1 ripe avocado, fork-mashed 
½ cup apple sauce, unsweetened 
¼ cup date paste
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
4 eggs
1/4 cup coconut flour
2 tablespoons arrowroot flour
½ cup cacao powder
1 teaspoon ancho chile powder, optional 
½ teaspoon sea salt 
1 teaspoon baking soda
½ cup raw pecans, chopped

Icing;
¼ cup date paste
½ cup hazelnut butter
¼ cup cacao powder
2 tablespoons honey
½ cup full fat coconut milk
Pinch sea salt 

1) Preheat oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit. 
2) Grease a 9-inch square baking pan with coconut oil. Line pan with parchment paper. Leave enough extra paper to extend over the sides.
3) In a mixing bowl combine sweet potato puree, avocado, apple sauce, date paste, and vanilla and mix with a whisk until smooth. Add cacao powder and mix smooth. Add eggs and mix smooth.
4) Add coconut flour, arrowroot flour, salt, ancho chile (optional), and baking soda and stir until well combined. Lastly, add pecans.
5) Transfer mixture to the prepared baking pan.
6) Bake mixture for approximately 25 minutes. A toothpick inserted in the center of the cake should come out almost clean at this point. 
7) Cool pan for 15 minutes on the kitchen counter. 
8) With a small knife cut the baked brownie, along the sides of the baking pan. Inverse the whole brownie pan onto a sheet pan. Chill in the refrigerator for an hour. 
8) Prepare the icing by adding all the ingredients into a mixing bowl and mix until smooth. 
9) Pour icing over brownies and spread evenly over the brownie with a spatula.
10) Cool brownies in the fridge and chill completely, at least 8 hours or overnight. 
11) Cut brownies into 2-inch squares.

Chef’s Note: Making the sweet potato puree is easy. Wrap sweet potatoes in foil and bake at 375 degree Fahrenheit for about 60 minutes or until soft when pierced with a knife. Let them cool on the kitchen counter for 20 minutes, then remove foil and peel. Puree them with a whisk in a bowl. 

 

TESTING THE WATERS - the blog ...

 

TESTING THE WATERS - the blog
If you’re like me and you get bored of drinking water, there’s a better way to quench your thirst and keep you hydrated. Indeed, last week we had the first day of the season when the thermometer climbed above 90 degrees. That seemed like a good reason to come up with a more interesting way to enhance my water-sipping habit. By now, most of us understand that the average vitamin-infused water is not all that it promises. Undoubtedly, many brands contain artificial flavoring, coloring and synthetic sugars, and in addition, often these waters are blown out of proportion--you might as well sip on filtered tap water and save the buck!

Surely, homemade infused water has me sipping throughout the day, and the best part is it suits my palate and feels nourishing. In addition, these concoctions are super simple to make. Even my kiddo daughter asks for it frequently, especially if a floating strawberry lends its gentle pink hue to the water in her ballerina sipping bottle. That defiantly supports her sipping sugarless beverages, and in addition it puts a big smile on her face.
Yes, infused waters can upgrade the flavor. Simply let a variety of fruits, herbs and sometimes spices sit in water in the refrigerator for a few hours or overnight. In this way an appealing alternative to plain old water is created. It defiantly works for me!

So how beneficial is that water?
While there is some minimal nutritional value from each infused fruit and herb, you do not ingest fiber, nutrients or vitamins as you would when blending fruits/veggies and drinking them. The trick is to buy a few 16-ounce bottles, fill them with a few slices of fruits, veggies and herbs, and sip your water and then nibble on those ingredients, which is super refreshing.  And just like that, there’s one serving of fruit and vegetables! One serving usually equals ½ cup.

 
The truth is that the main health benefit of infused waters is simple--hydration! Even if infused water is no nutritional powerhouse, it can't be dismissed. Hydration is critical to a healthy functioning body and brain! How much water you should sip on on a daily basis is where the opinions differ, and it also depends on your daily activity and your body type. It varies widely, but can help with the following:
- transporting nutrients and oxygen
- helping think clearly
- keeping skin young and buff looking
- regulating body temperature
- hydration after drinking coffee or alcohol
- helping keep muscles working properly
- a glass of water before a meal makes you feel more satiated, lubricated and helps digestion.

 

You can use my rule of thumb: for each pound of body weight, drink an ounce of water.

Easy breezy combos
It’s a good idea to get inspired by seasonal fruits and herbs that are available at a farmer’s market or perhaps local in your close-by supermarket.
Here are a few of my favorite combinations I have been sipping on:

The following guidelines are for approximately 16 ounces of flavor-infused water. Keep your concoctions infusing for at least four hours in the refrigerator before serving, or even better, leave to marinate overnight in the refrigerator. It will be good for up to three days.

 
Cool Cucumber
2 slices cucumber, 1/8-inch thick
2 slices, ginger, 1/8-inch thick
5 fresh mint leaves  

15 ounces filtered water

Peach & Rosemary Cooler
3 slices peach, 1/4-inch thick
1-inch sprig of rosemary

15 ounces filtered water

 

Lavender & Blueberries
¼ cup blueberries

1 tablespoon food-grade, dried lavender

 

Instructions: In a pot, combine lavender and ½ cup of water, then bring to boil and combine with other ingredients.

 

…and lastly, my daughter’s favorite….

 

Pink Ballerina
3 strawberries, cut in half

1 slice lemon, 1/8-inch thick
2 fresh basil leaves

½ teaspoon maple syrup

15 ounces filtered water

Chef's Note: Often, citrus peels impart a somewhat bitter flavor. If you mind that, cut the peel off with a knife.

Chef's Tip: It's a good idea to install a water filter on your faucet to have impurities taken out.

 

TESTING Lke me and you get bored of drinking water, there’s a better way to quench your thirst and keep you hydrated. Indeed, last week we had the first day of the season when the thermometer climbed above 90 degrees. That seemed like a good reason to come up with a more interesting way to enhance my water-sipping habit. By now, most of us understand that the average vitamin-infused water is not all that it promises. Undoubtedly, many brands contain artificial flavoring, coloring and synthetic sugars, and in addition, often these waters are blown out of proportion--you might as well sip on filtered tap water and save the buck!

...juiceparade

Surely, homemade infused water has me sipping throughout the day, and the best part is it suits my palate and feels nourishing. In addition, these concoctions are super simple to make. Even my kiddo daughter asks for it frequently, especially if a floating strawberry lends its gentle pink hue to the water in her ballerina sipping bottle. That defiantly supports her sipping sugarless beverages, and in addition it puts a big smile on her face.
Yes, infused waters can upgrade the flavor. Simply let a variety of fruits, herbs and sometimes spices sit in water in the refrigerator for a few hours or overnight. In this way an appealing alternative to plain old water is created. It defiantly works for me!

So how beneficial is that water?
While there is some minimal nutritional value from each infused fruit and herb, you do not ingest fiber, nutrients or vitamins as you would when blending fruits/veggies and drinking them. The trick is to buy a few 16-ounce bottles, fill them with a few slices of fruits, veggies and herbs, and sip your water and then nibble on those ingredients, which is super refreshing.  And just like that, there’s one serving of fruit and vegetables! One serving usually equals ½ cup.

 
The truth is that the main health benefit of infused waters is simple--hydration! Even if infused water is no nutritional powerhouse, it can't be dismissed. Hydration is critical to a healthy functioning body and brain! How much water you should sip on on a daily basis is where the opinions differ, and it also depends on your daily activity and your body type. It varies widely, but can help with the following:
- transporting nutrients and oxygen
- helping think clearly
- keeping skin young and buff looking
- regulating body temperature
- hydration after drinking coffee or alcohol
- helping keep muscles working properly
- a glass of water before a meal makes you feel more satiated, lubricated and helps digestion.

 

You can use my rule of thumb: for each pound of body weight, drink an ounce of water.

Easy breezy combos
It’s a good idea to get inspired by seasonal fruits and herbs that are available at a farmer’s market or perhaps local in your close-by supermarket.
Here are a few of my favorite combinations I have been sipping on:

The following guidelines are for approximately 16 ounces of flavor-infused water. Keep your concoctions infusing for at least four hours in the refrigerator before serving, or even better, leave to marinate overnight in the refrigerator. It will be good for up to three days.

 
Cool Cucumber
2 slices cucumber, 1/8-inch thick
2 slices, ginger, 1/8-inch thick
5 fresh mint leaves  

15 ounces filtered water

Peach & Rosemary Cooler
3 slices peach, 1/4-inch thick
1-inch sprig of rosemary

15 ounces filtered water

 

Lavender & Blueberries
¼ cup blueberries

1 tablespoon food-grade, dried lavender

 

Instructions: In a pot, combine lavender and ½ cup of water, then bring to boil and combine with other ingredients.

 

…and lastly, my daughter’s favorite….

 

Pink Ballerina
3 strawberries, cut in half

1 slice lemon, 1/8-inch thick
2 fresh basil leaves

½ teaspoon maple syrup

15 ounces filtered water

Chef's Note: Often, citrus peels impart a somewhat bitter flavor. If you mind that, cut the peel off with a knife.

Chef's Tip: It's a good idea to install a water filter on your faucet to have impurities taken out.

 

SORT OF UNGLAMOROUS FOOD – the blog

I seek out food that’s nourishing and comforting. I especially love whole grains.
There is a dish my Indian friends have been cooking at our gatherings and I never knew what to think of it until I started asking questions. They call the dish kitchari and it’s an easygoing, traditional Indian comfort food. A one-pot dish of grains and legumes scented with spices and cooked until each component breaks down into the others. In a way, I compare it to risotto since it has a similar texture. I was told in India, kitchari is home cooking—a dish everyone knows and everyone knows how to make. It’s sort of unglamorous food and what you make when you’re in a hurry or when you’re sick. It gets made out of necessity. But at the same time, it’s filling, nutritious and supremely healthful at the same time. It is India’s chicken soup for the soul. In Hindi, kitchari means “a mess” or “all mixed up”—indeed unglamorous!

kitchari with tomatoes and basil

So how do you cook it?
Kitchari comes together largely in one pot and turns out flavors far more complex than you’d expect because of the rather long cooking time. Recipes are endlessly variable and all my Indian companions seem to have their own mix-and-match recipes for all manner of greens, grains and dals. A dal is a dried pulse, a.k.a., the edible seeds of a legume (plant with a pod) that has been split. Some examples are dried peas, beans, lentils, chickpeas, soybeans… 

At its simplest and most traditional, kitchari employs long-grain white rice, which may be substituted with brown rice. The other traditional part is tiny green split and skinned mung beans. When cooked long enough it becomes a savory porridge-like stew, easy on the palate and the digestive system.

Most often, kitchari is fragrant because of the added spices. It is seasoned often with a generous amount of ginger and spiced with mustard seed, curry leaves and cumin. Traditionally, it is often enriched with plenty of ghee. Ghee is made by cooking butter on low heat until the fat divides from the milk solids. The milk solids get ladled off and discarded. The result is a clear, golden-brown liquid.

 Tricks that assure kitchari's success
-       Lentils’ starchy properties are especially valued in a kitchari dish. The starch provides creaminess that is essential to kitchari. Millet, amaranth and quinoa, nutty and earthy-tasting, are lovely in kitchari, but they don’t contribute much binding starch on their own. You want a creamy, porridge-like texture.

-       Toast rice or other grains with the oil and spices for the first few minutes of cooking—Indians call this tarka—before adding water to bring out their flavor, then cook the grains.

-       Add vegetables like broccoli, cauliflower, carrots, turnips, shreds of kale, asparagus and peas in spring; yellow squash and green zucchini, green beans and tomatoes are perfect in summer; and winter squash in the colder seasons. All make a tasty kitchari dish. The vegetables should be added midway through or near the end of cooking, depending on their sturdiness.

kitchari

Brown Rice & Quinoa Kitchari with Asparagus and Kale
(recipe makes four servings)

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
¼ cup chopped ginger (no need to peel)
5 bay leaves
2 teaspoons mustard seeds 
10 grindings black pepper from the mill
1 teaspoon cinnamon
2 cardamom pods
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
2 teaspoons sea salt 
1 cup brown rice
1/2 cup quinoa
14 cups water, plus more as needed

 2 cups asparagus, cut 2” off the bottom and discard, then chop into ¼”-long pieces4 cups baby spinach, rinsed
10 leaves fresh basil, chopped

1. In a gallon-sized pot heat the oil on medium heat.
2. Add the onion and cook for 2 minutes, then add ginger and all spices and cook for 2 minutes longer, stirring once with a wooden spoon. The mixture will be very fragrant at this point.
3. Stir in the rice and quinoa. Cook for 2 minutes then add the water. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and cover with a tight-fitting lid. Cook for 50 minutes, until the water is mostly absorbed and the rice is tender. The kitchari should have a porridge-like consistency at this point; if not, add up to 1 cup more water.
4. Add the asparagus and cook 10 minutes longer.
5. Discard the bay leaves.
6. Put spinach and basil into four bowls, then ladle the kitchari over it. 

 

Chef’s Tip: Put a dollop of yogurt or a drift of chopped avocado on top of your kitchari—it makes a fine garnish.

Good to Know: Kitchari can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days. Reheat on the stove top, adding water as needed.

 

BLESSED FOOD MAKES A DIFFERENCE - the food

Recently I was invited to a food blessing ceremony. My yogi friends explained to me that it is called prasad, which is a Vedic ritual where food is offered to a deity (e.g., Durga, Ganesha, or Krishna). Later, the blessed food is distributed in the deity’s name to the followers. The prasad is considered to have the deity’s blessing residing within the offered food. The ceremony has a rich history of meaning in the Sanskrit tradition. I was told that the person who takes prasad should consider himself or herself very lucky—it is the most sacred object for a devotee.

The offerings were prepared by an Ayurveda chef. It was fascinating to hear his views on food. Following is my recap of that conversation and some research:

 Ayurveda medicine is one of the world's oldest holistic healing systems. It was developed thousands of years ago in India. In the U.S., Ayurveda is considered a form of complementary and alternative medicine. Modern Ayurveda medicine is considered pseudoscientific. 
It is based on the belief that health and wellness depend on balance between the mind, body, and spirit. The primary focus of Ayurvedic medicine is to promote good health, rather than fight disease. Although laboratory experiments suggest it is possible that some substances in Ayurveda might be developed into effective treatments, there is no evidence that any are effective by themselves.
In the Ayurveda philosophy, three elements combine in the human body to form three life forces or energies, called doshas. They control how your body works.

The three doshas are:
- Vata dosha (space and air)
- Pitta dosha (fire and water)
- Kapha dosha (water and earth)




One dosha is usually more dominant then the other. It is believed that your chances of getting sick are linked to the balance of these doshas, and an imbalance results in disease. One Ayurvedic view is that the doshas are balanced when they are equal to each other, while another view is that each human possesses a unique combination of the doshas, which define this person's temperament and characteristics. In either case, it says that each person should modulate their behavior or environment to increase or decrease the doshas and maintain their natural state.

Vata Dosha
Vata dosha is thought to be the most powerful of all three doshas. It controls very basic body functions, such as how cells divide. It also controls: your mind, breathing, blood flow, heart function and the ability to get rid of bodily waste through the intestines.

Things that can disrupt this dosha are: eating too much dried fruit, eating too soon after a previous meal and staying up too late. If vata dosha is your main life force, you are more likely to develop: anxiety, asthma, heart disease, nervous system disorders, rheumatoid arthritis and skin problems.

Pitta Dosha
Pitta dosh controls: digestion, metabolism and hormones linked to appetite. Things that can disrupt this dosha are: eating too much sour or spicy foods, fatigue or spending too much time in the sun. If pitta dosha is your main life force, you are more likely to develop: negative emotions, anger, Crohn's disease, heart disease, heartburn after eating, high blood pressure and infections.

Kapha Dosha
Kapha dosha controls: muscle growth, strength and stability, weight and the immune system. Things that can disrupt this dosha are: daydreaming, eating after your stomach is full, too much salt, too many sweets and greed. If kapha dosha is your main life force, you are more likely to develop: breathing disorders (e.g., asthma), diabetes, cancer and feeling sick after eating).

The fascinating part is that Hindus figured out 5000 years ago how to eat a balanced diet. In my opinion the Ayurveda diet needs to be adjusted to someone’s a person’s particular location, since too much commercially produced dairy— e.g., ghee (clarified butter) and yogurt— in this country, with all its chemical additives, is somewhat susceptible hazardous for the overall well-being.

Ayurveda Spring Salad

rhubarb

Watercress & Asparagus Salad with Rhubarb on a Bed of Brown Rice
(recipe yields 4 salads)

1 bunch watercress, rinsed, with the thick stems removed, and dried in a salad spinner
1 head leaf salad such as red leaf, oak leaf or butter, rinsed and spun dry
2 cups chopped rhubarb
½ cup water
3 tablespoons agave
½ teaspoon sea salt
1 cup cooked brown short grain rice
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
2 lemon, juiced
4 large leaves basil, chopped
sea salt
black pepper from a mill

1. Combine rhubarb, water, agave, and salt in a pot and cook covered with a lid for 20 minutes on medium heat. At this point the rhubarb has the texture of a thick puree. Chill puree in the refrigerator.
2. Distribute the brown rice onto 4 plates and spread it over the bottom of the plate with a spoon in a circle. Add a tablespoon of rhubarb onto each rice circle.
3. Tear the lettuce into mouth-sized pieces and toss with lemon juice, olive oil, salt and pepper, and the rest of the chilled rhubarb dressing.
4. Chop basil roughly and sprinkle over the rhubarb and rice.
5. Mount salad on top of the rice. 

Chef’s Tip: Basil is a magic herb and has endless uses in Ayurvedic cooking. 

 

MILLENNIAL SANDWICH - the blog

Surely you known the classic sandwiches, e.g., PB&J, turkey sammy, grilled cheese, multiple layered club sandwich builds, and the like, which mostly come in a square format. Other sandwiches can be elongated concoctions, e.g., hero, lobster roll, or endless Bahn Mi sandwich invasion and there are wraps. In my humble opinion a wrap is the total opposite of an artfully constructed sandwich.

ciabatta bread

Choice of bread
You may ask yourself, what type of bread is best for my sandwich? Let me tell you, I'm a sucker for sourdough ciabatta rolls that tend to be soft with a mild tangy flavor. With any bread, it is important that it is strong enough to hold the ingredients together without falling apart in someone's hands. I prefer a whole-wheat version over a refined type, e.g., white bread or a butter laden brioche bun. I make a few exceptions though, for instance, when it comes to lobster rolls, I'm going classic and want the bun to be New England style and buttered.

Some types of breads, e.g., baguettes, have a hard crust that has the tendency to scratch the inside of your mouth. In such case, I opt-out from toasting at all. Freshness of the bread is the key, even if it is a hot dog bun. Toasted or simply touched by heat for a minute in the oven is often of benefit. Twice a day freshly baked baguette won't need any heat treatment because of its crunchy freshness. That said I enjoy when sandwich ingredients are at room temperature. At that temperature the flavors can be fully realized on the tongs pallet. A few minutes in the toaster or in the oven does often wonders to a sandwich.

Bite-sized
I prefer ingredients that are thinly shaved or cut into small chunks, including lettuce. In this way, the sandwich does not fall apart during eating

I'm a sucker for PB&J but any peanut butter puts a smile on my face that is smothered with a wholesome, natural sugar containing spread or jelly. In addition, this sandwich can be fixed quickly, with ingredients that most people keep on hand in the house. In my house, I make sure that the peanut butter is spread on both pieces of the bread because I don't enjoy when the bread gets sticky on the outside because of the jelly soaking through the bread. I often slice a ripe banana instead of jelly - truly awesome!

Down to business
Indeed, the subject of sandwich is quite endless and currently, I enjoy the following version of a warm peanut butter version. If you cannot eat peanut butter, for example due to allergies, substitute it with almond or cashew butter. This recipe combines my favorite sandwiches together. I believe that once you taste it, you'll be hooked! Let me know.

grilled cheese & apple sandwich

Baked Peanut Butter & Cheese
(makes 1 sandwich)

1 ciabatta roll
3 tablespoons peanut butter
6 slices, 1/16" thick of an acidic apple such as Granny Smith
4 slices muenster or cheddar cheese, 1/8 thick or 2 ounces

1) Slice the ciabatta roll horizontally. Toast the roll in the oven at 400F for 5 minutes.
2) Smear peanut butter on the cut side of the roll.
3) The apple should be sliced very thinly; I use my mandolin slicer for that. Lay apple slices evenly in a thin manner out over the peanut butter and then follow with the cheese.
4) Bake in the oven for 4 - 5 minutes. At this point, the cheese should be shinny and be very soft but not starting to melt.
5) Press the two sandwich pieces gently together.

Chefs Note: My 5 1/2 year old daughter loves it too. For her, I slice the sandwich into 1" thick pieces.

 

 

RIGHT NOW ASPARAGUS - THE BLOG

Asparagus is harvested for a six- to seven-week period from late April or early May through mid- to late June. It grows best in sandy, well-drained soil. Thanks to Long Island and New Jersey we have a plentiful supply in NYC.

white aspargus salad

Historically, asparagus has been used as a vegetable and medicine, with its delicate flavor and diuretic properties. The ancient Greek mentione asparagus as a beneficial herb during the second century A.D. Asparagus is also supposed to have aphrodisiacal power and counteracts fatigue. I bet that also has to do with the uplifting spring season.

green asparagus early in the morning

A Fine Vegetable
The finest texture and the strongest and yet most delicate taste is in the tips, which my Parisian chef colleagues referred to as delectable points d'amour ("love tips”). I grew up in Austria, not too far from many German cities that hold annual Spargelfest (asparagus festivals) this time of the year. There, the majority of asparagus is the white kind. They celebrate the harvest of asparagus like we do here in the U.S. with pumpkin festivals in the fall. The Bavarian town of Schwetzingen claims to be the "Asparagus Capital of the World,” and during its festival an asparagus queen is crowned. Further, there is a competition to find the fastest asparagus peeler in the region. Eating asparagus with lots of regional beer and local Riesling resembles an Oktoberfest-like atmosphere – it’s tons of fun!

green asparagus & tomato salad

Couscous & Asparagus Salad with Avocado, and Lemon
(recipe yields 4 entree-sized portions)
1 bunch/1 pound thin asparagus, a.k.a. pencil asparagus
2 lemons, juiced
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
8 grindings black pepper from the mill
8 oz whole wheat pearl couscous
1/4 teaspoon turmeric powder
1 teaspoon sea salt
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/2 cup dried cherries soaked in warm water for 5 minutes
2 avocados 

1) With a knife, cut off about 2 inches of the tough bottom of the asparagus. Cut asparagus into 1/8" pieces on a diagonal, and toss with lemon juice and pepper.
2) In a gallon-sized pot, bring 8 cups of water to a boil and season with 1 teaspoon of salt and turmeric. Add couscous to the boiling water and cook for 11-15 minutes covered with a lid. Couscous should be soft at this point—if not, cook for 2 minutes longer.
Drain couscous through a colander and rinse with cold water under the faucet for 15 seconds. At this point, the couscous should still be warm.
3) Combine couscous with the marinated asparagus and add olive oil and cherries. Taste, and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
4) Halve the avocados, remove the pits and cut into quarter wedges. Remove avocado peel and throw out, then cut wedges into 1/2-inch pieces. Toss avocado gently into the asparagus/couscous mixture.

Chef's Tip: For a variation of the above recipe, cut one red onion into 1/2-inch thick circles, then toss with olive oil, sea salt and black pepper. Cook on a char grill for 4 minutes and toss into the couscous/asparagus mixture. Top salad with shaved Parmesan. You can do the same with ramps instead of the red onion. 

RAMPing up for Spring - THE BLOG

Spring season is among us and lots of people tend to be freaking out over the arrival of ramps.
Today, I received my first shipment of ramps of the year for a steep $20+ per pound. But, their price didn't damper my excitement at all—they're totally worth it.

Ramps have arrived!

Ramps what?
In the coming weeks, if you're strolling through a local farmer’s market in the Northeast you won't miss ramps because of the garlicky scent in the air. The pungent aroma of ramps is a true sign that spring has arrived in the plant world. Ramps are a perennial wild onion that has to be foraged. Therefore, it's in high demand—grab them as long as supply lasts. They'll be gone before you know it, since the season lasts for only about four weeks.

Ramps have a pearly white tuber, burgundy stem, and wide floppy green leaves, which all resemble a picturesque lily. Ramps can be used in a number of ways, similar to onions. Ramps are great made into a pesto, grilled, blanched, pickled, sautéed, and combined with just about everything. They make a statement in spring soups even if you don't see them—though their flavor is very much noticeable.

ramps in abundance

Indeed, I prefer to prepare them cooked all the time, since when they're raw their pungent aroma almost certainly will overpower other subtler flavors in a dish. Further, reeking of raw spring garlic does not make a good conversation partner.

To start off, I suggest a simple sautéed ramp dish that lets the garlicky flavor shine.


Sautéed Ramps
(recipe yields 4 portions)
3 bunches ramps
2 tablespoons vegetable oil, such as grape seed or sunflower seed oil
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
5 black pepper grindings from the mill

1) Cut roots off the ramps. Fill a large bowl with cold water, then place ramps in the water. Swish them around to remove as much dirt as possible, then remove them from the bowl and continue repeating the same process a second time.
2) Place the ramps on kitchen paper towel to dry them. If you have a salad spinner, dry the ramps with it.
3) Heat a deep gallon-sized pot on high heat, then add the ramps. The heat will dry off most of the excess water, and takes about 2 minutes. Now add the vegetable oil. Cook ramps for 4-5 minutes, stirring 3-4 times so as not to torch the ramps.
4) Season ramps with salt and pepper. Ramps are done when the bulbous, white part of the plant is soft—if not, cook for another minute.

...now that you have the basic sautéing technique mastered, dive into the following preparation suggestions and enjoy them so long the ramp season lasts.
-  Add a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil over the cooked ramps and sprinkle with 1 oz of shaved Parmesan cheese
- swap out ramps for garlic in recipes (e.g., asparagus soup, spring pea soup)—it will add an uplifting spring scent to your soup recipes
- work the sautéed ramps (above recipe) into your sandwich creations (e.g., grilled sourdough with goat cheese, tomatoes and ramps, toasted multigrain roll with avocado, grilled red peppers and ramps)
- serve along grilled, fattier cuts of steak (e.g. flank steak or rib eye)—you can't go wrong with the garlicky fragrance of the ramps here
- serve sautéed ramps along with char-flamed fish such as salmon or swordfish with grilled lemon
- sauté ramps with string beans, curly Savoy cabbage, or kale instead of garlic

If you're a person who enjoys pickling, it’s a great way to extend the ramp season for. I suggest going with a basic pickling recipe without fancy fanfare. The ramps will bring along all the flavor you need.

VEGETABLE MORSELS - the blog

roasted asparagus, fennel and spring onions

I have been eating lots of roasted vegetables over the past two weeks. As spring temperatures are kicking in and the daylight hours are getting longer, naturally my diet changes too. Hence, I have been enjoying roasted vegetables cooled instead of hot.

roasted rainbow carrots

It all started out by repurposing leftover vegetables from the day before dinner in a sort of roasted veggie salad. I have been reinventing a number of my warm vegetable dishes (e.g., roasted fennel, skillet-roasted carrots, three-color cauliflower, sautéed kale & garlic, etc.) to delicious vegetable delights for consumption for the next day. A squeeze of lemon, extra virgin olive oil, salt, pepper, and fresh herbs adding vitality is often enough to give it enough flavor. The basic idea remains the same--a rainbow veggie salad with focus on gently roasted veggies, omitting salad greens. I love tender lettuce greens with different flavor profiles, such as peppery arugula or bitter greens like endive and radicchio, but I also enjoy the roasted and chilled vegetable medley eating experience that does not require any leafy greens. It lends more bite and substance, and another plus is that it can be prepared ahead of time. If the next day does not provide enough time for cooking, simply roast your veggies the night before and chill them in the fridge overnight. Also, if you work in an office job, bring it for lunch and munch away.



I brought roasted green asparagus to my family gathering over the weekend. It was garnished with shaved Parmesan and chive blossoms--a winner.

Roasted Vegetable Cooking
Vegetable-wise, we have the most exiting vegetable spring season ahead of us:
different colored carrots, spring onions, slender scallions, juicy fennel bulbs, bunch beets, ramps (a.k.a. spring garlic with a tense aroma), exotic mushrooms (such as morels, or cultivated cousins such as shiitake, portabella or button mushrooms), skin-on new potatoes, and beautiful rainbow chard are all to be found in the next weeks to come. Roasting such veggies to the point of softness with black-charred edges, caramelized to perfection makes a dish a success--chilled roasted veggies are back on my menu!

Roasted Vegetable Salad
(recipe makes 4 portions)
2 pounds mixed vegetables (see above for vegetables)
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1 lemon, juiced
3 tablespoons rice vinegar
1/2 teaspoon sea salt, and more to taste
5 turns black pepper grindings from a mill
1 tablespoon fresh herbs like rosemary or thyme, chopped

1. Pre-heat oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit.
2. Prep veggies by chopping off the stems and slicing into bite-sized pieces.
3. Add all your veggies in a large mixing bowl and toss with the oil, vinegar, salt, pepper, and herbs.
4. Transfer veggies to an oiled baking sheet.
5. Roast vegetables for 20 minutes or until veggies are tender. I suggest broiling the vegetables for about 1-2 minutes before removing them from the oven. It will char the edges of your vegetables and make them super flavorful.
6. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. You could serve these veggies warm, but for the sake of our salad, we will chill them in the refrigerator overnight.
6. Assembly the roasted vegetables in serving bowls. No additional dressing is needed since the veggies are so full of flavor from the oil and acids.

Chef’s tip: If you prefer more flavor, mix a drizzle of extra virgin oil with grainy Dijon mustard and spoon over your chilled vegetables. I love eating vegetables prepared this way with grilled sourdough bread.

 

SEDUCTIVE PISTOU SALAD - the blog

Pistou is a Provençal cold sauce made from garlic, fresh basil, and extra virgin olive oil. It is somewhat similar to pesto, although it's made without nuts and often without cheese. Then again, modern versions of the recipe include grated cheese such as parmesan, pecorino or similar hard cheeses. Also along the same lines, a somewhat similar sauce is Argentinean chimichurri sauce, which is made with parsley.

pistou sauce

I’ve been eating tons of vegetables lately—it just feels great to my system. On the other hand, I can't deny having the occasional urge for a rib eye straight from a hot, flaming grill.

Throughout the Northeast, farmers have been busy these last few weeks planting their first seeds. It's predicted that we will start seeing local spring vegetables at the market towards the end of April. I'm already thinking about curly-leafed Savoy cabbage, baby golden beets, crunchy pink and purple radishes, pungent-fragrant spring garlic, mild baby onions, curly-leafed spinach, perhaps some morel mushrooms and all kinds of vibrant herbs.

Tender Vegetables
I really love those first-of-the-season vegetables; they're subtle and make a lovely steamed potpourri of tender baby vegetables. Add a spoonful of pistou over the vegetables just before serving—the basil will tickle your nostrils with its seductive fragrance.

            harvesting basil

Tender Baby Greens
(recipe yields four servings)

½ teaspoon sea salt
1 large golden beet, peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes
2 cups savoy cabbage, about a quarter head of cabbage, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 bunch small radishes, cut in half 
1 bunch spring onions, cut in half and then into mouth-sized pieces

1) In a gallon-sized pot bring 2 cups water to boil add 1/4 teaspoon salt and cook beets covered with a lid 15 minutes. Add spring onions cook for 5 minutes. Add radishes and savoy cabbage and cook for 5 minutes for a total cooking time of 25 minutes.


Pistou Sauce
(recipe makes 1/2 cup)
2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
1 cup or 3 ounces fresh basil leaves
½ cup olive oil
1/4 teaspoon sea salt

1) In a quart-sized pot, bring 1/2 cup of water and garlic to boil and continue to simmer for 2 minutes. Chill garlic water in the refrigerator.
2) Rinse basil with water, remove thick stems and throw out.
3) If you have a mortar and pestle, grind basil, then incorporate garlic, salt and olive oil. If you have a kitchen blender, combine basil, garlic water, and salt and process for 30 seconds on the high-speed setting. Slowly add oil through the lid opening and process 30 seconds longer.

Chef’s Tip: Store pistou in a closed container such as a glass jar in the refrigerator. It will keep up to 7 days in the refrigerator.

 

DABBLING WITH SPICES – the blog

A while ago, my personal workout had become stale, and I just didn’t feel as enthusiastic about lifting a bunch of heavy weights in a gym anymore. It so happened that I met a group of yogis at a festival who told me about their daily asana practice. I went along with the flow and these days I make it a habit to rehearse yoga regularly.

star anic, cardamom pods, mustard seeds, chile, cloves

Many of my yoga comrades are of Indian heritage and have social lifestyles with outings and gatherings in Indian-inspired restaurants, where I learned a lot about Indian cuisine, in addition to sitar music, Assam tea, and a number of deities (e.g. Lakshmi and Ganesha).

curry dishes...love it

As for the Indian restaurants, I experienced amazingly simple but delicious street foods. I can’t get enough of dal—usually prepared from lentils, peas or any kind of bean, which I soak up with whole wheat roti. Also, Southern cuisine, often prepared with an unimaginable number of curry mixtures, gets my approval. Northern Indian cuisine, where Asian ingredients such as ginger and coconut have a strong showing, has appeal especially for the Western pallet.

A bit of a downer is that a heavy hand with the spices can sometimes bring dishes totally out of balance. In addition, Americanized Indian cuisine is often prepared with a free-flowing bottle of oil or a generous amount of ghee that makes the food sit like one of those deity’s statues in my stomach.  

beloved dal...

Dabbling with Spices
As a chef, it has been inspiring seeing the differences of Indian cuisine. Naturally, I have dabbled in Indian cooking and rediscovered spices and new combinations I had forgotten about or never even heard of. I like to apply them to vegetable recipes, which seems to be my forte. I like to think of such vegetable dishes as the centerpiece of my plate—move over steak!

Indian-Spiced Carrots
(recipe makes four portions)
2 bunches carrots
1 onion, chopped into ¼” cubes
1 lemon, cut into 1/8”-thick slices
1 orange, juiced
1 cup water
2 pieces star anise or 1 teaspoon
1 pod cardamom
a pinch cayenne
½ teaspoon sea salt
½ teaspoon turmeric powder
¼ teaspoon cinnamon powder
½ teaspoon coriander powder
¼ cup apple cider vinegar
2 cups canned chickpeas
1 cup parsley, chopped
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

1. Cut tops off carrots and rinse with water.
2. Combine carrots, onions, lemon, orange juice, star anise, cardamom, cayenne, salt, turmeric, cinnamon, coriander, and apple cider vinegar in a pot.  Cover pot with a lid and cook carrot mixture on low heat for 1 hour. Add chickpeas and cook for 30 minutes or until carrots are soft when pierced with a knife.
3. Add parsley and olive oil. 

Chef’s tip: Add half a cup of mango, cut into half-inch cubes just before serving. Further, a teaspoon of extra virgin coconut oil will make your carrot dish even more fragrant.  

 

GOING WITH THE GRAIN - the blog

Say good-bye to white rice and bread—and hello to delicious oats, quinoa, and other whole grains such as barley, kamut, wheat berries and more. Let's face it, white bread has shortcomings—it’s highly processed and nutrient-deficient when compared to its whole-wheat counterpart. The satiating power of a bowl of oats is no mystery thanks to the staple's prominence in American breakfasting culture. Only recently have we begun to explore the wide-ranging benefits that whole grains (and pseudo-grains like quinoa, buckwheat, and amaranth) have to offer. Given the variety and their versatility, we'd be remiss not to explore the world of these tiny powerhouse grains and seeds. I suggest we take a break from the tired, white and processed and give whole grains a go. In the past, food processing and storage practices made whole grains a rarity in most supermarkets. The absence can be attributed to early industrialization, during which shelf-stable processed and refined grains like white flour and pasta were introduced to the American consumer, unlike today where nutty, complex carbohydrates have been making a fast-track comeback. They may be not as shelve stable, but that can be solved by buying from a local supply where they’re not stored for months on end—look for the expiration date on the package to be sure you’re not buying an expired, rancid product—freshness prevails. Indeed, whole grains will go rancid faster than refined, so store them in airtight containers in a cool pantry or in the refrigerator to prolong freshness for months. The movement is evident—even the small everyday market at the corner in my neighborhood carries whole grain offerings.

To be sure, these whole grains deserve the hype. They're nutrient-dense and packed with iron, vitamins B and E, fiber, protein and antioxidants. In addition, they have been said to lower cholesterol and risk for heart disease. Also they aid in weight maintenance. In fact, the so-called super-grains quinoa and amaranth contain all eight essential amino acids, which makes them an excellent choice for some of us who bolster their diets with more plant-based protein. Let's face it: not only are they good nutritionally, but they're also exquisite additions to a satisfying meal because they bring variety, texture, flavor and color to our meals.

The Long and Short of It
To me, grains can be divided into two categories. First there are the quick-cooking grains. The cooking time is generally under a half hour for quicker varieties, and be aware that each requires a different ratio of cooking water-to-grain, so check the details of the specific grain on the label for cooking instructions. Some examples are millet, buckwheat, bulgur and quinoa. The other grains are slow-cooking and take longer then 30 minutes. Such slower-cooking grains like whole-wheat berries, kamut, spelt and rye are generally chewier and richer in flavor. Further, it is good practice to soak such grains in water for up to eight hours and then simmer them according the label’s cooking instructions. The time commitment can be considerable, so plan ahead. They can take approximately 30 to 70 minutes to prepare and use. After draining, they can either be stored in the fridge or frozen in individual portions for a quick, everyday meal.
Although quinoa and amaranth by themselves are high in protein, manganese and antioxidants, other grains need a complementary pairing for optimal health and nutrients. The following recipe is delicious and full of nutrients.
My suggestion is to serve it with vegetables, meat, fish or eggs.

grain bowl with veggies and pinenuts 

Super Grain & Seed Base
(recipe makes 6 – 8 portions)

2 tablespoons vegetable oil, such as grape seed or sunflower seed oil

1 onion, diced
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1/2 cup rolled oats, soaked in water for 30 minutes
1 cup short grain brown rice, cooked per the label’s instructions
1 cup quinoa, cooked per the label’s instructions
1 cup buckwheat, cooked per the label’s instructions
2 tablespoons chia seeds, soaked in 1/2 cup warm water
2 tablespoons white sesame seeds, toasted
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
8 grindings black pepper from the mill
1 tablespoon tamari sauce
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, chopped

1)    In a skillet, heat vegetable oil on medium heat, then add onions and garlic. Cook for 10 minutes.

2)    Add grains and all the other ingredients, then stir to incorporate. Cover pot with a tight-fitting lid and heat for 15 minutes on low heat.

Chef’s Note: Can't get whole grains locally? Order online from Bob's Red Mill, Lotus Foods or Anson Mills. 

brown rice bowl

Also...
Are you a celiac foodie, or know of one? Don't despair; even you can partake in the grain awakening. Buckwheat, millet, rice, quinoa, and ever-popular oats are all gluten free.
Folks that feel unsettled with refined starches can sometimes enjoy ancient wheat varieties such as farro, kamut, and spelt. But for the truly gluten-intolerant, it's best not to try them.

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SEAFOOD SALAD - the blog

It's March and winter is still among us with its generous snowfall. Daylight is getting longer and most of us are ready to hang our winter coat in the closet for hibernation. The local produce aisle is on its last legs—winter root vegetables leaves much to be desired (e.g., gummy-textured parsnips, beets with black spots, waxy-centered rutabaga, and carrots that lack flavor). Lately I have been shifting my emphasis to seafood salads. Plump shrimp, tasty lobster, and delicate crab make a fine base.  I did not stray too far from the idea of a classic mayonnaise-based seafood salad and this are my immediate findings. The following are tips that made my seafood salads a success:

steamed shrimp & cucumber salad

Texture is important: Adding contrast to soft-textured seafood with chopped celery cubes, diced radishes, shaved fennel, tart apples, and juice asian pears make an enjoyable, vibrant eating experience.
Bright flavor punch: To keep it exciting on the pallet, add herbs. Toss a small amount of freshly chopped herbs into your seafood salad mixture—parsley, anise-y tarragon, seductively tender chervil or sharp tasting chive. Also, green or black olives or capers add a welcome punch.

Fluffy greens: I recommend serving your seafood salad over tender Boston or Bibb lettuce leaves, crunchy romaine or peppery watercress.
Making it all work on a budget: Lobster and shrimp signify a meal for a rather special occasion. A smart way to make this work is by adding cooked macaroni pasta into the mix. I used brown rice and quinoa pasta since I do better with less gluten in my diet. A ratio of 1/4 pasta to the other ingredients worked well in my seafood salad mixes.

The following recipe makes 4 portions.

Shrimp:
4 cups cold water
1/4 cup apple cider vinegar

4 bay leaves
1 lemon, cut into half
8 grindings black pepper from the mill

1 teaspoon sea salt

1/2 pound frozen small shrimp, peeled and deveined

1) In a pot combine water, vinegar, lemon, black pepper, salt, and bay leaf and bring to boil.
2) In a strainer rinse shrimp with warm water, then put into heatproof bowl or pot.
3) Pour boiling liquid over the shrimp and let steep for 15 minutes. Depending on their size, cut shrimp into mouth-sized pieces.

Chef's Note: My preferred shrimp size for seafood salad is 16-20 pieces to the pound.

Tofunaise:
(recipe makes about 3/4 cup mayo-like sauce)
1/2 cup warm water
2 lemon, juiced
4 ounces soft tofu
1 tablespoon smooth mustard
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1/4 cup vegetable oil such as grape seed, avocado or sunflower oil

1) Combine water, lemon juice, tofu, mustard and salt in kitchen blender and process for 1 minute.
2) Add oil slowly through the lid opening. The process should take 1 minute. At this point the mixture should have a thick, mayonnaise-like texture.

Salad assembly:
3 slices nitrite-free bacon
1 small head Boston or Bibb lettuce, cleaned and torn into mouth-sized pieces
1 stalk celery, finely chopped, about 1/2 cup
7 ounces shrimp (see recipe above)
3/4 cup tofunaise (see recipe above)
2 tablespoons chives, snipped with scissors into 1/2-inch long pieces

1) Cook bacon in a skillet on medium heat for 4 minutes or until crispy, then transfer to a kitchen paper towel. Dry off excess fat with paper towel, then chop into 1-inch pieces.
2) Arrange lettuce leaves on the bottom of four plates.
2) In a bowl, combine bacon, shrimp, tofunaise, celery, and chives and mix with a rubber spatula. Transfer shrimp mixture over the lettuce-lined plates.

Chef's Tip: Sprinkle Old Bay spice over the shrimp salad. You'll find it in just about any supermarket.

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WHAT HAPPENS WHEN BROCCOLI AND CABBAGE GET MARRIED? – the blog

Ta-da! They make little kohlrabi babies.! Kohlrabi has been kind of a lonely vegetable with its unique-looking appearance, however, it has enjoyed somewhat of a renaissance lately. I grew up eating a lot of kohlrabi, and recently it has been offered to me via several farmers connections. I still remember my mother’s slow roasted kohlrabi sticks that looked like French fries tossed in garden-fresh dill. It’s a shame that not too many people are familiar with it!

kohlrabi

Kohlrabi a member of the brassica family, like kale, Brussels sprouts, broccoli and cauliflower. The word comes from the German word “kohl," meaning cabbage, and “rabi," which is the word for turnip.

kohlrabi salad at Mugaritz restaurant in spain

Kohlrabi peel is either a light green or purple color. Peel that outer layer off until you reach the light-colored, crisp flesh. The tough skin will not soften when cooked. Also, don’t through out the leaves! They’re perfectly edible and make a nice addition to most kohlrabi dishes. I suggest treating them like kale.

carrot & kohlrabi slaw

Kohlrabi is a versatile vegetable when it comes to preparation. You can eat it raw in salads, but I suggest combining it with other vegetables like apples or fennel because it can be a bit rough on the stomach. I also have steamed, boiled, baked, grilled and roasted them. Make a stir-fry with other vegetables, such as carrots. In addition, kohlrabi is terrific in soups and stews. It also makes a light vegetable puree comparable to mashed potatoes—just boil them and mash them with potatoes or root vegetables like celery root. I realized, when seeking out recipes on the Internet, that it is popular in Indian cooking, which is no surprise since kohlrabi adapts very well to spiced or spicy types of dishes.

 

Kohlrabi & Apple Salad

(recipe makes four salads)

1 pound kohlrabi

1 apple with a tart flavor profile such as Granny Smith

1 fennel bulb

8 juniper berries

2 lemons, juiced

3 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 

¼ teaspoon sea salt

8 turns black pepper

1. Peel kohlrabi, then slice into 1/8”-thick strips. This can be done with a knife but I much prefer to use a mandolin.
2. For the fennel, cut the tough top part and any fibrous leaves off.
3. Chop apples into 1/8” cubes.
4. Crush juniper berries with the side of a chef’s knife, then chop finely.
5. In a bowl, combine kohlrabi, apple, fennel, and juniper berries, then season with lemon juice, extra virgin olive oil, salt and black pepper.
6. Let the mixture sit in the refrigerator for 30 minutes, then serve. It will soften the kohlrabi pleasantly.

Chef’s Note: Nutritionally, kohlrabi has phytochemicals that are highly regarded for their antioxidant properties.

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VEGGIE FRIES - the blog

carrot fries

I encourage my daughter to eat lots of vegetables. On the other hand, she attended tons of her schoolmates’ birthday parties last month and has become a party food connoisseur—pizza, cupcakes, French fries, ketchup, you name it!  And to be totally honest, we are in a winter eating slump this time of the year. How much of the typical local winter root vegetables (e.g., rutabaga, parsnips) can you eat?

Going along with the fast food theme, I have been taking the idea of the French fry and using it for vegetables—to great success!

Vegetable "fries"
Sweet potatoes aren’t the only challenger to the conventional potato’s French-fried dominance.
I asked myself for a little more creativity and indeed we adults went right along with it.
Obviously as a chef I'm a big fan of cooking it yourself, that way you'll know exactly what the ingredients are and how much of them go into a dish. The following fries are oven-roasted with olive oil. In this way they are a touch more healthy than fast-food fries that are often made super crispy and flavorful with a bunch of funky additives and often use not-so-good-for-you oils.

Baked Butternut Squash Fries
(recipe makes 4 side portions)
1 piece of butternut squash with a long neck
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
1/4 teaspoon chili powder (optional)
1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika powder
sea salt, to taste

1) Preheat oven to 450 degrees.
3) Peel and cut squash into long sticks. With a tablespoon scrape seeds out of the bottom part and cut in half from top to bottom and then into half-moon-shaped pieces.
3) In a bowl combine squash, olive oil, garlic powder, chili powder (optional) and paprika powder.
4) Toss mixture and spread over a parchment or foil-lined sheet pan.
5) Bake for 30 minutes, or when the squash is soft.  If needed bake for 5-10 minutes longer.
6) Season with a generous sprinkle of sea salt and enjoy.

butternut squash fries

The following are some baking tips for successful crisp and tender veggie fries:
- To get the best crunch out of baked fries, place them on a slotted baking rack set over a baking sheet pan. I suggest lining the baking rack with parchment paper and spreading the seasoned vegetable mixture evenly over it. This allows the heat to circulate around the fries and hence they get seductively crunchy.
- When baking fries I suggest not to overcrowd the sheet pan. It creates steam and the fries will become rather soggy.

...more veggie fries prepared with the above recipe:
- Peel and cut rutabaga and/or carrots in long sticks. You may have to adjust the cooking time though, so taste them after 30 minutes. If they're not soft yet, add on 8 minutes of oven time.
- Green beans: Snap off the ends and bake for 20 minutes or until soft.
- Avocado fries: A truly divine version of veggie fries. Slice a firm but not hard avocado into 1/2-inch wedges, then throw out the peel and pit. Season avocado with the spices but no olive oil. Dip avocado wedges into whole wheat flour, mixed egg and panko bread crumbs moistened with the olive oil. Arrange avocado wedges on a parchment-lined sheet pan and bake at 450 degrees Fahrenheit, 15-20 minutes. The fries should have a golden brown color at this point, if not bake for 3-5 minutes longer.

Chef’s Note: Serve your fries with a homemade dipping sauce such as garlic hummus, guacamole, aioli, salsa or cold tomato sauce.

SINFUL FRIED CAPERS - the blog

saffron risotto with fried capers

SINFUL FRIED CAPERS - the blog
Have you tasted fried capers yet? Tender and gently crisp, seeming almost pillowy with an intense flavor profile. These little morsels are nutty and briny, and add an addictive finishing touch. Let's put fried capers on everything! The best part is that it takes only a few minutes to prepare them, yet they add such a wonderful, unexpected dimension—rich and sinful—at the same time. I have sprinkled them over dishes such as chopped salads, charred sliced steak, grilled chicken thighs with roasted lemon slices, sautéed Brussels sprout wedges, and roasted beets with melted goat cheese.

Fried Capers
(recipe yields 1/4 cup)
1/4 cup capers
2 tablespoon vegetable oil such as grapeseed or sunflower oil
sea salt, to taste

1) Rinse capers in a sieve and transfer to a small bowl. Add enough water to cover capers by 2 inches and swirl them in the water around for 1 minute. Drain capers, then pat very dry between kitchen paper towels.
2) Heat oil in a 1-quart-sized saucepan over high heat until it registers 350 degrees Fahrenheit on a kitchen thermometer.
3) Fry capers until golden, 30 to 45 seconds, stirring with a wooden spoon until they brown and open up like flowers. Drain capers through the same sieve from before, catching all the oil in a bowl. This can be used to flavor vegetables, pasta or polenta (see recipe below).
5) Transfer capers to kitchen paper towel to dry off excess oil. Salt capers to taste.

halibut with fried capers

Polenta with Fried Polenta
(recipe makes 4 portions)
6 cups water
1 teaspoons salt, add more to taste
2 bay leaves
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1 cup yellow, fine cornmeal
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil (or the oil that was used frying the capers)
Black pepper to taste from the mill

1) In a 2-quart-sized pot, bring 6 cups of water to boil on high heat.
2) Add salt, bay leaves and garlic, then gradually whisk in the cornmeal. Reduce the heat to low and cook until the mixture thickens and the cornmeal is tender, stirring often, about 15 minutes. Turn off the heat.
3) Stir in olive oil (or caper frying oil) and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
4) Serve polenta in a shallow bowl and sprinkle fried capers over it.

Chef's Note: For a vital flavor profile add chopped parsley, and for extra richness add shavings of Parmesan over the polenta just before serving

 

BLOOD ORANGES FOR VALENTINE’S DAY- the blog

Blood oranges have a unique flavor profile—almost raspberry-like along with its citrus flavor profile. Some blood orange varieties can be quite a bit tart. One of my favorite preparations is gently cooking them to create marmalade. It also frequently finds its way into salads with other intensely flavored vegetables such as fennel and celery. It’s quite good in combination with a solid amount of toasted nuts such as pine nuts, pistachios or walnuts. Almost certainly it has made its presence among my winter fruit selection. Often I simply filet the orange into sections, which is done by cutting the skin off with a knife and then carefully cutting each orange segment out between the skin structure of the orange. I like to shave white chocolate over such orange segments—it balances the fruit’s natural tartness in a seductive, sweet and sour kind of way—perfect for Valentine’s Day.

blood oranges

More About Blood Oranges
Blood oranges are a variety of orange with crimson, blood-colored flesh. Blood oranges are about the same size as an average orange. The signature dark flesh color is due to the presence of anthocyanins, a family of antioxidant pigment. Due to its pigments, the blood orange contains greater amounts of antioxidants than other oranges. Sometimes there is a Bordeaux red coloring on the exterior of the rind as well, and also the skin tends to be tougher and harder in comparison to regular oranges. Blood oranges cultivated in the United States are in season from December to March, and they’re predominantly from Texas and California. Blood oranges are now the primary orange grown in Italy. The anthocyanins that give the orange its distinct maroon color will only develop when temperatures are low at night.

Following are two recipes to give you an idea of how to prepare blood oranges in a simple way.

arugula salad with blood orange segments, black olives and feta

Chopped Winter Salad with Blood Oranges
(recipe yields four portions)
12 ounces prepped lettuce such as romaine, endive, dandelion greens—a mixture or one variety is optional
6 blood oranges
1 fennel bulb
1 cup nuts such as pistachios, pine nuts or walnuts, toasted
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
sea salt, to taste
fresh black pepper grindings from the mill

1) Rinse the lettuce with water and dry in a salad spinner or with kitchen paper towel. Chop lettuce into 1-inch pieces.
2) Cut top and bottom off the oranges. In a curved manner cut the skin off from top to bottom. Cut peeled oranges into 1/2-inch chunks.
3) Cut fennel in half, cut core out and throw out. Cut fennel into 1/8-inch thick slices using a Mandolin or a knife.
4) In a bowl combine lettuce, oranges, fennel, nuts, olive oil, salt and pepper, then toss the mixture.

Blood Orange Segments & White Chocolate
(recipe yields four portions)

8 blood oranges
1 ounce white chocolate
1 tablespoon peppermint leaves, hand torn (optional)

1) Cut top and bottom off the oranges. In a curved manner cut the skin off from top to bottom.
2) Hold the orange in your hand above a small bowl—it will catch the dripping orange juice. With a small knife cut the segments out in between the skin structure. Drop segments into the small bowl.
3) Holding the skin structure in your hand, press the excess juice over the segmented orange.

Chef’s tip: Moro blood oranges are my preferred variety. They’re super red and sweet.

 

BELGIAN ENDIVE PETALS - the blog

Belgian endive is sometimes called witloof or French endive. Belgian endive was developed by a Dutch botanist from the coffee chicory root in 1846. Chicory root has a bitter flavor profile and can be used for cooking, though a small amount goes along way. I particularly like it in gamy dishes such lamb or venison. Also it is often used as a coffee substitute since it has a coffee-like flavor profile. In order to use it as a coffee substitute, the roots must be dried and then ground. It's noteworthy to mention that the roots have a high insulin content and hence are beneficial to your well being. It cures liver issues and helps with cardiovascular ailments and constipation.

stuffed endive leaves

Endive root has a growth cycle of about 6 months and then it may be harvested twice a year. After the roots are well established, the plant is gently pulled from the ground. The roots are then replanted and grown in darkness. The emerging endive is kept beneath the soil or often covered with straw, which preserves its immaculate whiteness. Only the tips of the endive are allowed to exist the open air and gain exposure to light, which makes the very top turn a gentle pastel green. Also, you may have seen fancy, purple-leaved endive, which sells at a high price.

Belgian endive has a crisp texture and a sweet, nutty flavor profile. In addition. it tends to be pleasantly, mildly bitter. It can be cooked, but the following recipe showcases its raw, subtle side.

fresh endive still in the soil

Stuffed Belgian Endive Petals
(recipe makes about 20 petals or hors d'oeuvres)
1 apple, such as Granny Smith
1 stalk green celery
1 lemon, juiced
4 ounces blue cheese, such as Maytag
1/2 cup walnuts, toasted and finely chopped
1 tablespoon maple syrup
black pepper from the mill, to taste
sea salt, to taste
4 Belgian endives

1) Cut apple around the core into 1/8”-thick slices and then into 1/8”-wide strips. Cut the strips into 1/8" cubes. Cut celery into 1/8" strips and across into 1/8" cubes.
2) In a bowl, crumble blue cheese into small nuggets and add the cut apples, celery, lemon, walnuts and maple syrup. Season mixture with salt and pepper from the mill to taste. With a table fork toss and mix the ingredients.
4) Trim endives by cutting a 1” piece from the bottom. Throw that out. Separate endive heads into leaves. Select large leaves for stuffed leaves. Use the small inner leaves for another recipe such as chopped salad.
5) On a plate stuff each endive leaf with 1 tablespoon of the cheese/apple mixture.

Chef’s Tip: Line a serving tray with a decorative, clean towel—this will provide a stable base for the endive. Arrange the stuffed leaves in a flower-like pattern. Leave enough space in between the petals so your guests can take them off the plate easily.

SAVOY CABBAGE - the blog

Savoy cabbage has a very distinctive look—it will most definitely catch your attention. The highly contrasting shades of green and deeply crinkled texture of the leaves make Savoy cabbages appealing to the eye. Despite the rough appearance, the leaves of Savoy cabbage are tender, even when eaten raw. It makes them an ideal choice for salads or as a wrapping leaf in a roll-up. In addition to its taste and texture, another highly beneficial trait is that it lacks the sulfur-like odor that most people are more than familiar with. This makes Savoy cabbage the perfect choice for cooking as well. I equally like it with roasted fish and grilled meat—meaning it stands up perfectly well next to strongly flavored foods.

Savoy cabbage beauty!

Green, red or Savoy cabbage
Compared to the leaves of green and red cabbages, tenderness is a huge factor in the appeal of Savoy cabbage. The green and red cabbages have a slightly bitter taste. Savoy cabbage, by comparison, is milder and sweeter. In addition the uneven surface of Savoy cabbage captures sauces much better than the flat-leafed green and red cabbage varieties and therefore tends to be more flavorful—capturing more sauce with each bite certainly equals more flavor.

Savoy cabbage = powerhouse
Like the rest of the cabbage family, Savoy cabbage has an excellent nutritional value. It's low in calories and contains no fat or cholesterol. It is a good source of dietary fiber and protein. In general, cabbage is rich in vitamins and minerals such as thiamine (B-1), folic acid, vitamin A, vitamin B6, magnesium, potassium, manganese, calcium, copper, phosphorous, and copper. In addition, cabbage is an excellent source of both Vitamins K and C. Its high levels of antioxidants make it disease combating—exactly what we need in the cold winter season. These properties make cabbage one of the world’s healthiest foods this time of year.

The following is currently my favorite cooked cabbage recipe. It is pleasantly spicy because of the addition of an increased amount of black pepper and a tad bit of cayenne.

Savoy cabbage with tomato sauce

Spiced Cabbage Sauté with Tomatoes
(recipe yields 4-6 portions)
1.5 pounds prepped cabbage or 1 whole, medium-sized head Savoy cabbage
2 tablespoons vegetable oil, such as grapeseed or sunflower oil
8 oz canned, chopped tomatoes
1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
1/2 teaspoon sea salt, and more to taste
20 turns black pepper from a mill, and more to taste
Pinch of cayenne
1/2 cup parsley, chopped

1) With a chef’s knife cut off the bottom 1/2-inch of the cabbage. Remove the dark green leaves and throw out. Cut cabbage vertically in half. With the tip of the knife cut the core out of the cabbage and discard. In 1 1/2-inch intervals cut cabbage and then across into 1 1/2-inch squares.
2) In a gallon-sized pot, heat the oil, then add the cabbage and cook for 15 minutes on high heat. Stir cabbage gently with a wooden spoon.
3) Add tomato sauce, salt, pepper, and vinegar, and continue to cook for 10 minutes.
4) Add parsley and adjust seasoning with black pepper and salt.

Chef’s note: For variation, 2 tablespoons of capers make a great addition to the above reci

 

CAFFEINE WEANING - the blog

My New Year’s resolution—in addition to a number of my friend’s—was to wean myself off of coffee, and I’m happy to say that it’s still going strong. I think many can agree that sipping a cup of Joe gives you that happy rush, which often feels so good. It seems like a perfect pick-me-up beverage in the morning when your own gears just don’t want to kick in. In my case, that cup of Joe used to call for me again around 3pm. Especially when I had spent a fair number of hours in front of a computer screen or when my internal mid-day clock was getting quieter and quieter—to that point where it felt like I needed a nap.

tea sampler

You may think, so what's wrong with a cup of Joe? In my experience, coffee tends to be an extremely acidic beverage that may upset my internal ecosystem. It is known that caffeine stresses the adrenals and can cause blood sugar issues. Sure, coffee delivers that needed rush, but on the other hand it leads to a feeling of going up the walls. Also, I noticed my facial complexion gets a gray tone accompanied by rings under my eyes—this may be because caffeine dehydrates the body, which leads to that grayness and overall sluggishness.

green tea

A change was on the horizon
It seemed like a good idea to have another hot morning beverage alternative, so I have been drinking tisanes up the wazoo. Currently, the following are sure to be found in my kitchen cabinet: deep red rooibos, and South American herba mate (contains caffeine), which is often celebrated as a coffee substitute and has a slightly bitter taste similar to green tea.

Chef’s Note: Virtually any dried flowers, fruits, spices or herbs steeped in hot water can be called a tisane. Usually there are no tea leaves in tisanes and are traditionally caffeine-free. Tisanes are said to be relaxing or rejuvenating.

Skipping coffee and drinking tea has been improving my overall mental energy, focus, mood and also promoted deeper sleeping, which is important since I don't sleep usually more then six hours. Currently my yogi friends have me hooked on chai tea that I like to prepare as follows.

when caffeine gets to you

Home-made Chai Tea
(recipe yields 8 cups)
2 sticks cinnamon, 2” long
1 teaspoon cardamom seeds
10 whole cloves
5 cups water
¼ cup Assam or Darjeeling tea, or 3 tea bags of these teas
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
¼ cup honey
4 cups water

1.     In a pot, combine cardamom and cloves in the water and bring to boil. Simmer mixture 15 minutes on low heat.
2.     Add the tea and steep on the side of the stove for 2-3 minutes. A longer steep time will increase bitterness in the tea. Strain mixture through a fine mesh sieve.
3.     Add honey, vanilla and water (or milk, see tip below) and heat on the stovetop.

Chef’s Tip:  Instead of the water, add 3 cups cow’s, almond or rice milk for a chai latte version of the beverage.

 

…Quick caffeine comparison:

Coffee, average 160 mg

Coca Cola, 21 mg

Rockstar Energy,160 mg

Red Bull, 75 mg

Monster, 151 mg

Herba maté, 85 mg

Black tea  (Darjeeling), 42 mg

Green tea, 25 mg

 

MANICURED BEETS - the blog

For the locavore in me, beets are a good choice this time of the year. At my local natural market they are one of the few vegetables next to rutabaga, potatoes and onions advertised as “local vegetables.” Indeed, they are sweet tasting and, when prepped raw and shaved paper-thin, they have a particular earthy flavor note that I enjoy very much. Beet salads prepared with apples or oranges and goat cheese gives the perfect balance to that earthiness. Toasted nuts such as pistachios, pine nuts or pumpkin seeds add terrific textural contrast. Most of the time I keep several of those ingredients at home, which makes it easy to prepare beets in different styles.

red beets

Bleeding beets
Granted, larger beets have an extended cook time and the "bleeding" of the deep-red color can get tricky on white kitchen counters. The other day I happily discovered pre-cooked, vacuum-packed beets at the before-mentioned local natural food market. It took the red-staining prep work out of my beet preparation and gave birth to several delectable beet dishes. A major plus was that these pre-cooked beets were soft enough to be cut with my egg slicer, which saved my white cutting board from being stained.

Chef’s note: An egg slicer is a harp-like small kitchen tool. Cutting avocados, eggs and now red beets becomes a mess-free event. It makes perfect thin, even slices. A couple of bucks spent was well worth the investment for the egg slicer.

I studied the ingredient list of the pre-cooked beets and realized that there were no other ingredients in the beet’s boiling process, so they needed seasoning. I tossed my sliced beets in a bowl with sunflower seed oil, balsamic vinegar and a teaspoon of black truffle oil. I keep black truffle oil in the refrigerator, which keeps it from getting rancid since a small amount goes a long way and the oil can last for several months in my kitchen. A dash of sea salt and a few turns of black pepper from my pepper mill wrapped up the seasoning step. I arranged the dressed beets in one straight line in the middle of white plates. Then, I sprinkled the beets with fragrant basil strips and toasted, salted pine nuts, which added richness. For acidic punch I sprinkled a few chunks of oranges onto the beets. It was a stunningly simple dish prepared in under 30 minutes and looked like it could have been served in any mannered restaurant.

beet carpaccio

Beet Carpaccio
(recipe yields four portions)
1 pack vacuum packed beets, 16 ounces
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon black truffle oil
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
8 grindings black pepper from the mill
2 tablespoons toasted, salted pine nuts
3 basil leaves sliced into 1/8” thick strips

1 orange, peeled with a knife and chopped into ¼-inch cubes

Chef’s tip: Wear disposable plastic gloves or use a plastic bag over your hands when prepping beets—it will protect your fingers and fingernails from the crimson-red beet juice.

 

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BITTER COLD, BITTER GREENS - the blog

January is here! It never ceases to amaze me how health conscious many of my friends become after the new year. All of a sudden it starts to matter what they're stuffing into their bodies. I suppose it's all the indulging over the holidays and the New Year’s resolutions that cause their mindsets. Later, when February rolls around, many are back to their old habits. For my part, I also crave rich food when it's really cold, like it is now. This time of the year I enjoy preparing seasonal winter salads. They're a nice change of pace to the everyday menus that tend to be filled with heavier foods. Leafy salads like frisée, endive, escarole, radicchio and dandelion greens have a bitter flavor profile that needs to be complemented with flavor-balancing ingredients. I suggest rich dressings such as brown butter, bacon, egg yolk and oil (a.k.a. mayonnaise), tahini and crumbled blue cheese, and buttermilk. I like to toss some marinated olives into the mix with their salty, brine-y taste. Furthermore, rich nuts such as cashews and pine nuts add welcome texture. Additionally, I usually add a sweet note with fresh fruits like apple slices, chunks of pears, orange segments, pomegranate seeds or dried fruits such as dates, cranberries or apricots. These fruits give balance to the natural bitterness that come along with the salad greens.

When composing a winter salad the variations seem endless to me but I’m listing some of my recent favorites here.  Each recipe yields two salads.

Romaine & Apples with Dates
6 oz romaine, chopped into 1-inch pieces
1 apple, such as crispin or granny smith
1/4 cup cashews, toasted
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 lemon, juiced
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
5 black pepper grindings from the mill
4 dried dates, pitted and cut into thin slices

1) Toss all ingredients in a bowl.

Frisée & Bacon with Blue Cheese
6 ounces frisée, cleaned and cut into 1-inch pieces
2 thick slices of bacon, 1/4-inch thick cut, chopped into 1/4-inch cubes
1 slice whole grain bread, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
5 grindings black pepper from the mill

1) Heat bacon on medium heat for 3-4 minutes, stirring frequently. Add bread and continue to cook for another minute.
2) In a bowl, sprinkle frisée with vinegar, then add cooked bacon/bread mixture. Adjust seasoning with sea salt if necessary.

 

endive & orange salad

Endive & Orange with Pine Nuts
4 pieces endive, cut into 1-inch pieces
2 mandarin oranges, peeled and divided into sections
1/4 cup pine nuts, toasted
1 tablespoon tahini
1 lemon, juiced
1/2 cup parsley, roughly chopped
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
5 grindings black pepper from the mill

1) Toss all ingredients in a bowl.

dandelion & pomegranate salad

Dandelion & Pomegranate with Candied Walnuts
1 cup walnuts
2 tablespoon maple syrup
1 bunch dandelion greens, chopped 1-inch wide
4 ounces romaine, chopped 1-inch wide
1/2 cup pomegranate seeds
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
5 grindings black pepper from the mill
2 tablespoons brown rice vinegar
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1) Coat a plate with vegetable oil. Toast walnuts on medium heat for 2 minutes, then add maple syrup. Continue to cook for 2 minutes, constantly stirring with a spoon. Pour nuts onto the greased plate. Cool for 10 minutes, then chop nuts with a knife into small pieces.
2) In a bowl, toss all ingredients.

 

BUTTONS & BARLEY - the blog

In my world the holidays equals all things indulgent. Appropriately, rich food such as festive pork ham, goose, heavenly mac and cheese, fancy brioche rolls and my mother’s Christmas cookies start to overwhelm me. To top it off, the New Year’s dinner party plan is to prepare a buffet with a tour of endless foods. I'm thankful for all the goodies, but that constant overeating starts to get to me. Time to unpack my New Year’s resolutions!

barley

This time of the year, especially when it's cold outside, my body craves comforting foods, and I have been unraveling some soothing, pleasant recipes.

Mushrooms are good.
Dried mushrooms make a soup rich in flavor vs. being glutinous. They're readily available in many stores and can be kept in the cupboard for many weeks if need be—perfect for an impromptu recipe. In addition, I like to combine them with fresh button mushrooms, garlic and onions, which make the base flavor for my soup. The satisfying kicker is added with barley.

slowly simmered barley

Mushroom & Barley Soup
(recipe yield for 4 portions)
1 cup dried sliced shiitake
1-inch piece ginger, finely chopped
2 tablespoons vegetable oil, such as sunflower seed
1 cup red onion, cut into 1/8-inch dice
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 teaspoon fresh thyme
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
5 grindings black pepper from a mill
10 ounces button mushrooms, sliced
4 cups vegetable broth
1 cup barley, soaked in water overnight
1 tablespoon light soy sauce
2 teaspoon miso paste
4 tablespoons parsley, chopped

1) Cover shiitake mushrooms with 4 cups of hot water.
2) In a gallon-sized pot, heat oil over medium heat. Add onion, garlic, ginger and thyme. Season the mixture with salt and pepper. Cook for 5 minutes.
3) Add button mushrooms and cook for 10 minutes.
4) Add broth, the shiitake mushrooms with their 4 cups of soaking water, button mushrooms and barley; bring to boil and cook on low heat for 45 minutes.
5) Take the soup off the flame and add soy sauce, miso and parsley. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.

Chef’s tip: Try the recipe above with one cup of finely chopped watercress instead of the parsley.

 

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IN ROOTS I TRUST - the blog

People often find big, gnarly, thick-skinned root vegetables intimating. This time of the year in the Northwest they're plentiful and locally available. Usually, root vegetables are stored in a cellar or dark shed. I know farmers that keep root vegetables covered in dirt so they keep moist. In a cold storage environment their starches are converted into natural sugars, which creates an addictive sweetness to roots when cooked.

kinpira with carrots and burdock root

Rooted strength
Root vegetables are soothing and make me feel grounded. In addition, they deliver tons of fiber that makes me feel satiated, and those converted natural sugars disperse slow-burning carbohydrates into the blood stream. These root vegetable carbs disperse terrific energy without creating a sugar high in our bodies. It’s a high very unlike that of refined sugar from candy, white flour products or sugary soda, which send you into the sugar stratosphere and then send your energy levels crashing. Root vegetable carbs disperse slowly through the blood into the system and deliver consistent energy. On another note, many root vegetables are packed with antioxidants, which strengthen the immune system—very important for the cold season in order to stay healthy.

Rooted cooking
My favorite way to cook root vegetables is known as the Japanese kinpira way. Kinpira can be explained as braising. It is a cooking style where vegetables are first sautéed and then water or a liquid is added that lets the vegetables soften without burning them. I favor this cooking style since root vegetables tend to have rather hard textures and hence take a while to get to an enjoyable texture and addictive gusto. You may have heard of "caramelizing onions"—that's exactly what happens in kinpira cooking. The natural sugars of the onions are drawn to the surface and create tasty roasted/caramelized sweetness.

My favorite vegetables as of late are burdock roots and carrots. The kinpira cooking technique is supported by a small amount of light soy sauce and miso, which rounds the flavors out beautifully.

whole burdock root

Root Vegetable Kinpira
(recipe yields four servings)
12 oz burdock root, peeled and cut into 1/8"-thick slices
12 oz carrots, cut into 1/8"-thick slices
2 tablespoons vegetable oil, such as olive or sunflower oil
1 tablespoon light soy sauce
1 teaspoon brown miso paste
1-inch piece of ginger with the thickness of your pinky finger, finely chopped
Sea salt, to taste
Black pepper from the mill, to taste

1) Heat a gallon-sized pot on medium heat, add the oil and the vegetables. Add two pinches of sea salt. Stirring every 2 minutes, cook the vegetables for 10 minutes.
2) Add 1/2 cup of water, soy sauce, ginger and 5 grindings of pepper and cover pot with a tight-fitting lid. Cook mixture for 10 minutes.
3) Turn heat off, add miso, adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, then stir. Let mixture sit for 5 minutes, then serve.

…more root cooking
Over the last few weeks I’ve tried the following seasonal root vegetable variations cooked in the kinpira style recipe from above. Use the recipe above as a base. 

- celery root & red onions seasoned with 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg powder
- parsley root & quarter-inch cubed red beets
- parsnips & sliced purple turnips
- rutabaga cut into quarter-inch cubes & halved garlic cloves

 

BREAKFAST GRAINS – the blog

 

Breakfast is one of the most important meals of the day for me before get to work. Often my typical breakfast consists of freshly cooked grains in a voluminous portion. Sometimes my breakfast prep starts the day before, prior to going to bed. I rinse grains—such as short grain brown rice, steel cut oatmeal, or sometimes barley—with clear water, and after that it is soaked in water overnight. In this way I can be sure it won't take the grains too long to get tender when I cook them. Another reason why I like pre-soaking the grains is because it pre-sprouts the grain. Pre-sprouting activates beneficial nutrients and makes the grain easier to digest.
Just about on any day in the wee-hours I set the soaked grain over the fire and season it with a pinch of sea salt. Yes, I’m an earlier riser, so it’s usually around 5AM. Rice takes about 40 minutes to get soft. If I’m in a hurry to get out the door, I gravitate to already cooked grains that I most likely have sitting in the refrigerator from another batch from earlier in the week. I put the grains in the pot with a bit of water and reheat it, stirring every so often, and within five minutes my piping hot bowl of grains is ready.
Over the years I have learned plentiful finishing touches for my morning grain bowl. Here are a few of my favorites:

- a pinch of cinnamon and maple syrup or honey
- seasonal berries such as blueberries in fall, or raspberries and strawberries in late spring
- baked granola for texture sprinkled over the top
- nut milk: once the grain is finished cooking, add 1/4 cup almond milk or rice milk per cup of warm cereal.
- I love toasted nuts: almonds, walnuts, cashews, sunflower seeds; one tablespoon of nuts per cup of cooked cereal does the trick for me.
- Sometimes I feel going the savory route, so leftover beans from a prior day’s dinner make it into my breakfast bowl, finished with a tiny bit of miso—I find it very calming.
- Warm cereal seasoned with a teaspoon of miso and a touch of maple syrup is one of my favorite versions.
- For summer mornings I enjoy refreshing rich, whole milk Greek yogurt.
- Often it happens that I have several different cooked grains leftover in my fridge, so I mix and match, which makes for a diversified eating experience.
- I fancy dried chopped cranberries, dates or apricots to add a sweet note to my cereal. It’s always available in my cupboard. 

Rolled Oats
When it comes to rolled oats there is no cooking involved, the overnight soaking process is all that it needs. I do that in the refrigerator in addition to a grated green apple, sliced almonds, yogurt and a touch of honey. My method for rolled oats is modeled after Bircher Muesli, named after Swiss physician Maximilian Bircher Brenner, who was a big defender of that preparation for himself and his patients. Growing up in the mountains of Austria, my mother would feed me Bircher Muesli when I was little boy and I still like it today. Following is my preparation for it:

 

breakfast muesli -breakfast is king

Bircher Muesli
(recipe makes approximately 1 cup)

1 cup rolled oats
½ cup water
1 green apple, grated, such as Granny Smith
1 tablespoon sliced almonds
1 orange, juiced
Fruits such as ½ banana, sliced or 1/4 cup fresh blueberries or strawberries
2 tablespoons Greek yogurt (almond or rice milk)
1 teaspoon honey, to top (optional)

1)   In a bowl combine oats, apple, almonds and orange juice and let soak covered in the refrigerator overnight.
2)   Add fruit(s), yogurt or non-dairy milk and honey. Stir with spoon.

 

 

 

LOCAL NO MATTER WHAT - the blog

When the ground freezes and the days are short, many local markets shrink to barely half their size when compared to the warm season. Regardless, you can still eat local very well. We don't have to rely on meat or heated greenhouses, but rather modest stored grains and roots can make for a satisfying winter dish before other vegetables come out of hibernation.

Soothing grains
Risotto comes to mind. Usually it's prepared with Arborio rice, but you can prepare it with emmer, kamut or freekeh, which are all wheat berries. I use three grains, but you can make the dish with two varieties. Kamut is the wild variety, freekeh is harvested green and then smoked, and emmer or faro counts as an ancient wheat berry.

wheat berry risotto

 

Wheat Berry Risotto
(recipe makes 2 entree-sized portions)

I put a cup of each kind of wheat berry individually into a pot in addition to one bay leaf, a pinch of salt, vinegar and 5 cups of water. Cover with a lid and bring it to boil. Continue to cook the grains on medium heat . The freekeh will likely take 40 minutes to get soft, whereas the emmer and kamut can take up to 2 hours—it depends on how long the wheat berries were stored. Often, longer storage means a longer cook time, but it also depends on the variety of wheat berry. Also, you can pre-soak the wheat berries in water for 6–8 hours, which cuts down on the cooking time. Once the wheat berries are soft, strain the excess cooking liquid and reserve.

As for the vegetables, I like to choose celery root, parsnips, large carrots—which many farmers call horse carrots—in addition to local wintered-in onions and garlic. I peel the vegetables and cut them into 1/4-inch cubes and cook them in a gallon-sized, preferably 12-inch-wide pot. In this way the vegetables get better pan-roasting surface. My cooking oil of choice is sunflower or grape seed oil. They are good oils for long and high heat roasting. In addition, they are heat stable instead of breaking down like extra virgin oils such as coconut or olive oil. Extra virgin oils I use later just before they go on the serving plate.

Let’s continue with the cooking. Cook the vegetables on medium heat with the addition of sea salt for 15 minutes, stirring every 3-5 minutes. When the vegetables start to brown add one tablespoon of water, then add the wheat berries, two cups of the reserved cooking liquid and cashew milk. Cook the mixture for another 15 minutes, stirring frequently. To finish, add extra virgin olive oil, nut milk [PKN1] and parsley. Season with salt and pepper.

 

Wheat berry mix:
1 cup emmer
1 cup kamut
1 cup freekeh
3 bay leaves
3 teaspoons apple cider vinegar
Pinch of salt for each wheat berry

veggie prep

Veg prep:
1 cup carrots, quarter-inch diced
1 cup celery, quarter-inch diced
1 cup parsnip, quarter-inch diced
1/2 cup garlic, quarter-inch diced

1 red onion, quarter-inch diced
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/4 teaspoon sea salt

Finishing the wheat berry dish:
1/2 cup cashew milk
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
4 tablespoons parsley, chopped
5 grindings black pepper from the mill

 

Chef’s Note: For a richer version of the wheat berry dish, add 2 tablespoons of grated Parmesan to the dish just before serving.

SPILL THE BEANS - the blog

I think bean dishes are super delicious. I like them best when the beans keep their shape during the cooking process and have a creamy interior with a velvety quality. As of late I have been cooking beans with different methods and treating them like they are the super star ingredient.

First of all, I prefer locally sourced beans. With such there is a better chance to learn about growing and harvesting procedures. Also, in this way I can get an idea of how long the beans were kept in storage. I like it to be no longer than 6 -8 months. I think the texture and flavor tends to be better compared to years-old beans the supermarkets sell.

Bean cooking
I make sure to soak the beans in water overnight, then rinse them with tap water. When it comes to cooking, as a rule of thumb I combine 1 cup of dry beans with 4 cups of cold water. For flavoring I add kombu seaweed and spices such as cumin, coriander and smoked paprika powder. The beans are brought to a boil, and after that I change the heat setting to medium so the beans can simmer gently to the point where they're soft but still have the skin holding its shape.

 

If you are short on time there is a quicker way to cook beans. Cover the beans with water in the ratio of 5 cups of water to 1 cup of dry beans and boil for 2 minutes, then turn off the heat and soak for 2 hours. After that, strain the beans in a colander and rinse with tap water. Put beans back in the pot and add 5 cups cold water per the original 1 cup of dry beans.

Soaking and cooking beans in that way will eliminate much of the oligosaccharides, which are complex sugars that cannot be digested by our stomach enzymes. They cause the infamous bloating after-effect of eating beans. These sugars get in the intestines where bacteria eat them and produce gas.

Bean dish of the moment
I always thought it was fun having different beans in one dish; the tricky part is that most beans have slightly different cooking times, so to keep the texture of the beans ideal I have been cooking them in multiple pots, in addition to simply roasting edamame in a skillet. The following recipe should be an inspirational guideline—feel free to try out a variety of beans for different flavor and texture combinations.

bean stew

Three Bean & Kale Stew
(recipe yields 4 entrée portions)
2 cups dry kidney beans
2 cups dry cranberry beans
1 sheet, approximately 5"x5" kombu seaweed
1 teaspoon paprika powder
1 teaspoon coriander
1 teaspoon cumin
1 teaspoon sea salt
2 tablespoons maple syrup
2 tablespoons vinegar, such as apple cider, brown rice or plum vinegar

2 cups frozen edamame beans, shelled
1 bunch kale, thick stems removed, chopped into 1” pieces and rinsed
1 tablespoon vegetable oil, such as sunflower seed or grapeseed oil
Salt

Black pepper from the mill
Extra virgin olive oil

1) Cook each bean variety in its own pot. Add paprika, coriander, cumin, kombu and water.
2) Once the beans are soft, season with salt, vinegar, and maple syrup. Move beans to the side of the stove and steep for 20 minutes.
3) Heat a skillet on high heat, add edamame into the dry skillet and cook for one minute, then add oil, garlic and kale. Continue to cook for 5 minutes longer, then season with salt and pepper to taste.
4) Strain beans through a colander, reserving the cooking liquid.
5) In a pot combine beans and edamame/kale mix, then season with olive oil. Add bean cooking liquid in small amounts to the mixture so it matches your desired texture. Add more liquid if you like a soupy texture, less if you prefer it to be more of a stew.

Chef’s Note: The bean dish is totally satisfying on its own, but if you like it to be more substantial try it with roasted meat or fish dishes.

 

NOTHING BUT THE BUTT - the blog

Growing up in Austria I had my fair share of deliciously cooked pork on the dinner table. Later in cooking school that did not change and I ate pork nearly as much, since it was the chicken breast of those days. I had cooked an endless amount of roasted pork any way you slice it, from loin, pork filet, belly or Schweinsbauch—this is what its called in Germanic speaking countries. In restaurants I often cooked mild-flavored suckling pigs and also huge whole hogs, which were carried in front of the guest to be carved. I still remember the pork roast flavor—it reminds me of a barnyard with its gamey quality—truly delicious. For some reason as the years went by pork fell off the consumers’ palate—perhaps it had to do with a highly competitive pork market that was focused on volume vs. quality.

Pork these days
Fast forward to today. The goal was to get a delicious, fall-apart-in-your-mouth textured picnic roast, aka butt roast, which is a part from the shoulder and commonly used for pulled-pork types of recipes. My standard for this type of roast is a deep, satisfying, sweet-roasted flavor.

Pork roast cooking

First of all, in my experience pork these days benefits from salt brining, which gives it its basic flavor from within and helps with locking in moisture.

picnic roast aka butt roast from the pig shoulder

 

Brining: I tested various brining techniques from 2 weeks to 10 hours. I’ll keep it simple for the sake of length for this blog post. It depends on whether you want a more boiled ham type of texture and flavor or a roasted type is desired. The best results for my fall-apart pork roast was a 16-hour brine of salt, water, bay leaves and vanilla. In my opinion, vanilla underlines the roasted pork flavor notes in a delicate but seductive way. Now let's go to the cooking part. I performed several contemporary, low temperature methods such as sous vide, which instructs us to cook the pork for +/- 11 hours at 150 degrees Fahrenheit in a tightly sealed bag. I cooked it in an oversized Ziploc-type bag. I seasoned it with a few aromatics such as garlic, thyme, salt and pepper. This led me to a similar, moist-cooking method called CVap cooking. In short it's all about cooking meat in a specialized equipment chamber overnight under a combination of adjustable roast/steam settings—definitely a restaurant cooking style. It was delicious but was missing that addictive roasted pork flavor. Yep! I was dwelling and longing for those taste memories from Austria.

pork shoulder roast over vegetables

The next step was roasting at various oven temperature settings and internal meat temperature doneness. Eventually I hit the note and ended up with pork that was roasted at 300 degrees Fahrenheit for 5–6 hours (depends on the weight/size of the pork) in an heat-proof type of vessel such as a pot.

The vessel was large enough that the meat did not touch the walls or lid that kept the pork roast moist. Also, my pork had a thick layer of fat on one of its sides, which I put facing down in the cooking vessel on top of chopped onions, celery and carrots. I cooked the meat to an internal temperature of 200 degrees Fahrenheit. Furthermore, the meat was rested in that roasting pot for one hour after cooking. I kept it in a warm place close to the stove, which gave it a meltingly soft texture. 

Pork brine
(recipe for a 5–6 pound pork butt)
3 bay leaves + 1 cup water
8 cups cold water
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1/4 cup Kosher salt

1) Combine bay leaves and the 1 cup of water in a small pot and bring to a boil, then steep the mixture for 5 minutes on the side of the stove.
2) Combine bay leaf water, the 8 cups of water, vanilla and salt and mix with a whisk.
3) Put meat into a large enough container and cover with brine liquid. The meat should be immersed in the brine—if not, make more brine.
4) Brine meat for 16 hours.

Pork roasting steps
(recipe for a raw 6—7 pound pork shoulder/picnic roast)
- brine pork for 16 hours
- season roast with 1 teaspoon per pound of meat of Kosher salt
- chop 1 carrot and 1 onion and distribute in the bottom of the cooking vessel
- put roast fat-side facing down into the cooking vessel, cover with a lid
- roast pork at 300F oven temperature
- the internal meat temperature should reach 200 degrees Fahrenheit, after 5–6 hour cook time (it depends on the size of the roast)
- let the roast rest for 1 hour on the side of the stove covered with a lid or with aluminum foil 

Chef’s note: I prefer to pick a pork shoulder from a farm that applies humane practices and does not administer antibiotics. A diversified natural pig diet makes a great flavored pork roast—especially if it incorporates squash since that imparts a sought-after flavor profile.

 

 

TURNIP THE VOLUME – the blog

I tasted small snips of large local turnips at my local Farmers Market over the weekend. They were purpleish and white in color and they still had the green tops attached. The natural spiciness and crunch took me by surprise and seriously had me turnip the creative volume in my mind.

purpleish turnips

I had expect a vegetarian friend visiting me from out of town and wanted to prepare a locally grown and seasonal vegetable. I knew she'd appreciate it. I knew those turnips were perfect for the occasion. To make the meal more substantial I planned to prepare them with a grain or some sort of seed for a delicious meal.

I still remember when I was a child our mother had prepared white turnips finely chopped and over buttered crusty rye bread. It was sprinkled with sea salt and a healthy dose of black pepper to enhance that natural spiciness.

roasted turnips over beluga lentils

Turnip cooking
I had cooked turnips before and, to be totally honest, they didn’t blow me away. But this time around I was more than a happy camper with the result—here’s how I did it.

The average sized turnip has a diameter of about 3 inches, so I decided to peel the turnips and slice them into mouth-sized wedges. The turnips were simply seasoned with sea salt and extra virgin olive oil, then tossed in a bowl. I made sure that they were evenly distributed over my cookie sheet pan before they went into the 450-degree Fahrenheit hot oven.

It took 35 minutes to get them to the point where they had brown-charred edges and tender to the bite. They tasted savory and sweet—if there was vegetable candy, then there it is.

That night I served the roasted turnips on a bed of slowly simmered French lentils prepared and cooked with tiny cubes of celery, onions, garlic and the turnip greens. The dish had simple ingredients but was a revelation for our taste buds. It still strikes me how good vegetables when they were harvested within the past 24 hours or so.

….more turnip serving suggestions:
The roasted preparation above works for cold and warm applications in a seasonal salad. The next time I'll prepare it with chopped kale, or a bitter green like dandelions or escarole. The seasoning can be kept fairly basic—I recommend EVOO, salt, pepper from the mill and a squeeze of fresh lemon. Also, you can serve turnips as a side dish next to roasted fish such as striped bass or grilled salmon, and last but not least along a satisfying grilled steak or a beef stew.

 

SPICE TOUR - the blog

For the last few months I have been re-discovering interesting spice mixes and making them an integral part of every other recipe I have been cooking. Currently, a limited amount of seasonal herbs and vegetables are locally available, hence it makes particular sense to dive into the spice jars. It certainly adds an interesting component to fall and winter dishes.

spice paradise - Atlantic Ave., Brooklyn

Spices are essential to many cuisines around the world. Until recently I used to be a firm believer in making my own spice mixes. I have changed my opinion since I discovered a local spice shop that I had forgotten about. That spice store does an excellent job in grounding and mixing vibrant spices to order on request. Bringing spice blends into your own kitchen can lend authenticity to international dishes and provide creative inspiration for your everyday cooking. It's a little like traveling the globe but no passport required!

Got Spice? I have the answer Kalustyan's in NYC

You'll be amazed at the selection of spice blends available. Additionally, the same spice mixtures may differ from store to store since many use their own recipes. I highly suggest shopping for small amounts of spices as they are the most pungent and say goodbye to that spice box of curry you might have had in the kitchen cabinet for the last three years—its flavor will most likely be flat and the potency of it long gone.

The following are some spice mixes that I have been applying to recipes:
Ras el Hanout - A blend of spices used in northern African cooking, especially Morocco: lavender, rose hips....
Use for roasted squash, carrots, sweet potatoes, and heart-warming beef stews.
African Berbere spice - A heady combination of spicy, bitter, and sweet spices commonly used in Somalia, Eritrea, Djibouti, and Ethiopia.
Use for goat and game meats such as deer, and to spice up grain and seed dishes, e.g. rice, beans and quinoa.
Dukkah - An Egyptian mix of toasted nuts and seeds like sesame seeds, coriander, cumin and nuts like hazelnuts.
Use for braised cabbage, sautéed Brussels sprouts and rice dishes.
Harissa - Made from smoked red peppers and often featured in Tunisian and other North African cuisines.
Serve on the side of cous cous dishes such as tagines prepared with vegetables, lamb or beef.
Chinese Five Spice - A pungent mix that gives dishes a balanced hit of savory, bitter, sweet and sour.
Use for duck, sea scallops, shrimp, and to spice up liver dishes.
Japanese Gomasio - A basic spice mix of toasted sesame seeds tossed with coarse salt. Serve it as a table condiment. It's tasty to use in rice dishes and I love to use it on quick sautéed dishes such as bok choy, kale, Swiss chard or mustard greens.
Togarashi - A Japanese condiment similar to gomasio but more flavorful. Commonly made out of a mixture of seven spices including citrus peel, sesame seeds, chili peppers and seaweed.
Khmeli Suneli - A Georgian mix of heartwarming nutty and bitter spices often made with fenugreek, coriander, savory, and black peppercorns.
Quatre Epices - The French expression for "four spices." The base for it is ground pepper, cloves, nutmeg, and ginger. I use it for sautéed scallops and back in the day when it was popular for duck and goose liver preparations.
Indian Chaat Masala - A tangy spice mix made with dried mango. Try with fried or mashed potatoes.
Curry Powder - Apparently Indian-inspired, but actually invented by British folks. Often the base includes turmeric, coriander, cumin, ginger, and pepper.
Garam Masala - Garam means warm or hot, and the mix usually contains exotic spices like cinnamon and cardamom.
Panch Phoron - A Bengali five-spice blend of mustard (black), whole fenugreek, nigella, cumin, and fennel seeds.
Jamaican Jerk Spice - A spicy Caribbean mixture including pepper (red and black), allspice, cinnamon, and thyme.
Adobo - An all-purpose seasoning that contains garlic, oregano, pepper, and other spices. Used in Mexican and other Latin American cuisines.
Za'atar - A fragrant concoction of thyme, sesame seeds, and exotic sumac from the Middle East.
Advieh - A Persian mix of dried rose petals and spices like cloves, cinnamon, cardamom, nutmeg, and cumin. It is often used in rice and hearty meat stews.
Baharat - A passionately used Middle Eastern, all-purpose seasoning. It commonly includes black pepper, cumin, cloves, and cinnamon.
 

 spices....

...and last but not least we have our own spice mixes in the US...

Dry Rub - From Kansas City, a sweet and smoky tasting barbecue rub. A mixture of brown sugar, cinnamon, paprika, and other spices.
Pickling Spice - It lends complex flavor to preserved fruits and vegetables and at its simplest contains bay leaves, mustard seeds, and peppercorns.
Apple Cider Spice or Pumpkin Pie Spice - Made with warming spices like cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, and cloves. An eye opener with roasted fall squashes, or sprinkle a pinch into hearty root vegetable soups as a finishing step.

 

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 [PKN1]I’m not sure what you’re trying to say here… Pungent? 

THE PERFECT TURKEY - the blog

We're about a month away from the Thanksgiving holiday, so it's time to start getting the ducks lined up for the turkey dinner! When it comes to that holiday, some of us are faced with making a perfect turkey, and the stacks are high usually. There is a good chance that many of us cook for a crowd, so the pressure is on. The home cook is faced with a dilemma, since turkeys are clumsy to cook due to their sheer size, but with patience and a few tricks a delicious turkey can be archived in a few steps.

For my part I have been cooking turkey a lot already, and this year I found yet another perfect way to roast a bird. As always, the goal is to impart more tastiness into the bird and have it merge with the cooking process into an amazing, flavorful result. It is known that turkey needs some help in that department, since its plain flavor profile leaves much to be desired. It never ceases to amaze me how many ways I am able to find to cook a turkey on the internet--needless to say we people have something in common, since many of us are clearly obsessed with cooking turkey! The big question is: which instruction or recipe really works, though?

Whole roasted turkey, legs cut off 

Got to love turkey!
During my turkey testing over the past months, I went somewhat involuntarily along the long route and ended up with an endless number of variations when it comes to brining, adding spices, cooking, herb crusting and other methods. During this process I realized clear differences and came to some conclusions. It’s a good thing I like turkey…

Brining
At this point, I'm a firm believer in salt water brining a turkey before cooking. I tried the salt seasoning method, which is simply rubbing a good amount of salt on the outside of the turkey. In my case it did not penetrate enough and actually lead to a salty-skinned turkey. Another not-worth-the-extra-step method to impart flavor was to brine the turkey with liquids with different ratios of spices, vinegar, natural sweeteners, salt and water. It actually denaturated the turkey flavor and did not move the needle considerably in the flavor department in comparison to a simple salt brine. Conclusion: brine it is!

Spice rub
I'm a big fan of rubbing spices under the skin of the raw turkey before roasting, and it proved to be a big success on many occasions. The perfect flavor experience was a layer of crispy skin above, with spice-coated juicy turkey meat. It has its place in my blue ribbon turkey cooking methods.

Inside-out pasting
Originally, I thought the extra step of injecting flavor was not necessary, but it proved to be successful. To inject flavor and butter certainly made a tasty difference. I see it as an inside-out pasting. The toy of choice for injecting a spice solution is an injector, which is a syringe-type instrument with a thick needle. It’s money well spent, as it lets you inject extra flavor into the turkey before roasting.

Slow roasting
I reached the best results by roasting slowly to get the turkey to the point of doneness. I cook turkey at a temperature of 350 degrees Fahrenheit and my preferred internal temperature is 150 degrees Fahrenheit. The FDA suggests cooking a turkey to 165 degrees Fahrenheit. It makes a rather dry turkey, though. I never cook my turkeys to more than 150 degrees Fahrenheit, and then I let it rest on the kitchen counter for 30 minutes. The carryover heat from the oven and the prolonged resting time will kill potential pathogens and make it safe for eating. We cooks call that process time pasteurization vs. temperature pasteurization. My cook time in my convection oven is in the 3 to 3-1/2 hour range. The best way is to start temping the turkey after 2-3/4 hours and every 15 minutes thereafter. The final internal temperature should show 150 degrees Fahrenheit, and then the turkey should be rested for 30 minutes on the kitchen counter loosely covered with aluminum foil.

Whole roasted turkey

Whole turkey roasting?
To make sure that your turkey is evenly cooked in terms of the legs and the breast, I actually prefer to cut the turkey legs off. Roasting the breast on the turkey's rib cage with the cut-off legs alongside it never disappointed me. If you like your turkey to be roasted whole, you can do that too. It’s a matter of preference: perfect moisture vs. the whole beast look.

 

The following steps below will guide you through my perfect recipe for this year’s Thanksgiving holiday.

Keep in mind the turkey cooking process will take approximately 4-1/2 hours.

This Year’s Perfect Turkey
(all steps are for a 16-18 pound turkey)

1st step: Brine
1/2 cup sea salt, such as Baline
1 gallon cold water

1) Combine salt and water and mix with a whisk to dissolve the salt.
2) Place turkey in a large enough container and pour salt/water mix over the turkey. Brine turkey for 24 hours in the refrigerator.

 

Chef’s Tip: In case you’re working with a smaller container, turn the turkey upside town so the legs and breast are totally submerged in the brine.

2nd step: Spice Rub
3 bay leaves, crumbled between fingers
1 teaspoon coriander powder
1 teaspoon celery seeds
1 teaspoon sweet paprika powder
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon powder
20 grindings black pepper from a mill
4 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped finely
1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil

1) In a small bowl combine all ingredients and mix with a table fork to a paste.
2) Place turkey into a roasting pan. With your fingers, separate the space between the skin and the meat. It should be done carefully so as to not tear the skin.

3) Evenly distribute the spice mixture on the turkey breast and legs under the skin.

Chef's Note: Keep one tablespoon of the spice rub mixture for the pump solution.

Chef's Tip: Before I rub the spices under the skin I prefer to cut the legs off. In my opinion it makes a moister, more evenly cooked turkey.

3rd step: Inside-Out Pasting
1 cup apple cider vinegar
1 cup maple syrup
1 tablespoon of the spice rub (above recipe)
4 oz butter, cold

1) In a small sauce pot bring the vinegar and maple syrup to boil. On medium heat reduce liquid by 50% so it will yield 1 cup.
2) In a pot bring 1/4 cup of water and the spice mix to a boil on high heat. Move the pot to the side of the stove and let steep for 15 minutes.
3) Strain spice mix/water through a fine mesh sieve into the reduced vinegar/maple syrup mixture.
4) With a whisk incorporate the butter into the warm vinegar/maple/spice mix. Cool mixture on the kitchen counter.
5) Fill the injector syringe with the solution. Insert the tip of the injector pin about halfway into the turkey breast and legs and gently pump the solution into the turkey. It should be done in an even pattern all over the breast and legs. Use every drop of the solution.

4th step: Slow Roasting
1) Place turkey into a cold oven and set temperature to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.
2) Cook turkey for 2-3/4 hours, then check with a kitchen thermometer at the thickest part of the breast, which is about 5-inches up from the bottom of the roasting pan at the turkey's breast. Cook turkey until the internal temperature reads 150 degrees Fahrenheit.
3) Let turkey rest for 30 minutes.

Bonus step between step 3 and 4: Crusting the turkey
Go the extra mile by giving the turkey a honey/mustard herb crust.
Once the turkey has reached 140 degrees Fahrenheit, coat the turkey with the following mixture:

2 tablespoons grainy mustard
2 tablespoons honey
1 teaspoon fresh rosemary, chopped
2 teaspoons fresh sage, chopped
1 cup panko bread crumbs

1) In a small bowl combine mustard, honey and herbs with a table fork.
2) With a brush, evenly coat the turkey legs and breast with the mustard mixture.
3) Press panko bread crumbs onto the turkey breast and legs gently.
4) Continue to cook until the thermometer shows 150 degrees Fahrenheit.

HOT & SEASONAL - the blog

If I think about the popularity of vegetables Brussels sprouts are for sure the most asked for vegetable of the year in my field. Especially now when the autumn season has arrived in the North East the peak of the Brussels season last from late September to mid November. Last week I "harvested" the first stalk of Brussels sprouts at my local farmers market. The little button-looking sprouts were about an inch small. Biting in one of those proved to have mild cabbage flavor. Remembering prior years of successful preparation I suggest to roast Brussels sprouts. Indeed it makes them utterly satisfying.

Brussels on the stalk

Sprout roasting
Usually I simple cut them of the center stalk then halve them. I roast them on medium heat setting, this way they become golden-brown colored and tasty. The other day I still had preserved lemon in my refrigerator that I made many weeks ago for some other cooking project. They were citrusy and had an enjoyable level of salt. I chopped the lemon finely and tossed into the Brussels just before plating Some Tabasco spiced cashews sprinkled over the dish added a welcome buttery/spicy quality.

pan roasted Brussels sprouts

Roasted Brussels with Spicy Cashews
(recipe for 4 servings)
2 pounds Brussels sprouts.
2 tablespoons vegetable oil such as grape-seeds or canola
1/2 teaspoon sea salt and more to taste
5 grinding black pepper from the mill
1 lemon, juiced freshly

1) If the Brussels sprouts have woodsy stalks cut 1/8 of the bottom off and then lengthwise in half. Remove any yellow leafs.
2) On medium heat setting, in vegetable oil cook Brussels in a 9-inch skillet. Add salt then cook for 15 minutes stirring every minute to prevent scorching. Look for evenly browned Brussels. Add pepper and season with salt to taste.

Spiced Cashews
(recipe makes 1 cup)
1 tablespoon maple syrup
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
1/2 teaspoon Tabasco
Pinch cayenne

1) Heat skillet on medium heat setting. I suggest to use small nonstick skilled for that. Add maple syrup and spices and bring boil then add cashew and toss. Cook mixture for 1-2 minutes. Cashews should be coated with spices and dark-brown if not add 1 tablespoon of water and cook for another minute. Stir mixture constantly with a wooden spoon to prevent scorching.
3) Transfer mixture to a greased plate. Once cooled sprinkle cashews over the roasted Brussels.

Chefs Note: You can buy preserved lemons in Middle Eastern type of stores or online here.

 

ARE THESE ROSES I’M EATING? - the blog

This is the time of the year when I stroll through a farmer’s market and get super excited about one fruit in particular. That fruit reminds me of the seductive aroma of roses. Can you guess the fruit – are you ready for a little food trivia?

quince on the tree

Irresistible & tender
The fruit is yellow when ripe and is the size of a small apple. It can't compete much in a beauty contest since the surface is not that smooth, but if you put your nose to it an amazing floral scent will tickle your nostrils. Actually, it’s botanically related to the rose family, and in the same token that makes it related to apples and pears. The taste of it will remind you of these when it is cooked. In fact, it has an astringent flavor profile in its raw state and is not enjoyable. It's said that it was the famed fruit that Adam and Eve bit into instead of an apple.

quince compote

Enough with the story telling. You might have solved the riddle by now. 

Ta-da
I'm writing about quince! The quince is one of those fruits that stresses a cook’s brain cells more than a little bit. In order to bring the raw fruit’s seductive rose scent to a dinner’s plate, it needs to be cooked. After some time in a flavorful broth, its yellow color becomes a feminine pink with a tender texture. Its high natural pectin content makes it ideal for preserving. It can also be crushed with a table fork or simply put in a food processor, which makes it spreadable on breakfast toast. To me it has a delectable mouth-feel that can be described as soft with a gentle texture. Cooked wedges of quince are also terrific grilled. My favorite combinations to serving them with are venison or pork.

Let’s cook quince
When it’s available at your local food market, I encourage you to look out for quince and pick a few pieces up. Follow this simple cooking method below to make your quinces shine.

Poached Quince
(recipe for 4 pieces quince)
4 quinces
3 cups water
1 cup agave
1 tablespoon honey
1 stick cinnamon or 1/4 teaspoon powder
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
Pinch of clove powder, optional
1/2 vanilla bean (see chef's tip below)
10 grindings black pepper from a mill
1/4 teaspoon sea salt

1) Peel quinces with a vegetable peeler and cut into four wedges. Remove the cores with a small paring knife.
2) Combine quince and all other ingredients in a gallon-sized pot.
3) On high heat bring mixture to a boil then lower to a simmer and cook for 60 minutes. At this point the quinces should be soft when pierced with a knife – if not, cook another 20 minutes.

Chef's tip: I recommend using intensely flavorful vanilla bean in this recipe instead of vanilla extract; it will make the quince particularly enjoyable. I suggest to do the following: With a small knife cut the vanilla bean lengthwise, open, then scrape out the small black seeds with the back of the knife. Cook vanilla seeds and the scraped vanilla pod in the cooking liquid. Store the leftover piece of vanilla bean in saran wrap in the freezer.

Chef's note: Poaching describes the cooking process where liquid stays just under the boiling point. It retains the natural identity of the item being poached. If you own a cooking thermometer, use it during the poaching process to keep the liquid around 190 degrees Fahrenheit. To me, that's the ideal poaching temperature for quince.

 

EVERYBODY LIKES A PARTY - the blog

The mild autumn temperature has been perfect for strolling in the city. In fact, schlepping around in a relaxed state of mind in the Big Apple makes me appreciate NYC more. In addition, with the early evening sunsets this time of the year, it throws intense, picturesque light and shade against the sky-high buildings.

When in Rome
Recently, on one of our Sunday night strolls, we ended up in the middle of Little Italy. Little Italy is home to anything Italian, e.g., pizza joints, Ferrara—a place that is famous for their desserts and sweets—a plenitude of touristy restaurants and souvenir shops like the Christmas New York shop, which offers a year-round collection of Christmas-themed objects, which feels a little odd this time of the year. What kept us in Little Italy was the annual San Gennaro festival.

San Gennaro festival in Little Italy

An immense number of people had fun at game booths that incorporated water-aiming games, BB guns and dart arrows. Often, a few lucky folks walk away with an oversized stuffed toy

Shoot me a monkey!

Alcohol is plentifully available. It’s a folks’ feast and the atmosphere invites munching on alarming fare—there were oversized hero sandwiches with plump sausages, fried Zeppoles, funnel cakes, white nougat candy with nuts in it that is broken off with an ice pick right in front of our eyes, cream-stuffed cannolis, and the obligatory gelato in all kinds of colors and flavors. 

Gelato!

Most of the food was perfect for a drinking night out where all self-control has gone downhill already. To me, the indulgent tip of the iceberg was the fried Oreo cookies. Yes, that’s the famed Oreo cookie dipped into batter and then deep fried.

Fried Oreos!

It’s almost as indulgent as the batter-dipped and fried stick of butter I encountered here last year. Anyway, please enjoy! After all, the over-excessive fair occurs only once a year. For my friends and I, we went for raw clams, corn on the cob with butter, and roasted meats on sword-like skewers.

Meat skewered on spears

Everything was delicious. So much so that, we didn’t even go on a guilt trip from all that hideous, vein-clogging cookery. In all disclosure, we also shared an Italian sausage that was divine. Perhaps you know that saying, “When in Rome…”

Sausage party

Actually, we liked the sausage so much that I picked up some Italian sausages from the local butcher and cooked them at home. I wanted to keep it simple and went with the Gennaro festival version. Here is the recipe:

Italian Sausage Feast
(recipe makes four portions)

4 Italian sausages
1 tablespoon vegetable oil, such as grapeseed or canola
1 green paprika (pepper), seeds removed and sliced
1 onion, peeled and sliced thinly
2 coves garlic, peeled and chopped
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon Hungarian paprika powder
10 grindings of black pepper from the mill

1. Heat a skillet on medium heat. Add oil and sausages. Cook sausages for 4 minutes, then turn sausages over and cook for 6 more minutes.
2. Add prepped onions, peppers, garlic and season with salt, pepper and paprika. Cook vegetables for 10 minutes.

Chef’s Note: Cooking the sausage with the rest of the ingredients assures a lip-smacking dish. The next time I make it I’m going to add bite-sized pieces of cooked potatoes.

 

 

 

LOVE SOME SALTY ALMONDS? - the blog

I have been munching on rich and salty nut snacks lately. Roasted almonds with a sprinkle of salt, ground up and smeared on a sprouted English muffin make a satisfying breakfast—especially if you’re like me and hooked on PBJ, which usually sends me into a sugar overload. Also, a tablespoon of almond butter does the trick for me when I'm really hungry in the evening. Following is a simple recipe.

house-made almond butter

Salted Almond Butter
(recipe makes 1 cup)
2 cups almonds or 10 ounces
1/4 teaspoon sea salt

1) Preheat the oven to 350 F.
2) Distribute almonds evenly over a cookie sheet pan and roast for 8 minutes in the oven. Shake pan back and forth to flip the nuts and roast for 5 more minutes. Almonds should be brown and have a toasty smell.
3) Cool nuts on the kitchen counter for 10 minutes, then chill in the refrigerator for 30 minutes.
4) In a kitchen processor combine cold nuts and salt. With the pulse button process mixture for 1 minute. If you don't have a pulse button on your kitchen processor turn the motor off and on in 10 second intervals. The pulsing makes the desired granular texture. If it's still too chunky for you pulse mixture for 30 seconds longer.

 

Chef's Tip: If you like a tad of sweetness in your almond butter add 1 tablespoon agave.

...also...
Roasted almonds seasoned with tamari are an awesome snack. I used to buy them in bulk by the pound at the health food store. They're kind of expensive so I started roasting them myself, which is an easy task so long you have an oven.

It doesn’t make much sense to me to roast less then a pound of nuts at the time. I have been storing them for several weeks at room temperature without any issues.  I just put the almonds in an airtight container.

tamari almonds

Tamari Roasted Almonds
(recipe makes 4 cups)
1 pound skin-on whole almonds
1/8 cup tamari sauce
2 tablespoons agave

1) Preheat the oven to 350 F.
2) Distribute almonds evenly over a cookie sheet pan and roast for 8 minutes in the oven.
3) Shake pan back and forth to flip the nuts and roast for 5 more minutes. Almonds should be brown-and have a toasty smell.
4) In a bowl combine the hot almonds, tamari sauce and agave. Toss mixture and distribute over the cookie sheet pan.
5) With a kitchen spoon stir nuts and roast for 5 more minutes. With a knife cut one almond in half—it should show a brown, roasted inside. If not, roast nuts for 3 minutes longer.

Chef's Note: Tamari sauce is similar to soy sauce but without gluten.